Azimuth can only be ball parked by levelling. I'm not saying you're wrong to do it that way, but ultimately there are better ways to align the actual stylus with the groove rather than aligning the body. The azimuth adjustment is one for lowest crosstalk. If you have a balance control you can do it by ear and a mono record, preferably a vocal. You can get a test record with tones to set azimuth. These are 1KHz tones in one channel at a time. You adjust it so you have equal output in whichever channel is quiet - balanced. A tech can view the outputs on a scope or a computer screen. You can also buy programs or testers that will help you. Soundsmith has a set-up device for $900 that will do everything but your dishes. Feikert had a program for $350 that you use with your PC. I really don't think they are necessary if you're willing to spend a little extra time. An Analogue Productions test record is $50. Most of the tests require test equipment that only a tech has. You can do azimuth by ear and a balance control, just like a mono record.
Every set-up parameter is interrelated. Sometimes when you make an adjustment, another has to be tweaked. I'm not sure whether you were referring to the back or front of your cantilever being angled. But you have to be sure you're viewing straight on and not at an angle. Your lighting has to be even and not coming from one side or the other. This will effect results. It could easily look different than it really is. If the arm is closer to the spindle than the needle is, you need more anti-skate, and visa versa. Yes, it can change the angle of your cantilever. The thing is, anti-skate requirements vary at different parts of the record and at different groove velocity. So you should find a setting that sounds reasonable for what you normally listen to. Skating force is very real and to think otherwise is deluding yourself. I have no experience with a VPI arm, maybe you always have some anti-skate?
You might want to consider Soundsmith to re-tip your Virtuoso. For $350 you can get a ruby cantilever/micro stylus. I'm sure this will outperform the stock stylus. It will probably better the Maestro. It appears to me that all the CA MMs share the same generator, at least the top ones. Inductance and resistance are identical.
Regards,
Every set-up parameter is interrelated. Sometimes when you make an adjustment, another has to be tweaked. I'm not sure whether you were referring to the back or front of your cantilever being angled. But you have to be sure you're viewing straight on and not at an angle. Your lighting has to be even and not coming from one side or the other. This will effect results. It could easily look different than it really is. If the arm is closer to the spindle than the needle is, you need more anti-skate, and visa versa. Yes, it can change the angle of your cantilever. The thing is, anti-skate requirements vary at different parts of the record and at different groove velocity. So you should find a setting that sounds reasonable for what you normally listen to. Skating force is very real and to think otherwise is deluding yourself. I have no experience with a VPI arm, maybe you always have some anti-skate?
You might want to consider Soundsmith to re-tip your Virtuoso. For $350 you can get a ruby cantilever/micro stylus. I'm sure this will outperform the stock stylus. It will probably better the Maestro. It appears to me that all the CA MMs share the same generator, at least the top ones. Inductance and resistance are identical.
Regards,