VPI Classic/Clear Audio Maestro Wood Question


I just bought a CA Maestro Wood cartridge from an A'gon member. Per the seller, the cartridge is practically brand new and hasn't even broken in yet. The seller has great feedback and I found him to be very reliable.

I mounted the Maestro Wood myself, being careful to double check alignment, azimuth, VTF and VTA. My turntable is a VPI Classic, with the stock JMW 10.5iSE arm. As far as I can tell, the turntable and arm are in good working order. As regards azimuth, I adjusted it with both the little aluminum rod provided by VPI AND with a bubble balance. Azimuth is perfect. Ditto VTA. Oh, per VPI's suggestion, I am NOT using anti-skating force AND made sure the tone arm wire is not twisted.

After all mounting procedures were performed and double checked, I "eye-balled" the cartridge and cantilever alignment while playing a record. I noticed that as best I could tell, it seemed as though the cantilever was pulling slightly inward towards the spindle, maybe 10+ degrees. Same thing with the cartridge just sitting on a record with the platter not turning. However, when I lifted the arm, the cantilever seemed to hang straight down. Sound imaging is spot center in play mode. Ordinarily, I would have thought the cantilever was pulling slightly inward towards the spindle because of excessive anti-skating force, but as stated above, I am NOT using the anti-skating set-up.

Ok -- the question: Is it normal for the Maestro Wood cantilver to pull slightly inward towards the spindle under the circumstances described above?

One more question: I also own a CA Virtuoso Wood which needs a new stylus and cantilever. Does anyone know who the Clear Audio contact is that does the re-tips?

Thanks for the advice.
bifwynne

Showing 5 responses by markd51

I'm certainly far from being the "house expert" here when it comes to cartridges, particularly the Clearaudio, which I've never owned, nor have I ever owned a Table with a VPI Arm on board.

But, when you say you "eyeballed" the cartridge, and cantilever alignment, this of course leaves lots of room for mis-interpretation by others.

Perhaps then, you might wish to further elaborate as to your alignment methods, what tool-tools you used?

I would assume if you're noting a cocked cantilever while in play, that perhaps at no point on the record is your cantilever-stylus properly aligned (azimuth angle) to the groove.

From the sound of it, you're possibly under an assumption that the seller somehow perhaps mis-represented what he sold you, that you're having some doubts about the hours of play, and/or the integrity of cantilever-suspension being possibly damaged from whatever possible mishap?

There may be the possibility that you may indeed have to implement some slight bit of anti-skating force, then try again, and see what the results are?

I'm of the camp that believes that absolutely no anti-skate force applied is going to necessarily be the best choice per any given application. Mark
I meant to say that at no point is "Zenith Angle" correct, not Azimuth, sorry. Mark
Sorry, I'm not trying to twist your comments into something else.

I see where you mentioned later about having some other clearaudio cartridge rebuilt, and I wrongly assumed you were referring to the cartridge on the table, my mistake.

But it does seem you are seeking opinion as to why this issue you note is occuring, and I assume you hadn't ever noticed such occuring with another cartridge on this table?

Hopfully, you'll get all solved, and hopefully too, others can give you better advice than I have.

Choosing not to mention any names with this reference I once read, by a very knowledgeable person who I know that posts to this forum once made a comment, along these lines I believe that if one sets up antiskate to track neutrally on a blank test track, that antiskate will most likely be set much too high.

And to further go on, he mentioned that too high antiskate will often be the cause of a cantilever that will take a permanently skewed-crooked set.

But that no antiskate at all can never cause this to happen?

And that's where I'm a bit at a loss to understand this priciple? Where one can be detrimental, but the other isn't?

Hopefully more folks can enlighten up both, and please do keep us posted on your findings. Hope you get all sorted out. Best of luck, Mark
Another simple method to fairly accurately eyeball azimuth angle, and will be free of cost, is use a thin mirror to set the Stylus upon, and the symmetry of the Stylus, and the reflection of the Stylus in the mirrror should be noticeable if it is off.

What you're looking to achieve-see, is a precisely symmetrical hourglass shape.

And the Mirror can be something as simple as a CD you don't much care about, to set the Stylus upon. Neither Glass, or Plastic will hurt the Stylus.

This view of the Stylus from the exact front of the cartridge can be enhanced by the use of a Jeweler's Loupe, or a magnifier.

Glad to hear things are getting better with the set-up! Mark
Where's Doug Deacon when you need him?! lol

Speaking of Doug, I have not seen him post here in some time. Is he OK? Anybody know?

Somehow, I hope some of what I wrote might be of help.
Never forget to cover all bases I say, and one should not ever overlook things that are assumed, and thought to be correct.

You can best believe, any Unipivot Arm is going to be a PITA to set up. That you're going to have to invest more time, versus a dual pivot design.

Tools help. And the better the tools, the better the accuracy.

But Doug's advice always rings in the back of my mind.
His take will usually always revert back to trusting your ears.

That one cannot solely rely on VTF Scales, no matter if it is a $600 Winds Scale. That 1.7g VTF might work just perfectly on your friends Dyna DRT XV-1 Cartridge, but that doesn't mean yours will follow suit.

Nor any form of tool to aid Azimuth will necessarily be ultimately best, that the ears will always be the final criterion in most matters concerning vinyl playback.

About the only tool perhaps one shou;d place sole trust in, is a highly accurate Protractor. And which one is that?

Many have opted for the MintLP Arc Tractor, versus VPI, Dennison, Fiekert, etc etc. I myself think it is an outstanding tool, with little peer.

When people like Thom Mackris of Galibier suggest such, and another common sense no BS person such as Bill Feil conclude to settle on such as a no holds barred, no BS tool as thE MintLP Protractor, trust that they can find no reason to slam such in any form.

Keep experimenting. You'll most likely continue to improve your set-up. Mark