Ways the stylus tip is attached to the cantilever

I think I may be confused on this subject. Are there only 2 ways the stylus tip can be attached? Either nude or bonded? Likely confused with the way a stylus tip is attached to the shank or the way the shank is attached to the cantilever.

My initial thinking is that with nude there is no bonded tip, but is the shank still glued or bonded to the cantilever? is it possible that a nude shank is attached to a cantilever without being bonded? Is worse case bonded tip and bonded shank?

Thanks for clarification on the subject.
The processes I’ve read about are:

For bonded tips, the stylus tip is first bonded with a cyanoacrylate glue to a metal or ceramic shank that in turn is either glued to the surface of, or mounted through a hole in, the cantilever and secured with glue.

For nude styli, the shank of the single piece stylus/shank is usually mounted, and glued, through a hole in the cantliver. The best contructions I’ve seen show the passed through shank of the stylus on the other side of the cantilever. That seems to be the most robust and durable means to secure the stylus/cantiveler assembly. Glue is always used to secure the assembly.

Perfect! Thanks for the info Stevecham!
Anyone know if the Nagaoka MP-200 and MP-150 carts (2 that I am considering if my AT VM540ML doesn’t work out) have bonded diamonds? I see some sites that say nude and some that say bonded. Also when I view the Nagaoka stylus PDF, it only mentions the MP-100 and MP-110 as having bonded tips, but the guide doesn’t specifically say it doesn’t on the rest of them (doesn’t mention nude). Anyone know for certain?
I've only ever seen big blobs of glue bonding a nude diamond shank to boron and ruby/sapphire rod cantilevers. Sometimes this is quite sloppy. With aluminum pipe cantilevers, nude diamonds don't seem to need the glue. These glue-less mountings look much cleaner and may have structural/sonic advantages over a glue joint. Not sure how they do the diamond rod cantilevers, but I haven't seen a pic yet of one with sloppy glue. 

I don't think you'll ever find a bonded-tip stylus on a boron or ruby cantilever - it wouldn't make sense to pair such a low-end stylus to these exotic/expensive cantilever materials - they should always hold only nude diamonds. So I don't think you'll find any cartridges with TWO glue bond joints. 
Dear @bstatmeister :  with aluminum cantilevers the stylus can be attached by pressure.

Now, that you know  about: in wht way that could helps you to improve the qulity performnce levels in your system?

Thank's in advance.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
Hi Raul, I am worried that the AT VM540ML (arriving tomorrow) will sound too bright/shrill, so I kind of have buyers remorse without even trying it first (hopefully, I will be very wrong) I didn't buy the Nagaoka first since I've been stewing over if I should get the MP-200 over the MP-150 for quite a while, but decided to go with the Microline due to it's advanced profile. If the 540ML does not work (due to my fears of being too harsh/sterile), just trying to have a back-up plan and likely it would be the MP-150 at this point since same price as the 540ML. Based off of everything I've read the MP-150 while not the most advanced stylus and cantilever in the world can sound very very musical and that is what I want. Can I have great detail without overall harshness and full, punchy mid-range and bass? Does it have to be either/or? When it comes down to it, it if has to be leaning one way over the other, I think I would choose a smoother presentation over etched precision detail. We will see what happens!
A true audiophile post.