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VPI Super Platter

From what I read here and at AA it appears the general consensus is that the Super Platter is a fairly significant upgrade from the all acrylic platters on the newer Scoutmaster and Aries turntables. However, I have an older Aries 1 with a fairly heavy platter that resembles in appearance, the Super Platter. Any Aries 1 owners know the one I am talking about? Would the Super Platter be as significant an upgrade to this platter as it is to the acrylic ones? Also, does the inverted bearing that comes with the Super Platter represent a significant improvement over the bearing I already have. My Aries is about 6 years old and has the JMW 10 tonearm. I also have the SDS.
randyhat

Showing 6 responses by dgarretson

dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Rick, Glad to hear that you like the original delrin/lead platter that I've also been spinning for many years on my TNT. I recall HW posting recently to a forum that the lead platter was fine, and that he had moved away from it only because of the lead hazzard.

There are several things that one can do short of changing platters to improve the VPI's sound. These include switching to thread drive & to unsprung suspension with a good isolation platform underneath. A silicon nitride ball in place of steel ball in the original noninverted bearing is also an improvement.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Boca Bearing on-line has SiC balls. I suggest polishing the inside of the non-inverted bearing cup with compound and a pointed felt dremel bit until the ball rolls smoothly in the cup. For reassembly, retain the ball in the cup using a few drops of oil between the ball & the cup. Get the oil change and the correct oil level done first before switching to a SiC ball. The ceramic ball is nonmagnetic. During subsequent service it will have to be retreived from the well with a small automotive grabber or by turning the well upside down. But I wouldn't expect a need for much servicing as the ceramic balls are harder & smoother than steel.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Sorry, I mean Si3N4, not SiC ball bearing.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Pull the steel ball bearing out with a strong magnet.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Whatever the designer's original intention, IME there was audible improvement after remounting the stock steel ball in a polished cup in which the bearing moved freely, as compared to the stock set-up in which the bearing rolled but with drag. As there were no flat spots on the steel ball after many years of use, I concluded that the ball had been rolling roughly & noisily and distributing wear around its circumference.

There was further improvement after switching from steel to ceramic.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
A little creative destruction should remove that ball. I would drill a hole through the ball and drive in a stud remover. Or thread the hole in the ball and insert a grade 8 bolt, which could be extracted together with the ball by using a puller. Some light heat from an acetalene torch might also help. If it can be pressed in, it can be pulled out.
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