Do you have the black junction box? If you have the older one, that may be the issue.
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I would recommend you return the thing and go back to the wire twist for anti-skate. There are multiple issues (problems) with the design and you will frustrate yourself needlessly while failing to obtain better sound. I played with mine for about a month and finally decided it was one of the most poorly designed add ons I'd ever come across.
No Dodgealum..wrong advice. Although the twist method may be correct when new, eventually the wire looses its tension. To be truthful, Harry likes no anti-skate at all, however, I have found the VPI device audibly helpful. I had the 9 Sig, and now have exchanged it for the 10.5i which because it's longer, should have less need for anti=skate..and yet... Notice Arnold the the device should be adjusted. The unit has many adjustments to provide optimum Anti=Skate. Don't just put it on..adjust it to its optimum
Hmm. The wire will loose it's tension. Nope. Now, let's deal with the devise in question. The weight Harry has chosen to use is far too heavy for the application and therefore does not allow for the fine adjustment of anti-skate as needed in this application. Just try sliding the weight up and down the shaft to see what I mean. Also, the string which provides the tension is the incorrect length and therefore does not provide proper anti-skate tension throughout the arm travel and has a tendency to flop the whole assembly over when the arm goes into the lead out grooves. I experimented with several different lengths to no avail. (Basically, there is no "correct" length for the string line) Listen, I went all over the map on this thing until I finally got an admission from someone at VPI that the thing was useless and that the wire twist is the preferred (though flawed) means of applying anti-skate force (which is itself an ambiguous phenomenon) to the JMW9 tonearm.
I am wondering how so many Audiogoners have the definitive answer. Dodgealum - the word "Nope" should have been written - "I don't think so". Nordost is silver wire - a very soft metal. Indeed after a time - not too long either, the tension of that wire will be compromised. Also = the weight that is decried "too heavy" is carried by that little arm. Most of the time, most of that weight is on the pivot. I am tired of quibbling. The end result is what matters, and to me, it just sounds better with the anti-skate attached. ..maybe a decrease is vibration, maybe effective anti-skating, maybe trolls.
I have been playing with the anti-skate for the past several months with my 9 Signature tonearm. I am not using any twisting of the tonearm leads.
This is a picture of how I have the AS setup on my TT. I do not have an original at this time so refer to the link. I find this positioning works best as you can control the amount of swing of the device. I dont think I would ever configure the AS device as pictured in the Elusivedisc information.
Since this picture was taken, I have removed all the rubber washers on the horizontal post as I found they added too much AS. If you have the metal weight on the AS device, I would remove it as this provides WAY too much AS and find some of the washers locally or contact VPI and have some mailed to you.
If you want additional pictures, let me know and I will snap a few more.
Stringreen, as far as I know, the Nordost tonearm wire is silver plated copper with their proprietary mono-filament and FEP tube insulation. I have not found any mention of the tonearm wire being solid silver. Regardless, I do not want to put any additional twists on the wire.
Maczurak: Your post confirms exactly what I am saying (however inelegantly) about the VPI anti-skate devise--that it is poorly designed. The mere fact that you (like myself) had to "play with it...for the past several months" and have had to modify both the devise itself and the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer suggests that something is truly amiss. I applaud your persistence but (respectfully) suggest that you remove the devise, twist the wire and see whether you have really gained anything for all your trouble. This devise is for "tweakers" who like to play around with their equipment--a legitimate pursuit for sure. But if you are (like me) part of the "set it and forget it" crowd I'd avoid the anti-skate like the plague.
Actually, I have been optimizing the AS these past months to achieve the best sonic characteristics from my setup. During the beginning of the process, this also included other tonearm setup parameters. Thanks to all who contributed to the ZYX cartridge optimizing threads; your comments were of great help.
Even if the tonearm had a dial to adjust the AS, I still would be optimizing the setting. Would it have taken this long? Thats hard to say as I make an adjustment and enjoy listening to the music, then may not play LPs again for many days.
What I describe in the previous post is most likely what I will be using long term; the AS device attached like in the photo without any washers on the horizontal arm and the line attached to the top of the vertical arm. Have a look at the VPI web site as they have several pictures from different angles.
I have tried disengaging the AS device with and without the wire twist. I think I will keep the AS device engaged with the minimal amount of AS it now provides. Like Stringreen, I prefer the AS engaged for the reasons he describes. Thanks Stringreen for confirming what I was hearing in my system.
I've been trying to adjust this thing to get optimal results. It seems that when I adjust to for less anti skate, the adjustment also causes less counter-balance for the device and it topples over towards the tonearm eliminating any anti-skate benefit at all. It can also bind the tonearm and cause skipping and mis-tracking. Perhaps I'm not installed it correctly. I have it mounted in the junction box screw hole closest to the tone arm (JMW9). If I mount it so it points straight out towards the front of the plinth with the notched portion with the two o-rings sticking up, the tone arm will bump into it during the playing of an LP. If someone with a Scoutmaster with the JMW9 arm has this device installed and working properly would post a picture or two at several angles maybe I can get this thing to work properly.
I had a 9 Sig, and now am using the 10.5. In both cases the device worked without problems. I have the rubber washers about 1/2 way up its arm. It never interfered with the tonearm except in providing side thrust compensation. If I send a picture of my 10.5i it will not help you with the 9 - the 10.5 is set up a bit differently. If you send a picture of yours Arnold, I might suggest something I see may be misadjusted. When the unit is installed properly it works as intended.
Here are three pictures:
As you can see, in the second picture, when the arm is in play, the mono filament reaches it's maximum length before you reach the end of the LP side.
It looks like you have it set up correctly but the string is not long enough. I have a 10.5i arm and made my own string out of 4# test fishing line. I also do not use any O-rings on the outboad arm and only one on the upright arm with the loop of the string just resting on top of the O-ring. The loop is as high up on the arm as I can get it for the minimum of anti-skate. I made the string to a length so it touches the top of the pivot point when the arm is at rest, with it this length it is activated as soon as I move the arm but will not flop the devise over when the cartridge is at the center of the record.
What I've done to compensate for the string's lack of proper length is to angle the AS device towards the tone arm. This seems to have solved two problems. First, it prevents the tone arm from coming in contact with the AS device as it moves towards the center of the record, and second, it prevents the device from flopping over. Now to optimize it for best sound.