VPI JMW setup

How about the Azmuth? I too have a HW-19. It had a Rega RB300 and with it's mods I loved it. Then just like you I bought a JMW-9 and this has been an improvement as well. I find that getting the Azmuth right really helps the soundstage. That and careful set up.

VPI says to put a light weight stick or straw in the groove of the headshell and measure to see that it's level. I have a very small very light bubble level and I just put that on the headshell. It's amazing how when it looks visually level that it's not.

The sound definitely improves when you get it level. This is something you can't adjust on the Rega.

By the way, I went crazy earlier this week and removed the motor from the standard base mount and affixed it directly to the plinth -- a la the new Classic. Then I put the plinth directly on the base without the pucks (or springs).

I think this made a HUGE improvement in the sound. I spoke with Harry at VPI about it and he was excited to discuss it and encouraged me to keep going in this direction. He now thinks that this is the way to go.

The actual stp distance is 222.8. So, you're fine either way. 222 is the accepted distance. There is a guy KWILIS on the Vinyl Asylum that creates really nice protractors for $50. He just did one for me and it's great.

As for the wobble, That sounds like a LP pressed off center not a cart problem. I've never noticed this.

Do you have an accurate VTF gauge? And, is it calibrated. I use one of those digitals that you get on A'gon for $50 but are sold at Music Direct for $130 and it works great. But it got out of calibration and I didn't realize it. I kept having cart problems and finally I double checked the VTF and found the problem. Easily fixed.

I shoot for my tonearm to be pretty much level when setting VTA, but some carts will want the tail up and some others will want the tail down. But I'm not a big believer in this needing obsessive attention.

Getting my azimuth more or less set has made the biggest improvement in my sound.

The "true" best way is to set it electronically. There is a computer program and you can dynamically adjust it. Or you use voltage meters to minimize cross-talk. But the way you've done it is the way that I do it and makes both sense and good sounds to me.

The computer program costs a couple of hundred dollars and you need an outboard A/D convertor (sound card, etc) to get the info into the computer. It's a new thing.

Wally sold a device for this that was meters etc. But you can't get Wally to deliver anything unless you work for Stereophile magazine.

I don't have VPIs protractor. I have three that I printed out plus Ken's protractor that I mentioned earlier and I feel with these I'm getting it set just so.

Oh, what cart do I use. I have a couple that I use and interchange between them. I have a 1980's Audio Technica AT155LC MM cart which is fantastic and a Denon 103D MC cartridge that I love as well.

I've ordered an Ortofon 2M Black MM cart which should be here next week or so.

The AT cart's VTF is 1.0 to 1.25 grams and the Denon's is 1.5 to 1.7 grams.

I found the JMW9 hum problem to be best solved with good SHIELDED cables from the junction box to the phonostage. I do still need a ground wire from the junction box ground screw lug to the phonostage and I also tie that junction box ground wire into the ground wire that exits out the bottom of the tonearm shaft.