Congratulations on a wonderful system!. If your listening room is on the heavily damped side of the spectrum the Furutech will give more "air and detail without being bright". The Synergistic Research Black will do a wider spectrum of things "right" to the music. I have only heard the Oyaide R1 which is a darker sound but has good qualities.
All of the outlets you ask about will sound much better than ordinary outlets. All will take 150 hours to fully settle in.
You can always pick more than one and every six months exchange them - just like tube rolling! You may find there is more than one right answer to audio satisfaction.
I would start with $50 receptacle from Porterhouseaudio.com.
As I understand, Albert himself uses them in his half a million dollar system. They must be good enough.
The Porter outlet is a good entry grade audio outlet. It is a hospital grade and unplated Hubble outlet that has been cryo treated.
I do think outlet technology has since progressed and that there are outlets such as the Synergistic Research Black, Furutech GTX-R or G models, and Oyaide that will give a greater sonic benefit.
I do hope all music lovers are not using the outlets that were originally installed in their houses or apartments.
Well, with an system like tjbhuler
has, I guess cost wouldn't be a restraint, but for most folks a Porterhouse would be a significant upgrade.
If cost is no object at all, one could try them all. It takes a few minutes to replace a receptacle. Besides, as David said, they might in fact sound just slightly different, not better or worse. What's more, at this level you might also want to match power cords not only to components but to a particular receptacle as well.
Hi guys thanks for the replies really appreciate it. What I'm keen to know more is the character each of these receptacles and what are the changes and impact that it made in your system. So that I can have a better judgment on which should i go for.
Cost is always an issue here especially with the renovations that I'm doing. Im from Malaysia and US dollar is not cheap now even those hubbles and porter are expensive now which i have to order online since it is not available in my region. As for the furu and oyaide I have a distributor here and he has some old stocks before the currency hike. It is still expensive than the hubbles and porter but not significantly more now. So getting those furu, oyaide receptacles seems to be a wiser choice. As for the SR blacks that is very expensive as it was recently released but i decided to place them in as an option also since it has been getting good reviews.
Yes going for all 3 will solve the riddle but that's not how i would like to do it. What David said on trying out every 6 months or so each of those receptacle is a good way but it will be much better if i can get an offhand info regarding these receptacles before my purchase.
This is my experience: I began with Hubble Cryo version (like Porter outlets). The difference compared to ordinary Hubble outlet was huge. I moved to SR tesla Red and it was even better. Then I replaced them with Furutech GTX-G on amp side (Solid state) and GTX-R on sources/preamp. I found more improvement on both frequency extremes, much better transition on notes, better sound stage and much better articulation on vocals and notes. Most people suggests GTX-Rhodium for Tube based systems like yours which is well justified as reasoning, also based on my own experience. There are tones of comments about Oyaide vs. Furutech. I would recommend this article too: http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0114/audiophile_ac_outlets.htm
BTW, I've never seen any review about SR Black UEF! However, I would guess it has same sound signature of SR outlets which is very open on High frequencies.
hope that would help...
What a wonderful concise review of outlets and thank you for providing the link to the outlet review. I agree with your observations and the "Enjoy the Music" article's conclusions. I do hope all audiophiles will read this article.
The Synergistic Black outlet (to me) has qualities of the SR Tesla Plex outlet mixed with the increased detail and air of the Furutech GTX-R.
When evaluating any of the discussed outlets, please give them a week of electricity flowing thru them before making a final decision.
Being a long time Oyaide user/advocate, I could shed a bit of light on the R1 vs. R0 outlets. The R1 is one of the most refined outlets available with excellent octave to octave balance along with an excellent delineated soundstage. However, it is somewhat romantic and as such should be chosen with care when implemented in ones system.
The R0 is a much more refined R1 with the romanticism stripped away
which yields a most stunningly accurate soundstage and bass control.
The highs are as neutral as I've heard along with a linear midband.
Of course, anyone considering outlets in this category should seriously
start with the Oyaide WPC-Z wall mount plate system as this allows the outlet(s) to really show their attributes.
As to the other 2 outlets, I have a SR Tesla Plex SE and it is a very nice piece providing an outstanding soundstage along with solid top to bottom balance and extended/refined lows. I use one to feed my REL Stadium lll subbass system with outstanding results
I've always wanted to try the Furutech outlets and may do so here someday, especially the GTX series.
