VPI RCM 17 F trouble, very urgent NEED HELP......

I am running into problems constantly. The matt platter runs loose after cleaning 2 or 3 records at a time. I have to remove the matt platter and tighten the shaft screws. I am growign tired of this excercise. I was wondering if there is any thing that can be done to fix this issue.

I will also call up VPI and ask about this problem, and see that they have to say.
Are you tightning the screw by hand, maybe a tool is needed for proper tightness? I think you will get a better answer from VPI let us know.
I am using the L key for this.
Can you put a locking washer on it by chance, or a locking compound?
Something is most likely stripped if hand tightning is not working with the use of proper tool. Wait and call VPI and let them clear up the problem. I have a strange feeling they will have to look at it and make a parts replacment/send you a new part, or give you a new unit.

good luck
Medium strength Loctite available at Home Depot.Take the screws out completely and brush the threads clean with alcohol using an old toothbrush.Then place a drop of Loctite on them and torque them back in.Done for good.Loctite is not good for plastic parts though.Note that the medium strength Loctite is removable with excessive force .There is also a permanent Loctite but I wouldn't recommend it.That's what we use at work to install bolts.
Best of luck
Just to make a few thing clear here folks, The screw is not getitng loose that much. The Platter sits on a shaft that is rotated by the motor inside the VPI 17F, there are three screws that fix the platter onto the shaff, these 3 screws are on the top of the patter they just hold the platter.

Now the screws I am talking about are below this metal disk that holds the platter. The Disk has two screws and they are slipping.

I guess the information that I put upfront was not complete.
Called up VIP, they were stunned with this information. According the to them this is the only one that have heard.

They have asked it to be sent back so that they can look at it. Lets see what happens
Well, I am glad for you that VPI stands by their products, and let us know the outcome.
Well for all those interested VPI replaced the machine under warrenty.
Thanks for the update. Did it really take nearly 3 months?

I had a similar problem with my 16.5 after only a few hours of use. I thought the gears in the motor were stripped, they're only plastic. While the machine was under warranty, it was too much trouble to return it.

After opening the machine up, I noticed the motor was a Dayton as supplied by WW Grainger. No model # was visable. I called VPI and spoke to harry's wife who gave the motor #. I ordered it from Grainger only to find that it was the wrong motor. It was the one used in the Typhoon. I decided to remove the motor and mounting plate from the 16.5. After doing so, I found the problem.

There are 2 set screws locking the table plate to the motor shaft. There is a flat ground on the motor shaft onto which one set screw must be tightened. The 2nd screw locks down on the round. Whoever fastened down both screws didn't make sure ONE was on the flat of the shaft. So much for the American manufacturing prosesses.

My machine now has plenty of table power and I have two spare VPI motors; anybody need one?

Well as for 3 months no it just took 1 month to get every thing done. I was in the process of moving so could not send the machine out to VPI.

So Ken you have 2 machines out of which one is for the typhoon or both for the 16.5.

I have one for each. The first Grainger part number was for the Typhoon. It ran $63. and as soon as I compared it to the one in the 16.5, I knew she gave me the wrong motor number. After getting the correct number I reordered from Grainger. While I was removing the motor I noticed the score marks on the motor shaft. Checking out both set screws I noticed they were both screwed in at the same dimension. Furthermore, there was no mark on the flat of the motor , telling me that both screws were locked down on the round. I affixed the platter bearing properly, remounted the original motor and everything was fine. I now have 2 new VPI motors that I'm too lazy to return to Grainger. The 16.5 motor ran $44.

Since I pre wash on the machine using more pressure than I should, I figure it's only a matter of time before I'll need a motor replacement.

Hello, Would you offhand know the part number for the 16.5? Would be good to know as a reference. Thank you, Mark

Grainger part number-- 3m099, Typhoon motor number is -3m153.

You can adapt the typhoon motor to the 16.5 by drilling a few holes in the mounting plate of the 16.5. The balls of the typhoon motor is worth the few minutes it would take to redrill a few holes.

Hello Ken, Thank you for this information. I 'm a little confused, and unsure what you mean by "The balls of the Typhoon Motor"?

Are you saying that the Typhoon Motor is a better Motor that the 16.5 Motor, because it has better bearings in it?, or? Can you better explain please? Thank you. Mark
Ken, I'm a little lost as to which motor in the VPI RCM you've been talking about. Is this the motor that spins the platter, or the vacuum motor that pulls the fluid off the surface?

I'm referring to the gearhead motor used to spin the platter.


The Typhoon motor, 3m153, is both physically larger than the motor used in the 16.5, 3M099, and turns at 20 rpm as comparred to 18 rpm for the 16.5 motor. While there is a difference in size between the two, there is ample room in the 16.5 for the larger Typhoon motor.

Hi Ken Thanks for the Info,
I checked at WW Grainger, have looked at both Motors, and it appears the Dayton Typhoon Platter Motor requires a Run Capacitor also (not much, just $5), and also mentions it has the capability to also reverse rotation. Cool.

Now, I wonder who makes the Vacuum Motor! lol
It appears buying direct is a bit cheaper than from VPI, right? Mark

Most of the American made vac motors are made by Lamb Electric. They make the widest range of motors available and have been doing it as long as anyone. They also private label for many oem users so the Lamb part number won't show up.

Thanks for the clarification, Ken.