Weight, Clamp or stabilizer?


I have a vintage Pioneer PL-560 Direct-Drive Automatic Turntable purchased around 1980. 
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/pioneer/pl-560.shtml
I'm trying to get it to produce the best sound its capable of.  I plan to order a set of SVS subwoofer feet to replace the worn feet (I have an SVS subwoofer and removed its feet and temporarily placed them on the TT base with good results).  I read an article about TT tweaks.  A few things they suggested were an upgraded mat, clamp and isolation feet.  Thing is since the TT is a direct drive I don't know how much extra weight it can take (if any), and the spindle is about 7/8 inches tall so I don't know if that's enough for a clamp.  The original rubber mat it came with is in great shape. Do I need to replace it, too? I'm willing to invest in tweaks to improve this turntable, but not interested in replacing it.
mewsickbuff

Showing 8 responses by elliottbnewcombjr

Clamps are smart but minor.

Someone suggested a new cartridge, what cartridge are you using now? Who set it up?

Arm and Cartridge Setup make the MOST difference, for any tt, any arm, any cartridge. Check/adjust your existing cartridge or a new one. Set up wrong, a million dollar cartridge will sound worse than a proper setup inexpensive one.

It is very wise to acquire PATIENCE, needed tools and learn these skills yourself.
a wordy link I quickly found, members can give us their favorite links

http://www.audiophilia.com/reviews/2016/1/17/a-beginners-guide-to-cartridge-setup 

First, no tracking force, no anti-skating, cartridge and stylus installed essentially where it will be, front to back in the headshell most important to begin and move the main weight to 'float' the arm parallel to the platter. Set tracking force 'guide' to zero now.

Arm height effects stylus angle into the groove viewed from the side when the cartridge is in playing position. The diamond wants to be perpendicular to the platter, to enter the groove at 90 degrees, like the cutter blade did. And proper lift/drop must work. 

All other cartridge alignments must be correct to 'float' in the groove, ready to properly receive the vertical and lateral vibrations. Tracking force, light enough for the specific stylus cantilever proper movement, less wear on records and stylus, but strong enough to stay in the groove.

Finally anti-skate to counteract the inward pull of the arm which is relative to tracking force 'when the platter is spinning', no anti-skate exists when setting up.

Moving the cartridge forward or backward as you use the alignment gauge effects tonearm balance, so after getting it refined, double check your zero arm float and re-check your height/stylus tip 90 degrees.

Thru the arc, from outer groove to inner groove, the cartridge body/stylus will only be perfectly aligned with the groove in two positions, (cutter is horizontal tracking, always aligned with the groove. Horizontal tracking tt arms were popular due to this, but ...

the alignment gauges show the two locations within the arc, and have parallel lines as aids. It is not just left or right, because forward/backward in the head shell effect results within the arc. And, moving cartridge forward/back changes arm balance. Reset zero downward force indicator when arm floats.

A thin flat mirror, under the stylus, viewed from the front, will help show misalignment, as any slight divergence will be reflected in an opposite direction, easier to see, easier to get it right.

The most miserable part is if you need tiny shims between the head shell and the top of one side of the cartridge body. Patience, no audience, new curse words will come from your sub-conscious mind. I use tiny dabs of soft tacky stuff to hold nuts in position in the head shell so I can get the screws started.

Stylus gauge for actual tracking force, alignment templates are precise. Set tracking force with zero anti-skating.

Anti-skating, LAST, is often just a mark on a dial, your ears must help it's final adjustment. Make the indicated adjustment, then simply listen: more or less anti-skate will move the stylus against one groove wall, or 'float' in the center. Adjust/listen: emphasize left/right/finally equal balance. It is easy to further refine later after listening to more familiar music.

Learning it all at once is challenging, most of us learned bit by bit.
I just got a new amp and preamp, moved everything several times changed equipment locations/weights effecting the top shelf level. I finished with tt adjustments. After years of doing this, it only took me about 10 minutes to double check and make minor adjustments, it can take quite a long time learning, and changing to a new cartridge.

My advice, leave lots of time, with no one else around. Then, someone's ears, to help with final anti-skate adjustment


I'm new here.

How do you respond to a specific post, or to the OP's latest post when you see it later (above more recent posts)?

thanks,

chakster
2,823 posts
06-28-2019 10:16am
I’m new here.

How do you respond to a specific post, or to the OP’s latest post when you see it later (above more recent posts)?

copy, paste, select and click first quote button in your window
Got it, thanks. I copied your name as well as text, so others would know who I was responding to.

I didn't get a notification that you had responded to me. Is that possible here?

mewsickbuff
 OP
136 posts
06-27-2019 6:05pm
I have the Shure m97xe high-performance magnetic phono cartridge. The arm is the original arm. I found instructions for cartridge and my specific turntable's arm setup online in the operating instruction manual, rare and detailed.

I also use M97xe. Love it, actually prefer it to my two Microline's (shure and audio technica).

Shure just stopped making stylus, the prices have tripled in a short time, keep your eye out for a replacement stylus at some kind of price.

I've had some fancy tt in my time, prior favorite was Thorens with SME arm, but my floors are too springy, it's bearing not good with vertical movement. I am quite happy with my current Audio Technica LP120 so I know what type of arm you have as well.

Often, finer engineering, i.e. 7 pound platter, involves the avoidance of potential problems, not apparent improvements in it's fundamental purpose.