Hope this helps
Thank you nmmusicman for reminding outlet users to consider using the Oyaide WPC-Z (outlet mounting holder + carbon fiber face plate). The WPC-Z improves the sound by holding the outlet more securely in place and the carbon face plate helps improve the purity of the signal.
As a bonus the outlet also has a very professional - custom installation look.
After installing the Oyaide + the wall outlet of your choice, I hope the advanced audiophile will consider buying a Hagerman FryCorder.
This unit from Jim Hagerman plugs into wall outlet and then conditions the circuit's wiring all the way back to the utility company's transformer! Takes three days but you can listen to your music while it is working. Then remove the Frycorder from the circuit.
WPC-Z + Syner
Thanks for the link and your opinions on the GTX's. I was also thinking in the same line too pertaining to the rhodiums and tubes but the ARC's are not so "tubish" as other tube equipments are. Guess the only way to know is to get one and try it out.
Thanks you for the wonderful description regarding the R0 and R1. My dealer has also mentioned me regarding using the oyaide receptacles with the WPC-Z wall plate. I was shocked to hear the price of this wall plate but the dealer was saying that it is worth the price to pair it up with either the R0,R1 and Ultimo xxx receptacles.
It is reassuring to hear you mention about the WPC-Z as i was initially thinking that the dealer was just trying push me to get those wall plates.
Keep them coming guys your feedback is giving me better judgment on which to go for.
The Oyaide wall plates do occasionally come up for sale here at Audiogon as do the Wall outlets.
If your source of equipment in Malaysia does not offer a return policy, an option is to buy used at Audiogon. That way the outlets are already partially broken in!
On Audio asylum there's a dealer selling a NIB Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) Duplex. This is the latest version.
Check it out.
IME, the WPC-Z wall mount system is not just an accessory but an essential building block to allow the Oyaide, or other outlets, to perform to their maximum potential and worth every penny for the ROI delivered.
An additional item I would like to mention is Oyaide is now offering an unplated version of the P004 male plug which should be a most synergistic match with the RO outlet.
As an aside, I just received an unplated P004 but have yet to press it into service. I'll report out when I have done so.
I tried the 2 different SRs. The black and the red duplex. I found the Furutech GTX-D to be superior audible improvement over it. Better than $$$ power distributer. Tossed that and go directly into the duplex. Much better resolution in a pretty pricey system.
I use the Porter Ports on a dedicated line for my 2 channel and on 4 dedicated lines in the theater. Never looked back...
Rippet I have had several of the Oyaide duplex and then tried the Furutech GTX-D and most recently the new Furutech NCF duplex outlets. The Furutech's have been cleaner and more musical than the Oyaide IMO.
I just replaced my Maestro outlet with an Oyaide R0.
I’m really quite amazed at how a "small" change like this can have such a meaningful impact on a system.
The Oyaide moves you several rows closer to the music.
It’s still breaking in, but I can tell it’s an utterly refined sounding outlet.
Hi Macdude did you use the R0 with WPC receptacle wallplate ?
I am thinking of this getting this particular model (R0) along with the Furu gtx-d as some reviews that I have read shows the R1 seems to be slightly bright and dry sounding.
Tjbhuler, I'm using it with the Furutech wall mount and cover.
I have GTX-Ds in my Entreq Powerus Challenger.
I didn't like the sound of having GTX-Ds at the wall outlet and in the power conditioner.
I'm still in the break-in period for the R0, so I'll try to suspend judgement.
But so far the dynamics and refinement of this outlet is something you have to hear.
Some weaknesses that I thought were coming from the DAC were actually coming from my old power conditioner and wall outlet.
I had the same experience as you when I first starting using Oyaide outlets. Issues I thought were related to digital playback were in fact power related to my outlet/power conditioning. Each step up the Oyaide line, while sometimes sideways, was always an improvement to digital playback and to everything else as well, just not as dramatic as the digital transformation.
Going to high current balanced power was the best upgrade I've made.
Nmmusicman, what balanced power setup are you using?
I was going to go with a Vertex Balanced Hi-rez Taga, but I would have had to custom order it with US sockets and buy it without an audition.
So I picked up an Entreq Powerus Challenger 3v and it's very good. In fact, it's so much better than anything else I've tried that I wouldn't even call it a power conditioner.
Nmmusicman, what balanced power setup are you using?"
I'm using a dedicated 20 amp line to the listening room with a Platinum Power PP-1 balanced power transformer with a rated capacity of 2400VA.
I'm also using a second unit for the HT system.
