What is internal and external biwire?

What's the difference between an internal biwire and and external biwire? What are the advantages of one compared to the other? I just bought Paradigm Studio 100s, a Bryston 4BST, and am shopping for my first set of biwires. So far I am thinking DH Labs Q10 or Kimber 8TC......... any thoughts?
Zu Cable www.zucable.com Julians in a "shotgun style" bi-wire are better in my tests than the Q10. The Shotgun style is basically a double run of cable terminated together on the AMP end. Please note that the guys at Zu had previous work at many of the big name companies. They have a quality product and great customer service. Check out the auctions here and at ebay, they often have cables up at a good discount. maybe you can find the WAX (their hi-end) in a bi-wire, in your price range.
As already stated, the "shotgun" bi-wire pattern has two completely separate runs of wire that are joined together at the amplifier end -- think of it like a giant "V". The internal bi-wire involves using a single run of wire (usually braided) and separating the braids or wires into two terminations at both the amp and speaker ends.

Richard Vandersteen, in an interview with one of the major audio mags, talked about his research into the merits of bi-wiring (recommended for the Vandy 3A and Model 5 speakers), and stated that the primary benefit of using a true (shotgun) bi-wire is to minimize the effects of interplay between the electrical fields in the two sets of wires. Apparently, this ensures that the mid/high frequency drivers get a clean signal that is "uncontaminated" by interaction with the low frequency signal. Vandersteen also said that speakers with dual crossovers/speaker posts will benefit the most from shotgun bi-wiring.
Jhiminsue - you can try out the Wax wires for 30 days which is a nice option but you'll have to get the boys @ Zu to make the leads longer than their stock version for your 4B-ST if you are going to use their copper spades. You can't hook both the terminations into the binding posts at the same time when using the spades. They can also supply WBT connectors which is what I ended up using. As we both own the same amp you'll understand where I'm coming from. The Wax wires are very good at what one can typically buy them at here at auction but were bettered by my reference cables - still an excellent cable and I can attest that the boys @ Zu are great to work with.
I was going to edit my post above to include some more info, but will include the comments here:

I have used Kimber 8TC wire in a shotgun bi-wire configuration for the past 5 years, and just recently changed my speaker wire for a different brand/model. I think Kimber 8TC is one of the best values in high-end speaker cable. You can use Kimber 8TC to make an internal bi-wire setup, but I do not recommend it, since you will lose the primary advantage of bi-wiring. An alternative is to use the 8TC for the bass/low frequency leg of the bi-wire, and Kimber 4TC for the mid/high frequency leg. This makes an excellent bi-wire combo, and will also save you some money.

Before you make a final decision about the Kimber 8TC, may I suggest that you also consider Alpha-Core Goertz speaker cable? Allthough the Goertz MI2 cable is a bulkier cable than the 8TC, it has some technical advantages over the 8TC, and is actually a bit cheaper and may be a better "fit" with certain low-impedance speakers. For more info about Alpah-Core's Goertz cable, go to their Web site at: http://www.alphacore.com/
A written description of the difference between internal and external biwiring can be very confusing. But to visualize, the external method just means that there are four separate wires going to four separate terminals on each speaker, and of course they come together as a pair at the amp end.

Internal bi-wire has the usual two wires going to each speaker, but with four leads at the speaker end for bi-wire hookup. The internal type is just used for the sake of better appearance, ie it eliminates two wires to each speaker.

But as Scott above notes, R. Vandersteen does not consider internal bi-wiring as beneficial as true (4 wires per speaker) external bi-wiring. If you really want to get confused, look up some of the archived posts on this subject. Good Luck. Craig
I just went back to single wired with a high quality spk cable and ain't looking back. My speakers use two separate X/O boards and are bi-ampable but have found using a much higher quality spk cable is blowing and I say Blowing away all that lessor quality cable above. I tried it all. In all configurations. Like Craig says, double runs of lessor cable is better if your spks are truly doubled boared like Scott points out. But I would recomment trying a top quality speaker cable single wired putting the Red on top and the White on the bottom with the jumpers. Go try a high qulity single wire. All this cable is system dependent but I'm finding the Kimber Select KS-3035 to be just super superior to all that cable above and many more above all the cable mentioned. Not in a subtle way either. Go try one of those crazy priced cables that matches your system. Believe me guys, you will totally rethink cable, or call it super cable (that is what I will call it,, I call it super Cable). 8TC, Q10, Zucable its all very very flawed once you get to hear what a cable can really let thru. Once you experience it, you will never be satisfied with this low quality cable anymore. You may still never buy the good cable cause either you can't afford it or just plain refuse to pay the price of admission, but you will NEVER denie the fact that it is just superior. Craig I know your system, go try and demo the KS-3035 or other high priced cable that matches. You will end up buying it for sure. Its not just cable, its a component just as important as your amp or preamp. Now that is a big statement to make about cable. You too Scott, lose the 8TC and go try some KS-3035. Me, I'm deathly afraid to try the 3038. I won't try it. Its too expensive but if it out performs the 3035, I will end up not happy with the 3035 and right now my speakers are just jamming like they never had. My feet are constantly tapping and I don't even think about the components. Thats when you know your on to something. When you can just dig the music and feel like constantly danceing or tapping on something and don't even think of your components. That is what this cable has done. Not in a small way either. A SF Line 3 with all the good old Tubes and a Classe ca-300 SS amp and Aerial 10Ts with the KS-3035 and KS-1120 ic and All silver 20FT bal ic from pre to amp with short 5ft KS-3035 and any source being used is just fantastic sounding, from a Sony 7700 DVD to a cheap RCA Sat receiver to a 14K retail SF T3 CD TT and SF Dac 3. All the sources are sounding equally as good. The KS-3035 topped it all off in a BIG BIG way. Craig, you have to try it. I know your system and can tell you that it will work in spades for you. Use the all silver 1131 or 1130 and the KS-3035. If you feel real adventureous and have cash to burn, by all means try the 3038. It makes you want to dance all the time. Not just glued to the chair. It makes the music fun again. All that cheaper cable is nothing at all compared to this. 50% better easily. Its worth the money if you have equipment like yours Craig and also your system Scott. Mike
Thanks guys. Great info. I think I'll start with some entry level cables. I enjoy noticing each improvement as I work my way up. Someday I'll have a mega-system as each improvement just seems to make you want more. Are Mit cables any good?