The transformers for the PP-1 were custom made to Platinum Power specs by Plitron using 10 gauge wiring instead of the usual 12 gauge along with other proprietary tweaks. Unfortunately, Platinum Power is long out of business and units very seldom come up for sale if at all.
The Oyaide R0 may still be breaking in, but I can already tell it's a much more forward and caffeinated outlet than the Maestro. The Maestro is definitely laid back and romantic in comparison.
I agree with nmmusicman that the R0 has a precise soundstage. It's been educational listening to it, as I've never heard sound staging done like this before.
Nmmusicman, according to my UK audiophile friends, there are huge gains when upgrading to a balanced mains block, such as the Vertex AQ Balanced Hirez Taga. In fact, Vertex goes as far as saying your system won't perform at a high level until you go balanced power.
I was about to go that route, but there was no audition period since I had to get it custom made with US sockets.
I would also place the PP-1 on isolation feet or an isolation stand if you haven't already done so. That will make a big difference.
"I would also place the PP-1 on isolation feet or an isolation stand if you haven't already done so. That will make a big difference.
How about this: The PP-1 in the main rig is placed on maglev isolators which in turn are placed on a Sound Anchors amp stand that is filled with 10lbs of sand that is then spiked to the cement pad thru the carpet. In addition, the first outlet in the daisy chain has been replaced by an Oyaide RO. My amp and REL sub are connected to the first outlet. There are also TeknaSonics C-5 and C-10 vibration transducers strategically placed on the chassis.
The PP-1 in the HT system is placed on a Steve Blinn component rack where it is isolated with German Acoustics spike feet that are interfaced with low durometer o-rings. There is also a TeknaSonics C-5 vibration transducer on the chassis. Inside are Walker Audio resonance control discs placed for best results.
I'm glad you are liking the results from the R0, it will only get better as it breaks in. Please keep us posted to the RO performance attributes.
Macdude thanks keeping us updated with the R0 in place in your system. This is giving me more reasons to go for the R0 hopefully my dealer has some in stock..
With the R0 installed, I had the same epiphany as when I added the Entreq Powerus Challenger:
There's more to redbook CD than I ever imagined.
It appears as though the other outlets are obscuring/smearing the low level details that are present with the R0 installed.
Macdude how many hours in are you with the R0? Does it emphasise more on certain frequency range in your system or does it sound tonally balanced? I am always worried when any of this upgrades causes a tonal change.
I'm up to 1 week. So not at the 2 week mark yet.
It's hard to gauge these changes, but I would have to say the R0 is in a class of it's own.
It is detailed. The resolution and soundstage is something you have to hear firsthand.
And it does sound tonally different to me than the Maestro and GTX-D rhodium.
Tonality is something I can't gloss over. If I don't like it, I just won't listen to it.
Nmmusicman, I guess you have the power isolation part covered!
I have my Entreq Powerus and Olympus on a Stillpoints ESS stand.
Interestingly I tried Tidal streaming with a modified Sonos Connect and all the painstaking investments in power, isolation , and grounding weren't that apparent with the Sonos.
Went back to CD playback and it's all there in it's glory.
Well the R0 is fully broken in now, or nearly so.
It is utterly refined, dynamic, and airy.
It's been a while since I've had the GTX-D as a wall outlet, but I feel the R0 is better than the GTX-D rhodium in this role.
Interestingly, I had another experience of a power upgrade addressing a shortcoming I thought was coming from my Exemplar DAC’s tubed output stage.
I replaced the cord on the Exemplar DAC with a Dynamic Design Challenger AE15 and the noise is gone.
Not that the previous cord was a slouch. It's a reference power cord.
And I have to to say the DD cord has a wonderful effect on digital.
I've been using the GTX (R) and (G) for a while. I had all GTX outlets installed in the PS Audio P10 I just sold.
It should be noted that plating metals play an important role in the profile of your sound; this is true with outlets, power connectors, speaker cable connectors, etc. Gold has a warm, full-bodied sound, while Rhodium transmits less midrange, giving a leaner, faster, more neutral presentation.
Someone mentioned using Rhodium for tube gear (tubes can sometimes use an injection of speed). Your mains outlet should reflect the sound profile you're going for with your entire system and your power connectors for the component.
One more thing. Unless you have a hell of a lot of money, don't spend $100 on a graphite outlet plate. Stainless steel plates that cost $5 at the hardware store are a much wiser use of funds.
Right on this topic, whether it is the graphene, NCF all alike does something with emi and rfi, just as the carbon fibre plate will also change the sound.