Vibration Control for Lightweight Tube Components

With a preamp that light, just like a small phonostage, or DAC, what-have-you, you need to be aware of not "loading" the preamp chassis with a heavy mains cable dangling from it, causing an energy path from whatever the cable is also in contact with. Again this is where those shot filled bags could be placed above and below the mains before it enters the preamp to "unload" its effect.

Besides isolation from room vibration from below, you must effectively wick the energy out of the component cabinet as well. adg101 had the cheap isolation aspect nailed! IKEA bamboo chopping/cutting boards are a no-brainer!

Bamboo composite board is rather sophisticated in its combination of polymer/grass density layering and is light, stiff, 18% more rigid than hard rock maple, and will be less likely to store low frequency energy. Not to mention, green and cheap.

The moongels may well do the trick over an audiophile BrightStar Isonodes or other gel gumdrop type footer. These are great below the board, but you will want to couple (wood blocks(to chassis/not under feet), point, etc) the cabinet/chassis of the component to draw either internal energy or airborne acoustic energy from the sheet steel box.

Mass loading on top of a component is advised, if possible for its dampening and absorption properties. Something I have found most effective for this, I no longer know where to source. They were paperweights, leather bags filled with lead shot, used to hold down large architectural roll size drawings. Perhaps diving ballast bags would do the trick and be most cost effective.

Once you eliminate the smearing that these vibrations cause with, cheap DIY solutions, I believe there is no doubt you will be well rewarded, perhaps amazed by the results. Your system background will become way blacker as well. I’ve employed these methods for years on my digital course, tubed preamp, and tubed phonostage with excellent results. I realize your Atma pre offers very little room on top to try to mass load, is it the UV-1 UltraViolet?

Happy Listening!

Lowrider57, I encourage using whatever mains cable makes your preamp sound best and then just try to relieve any hanging weight with some kind of support, even a pull-tie noose with the cable hanging, creating a service loop would do the trick and remove the transference of energy by relieving the tension.

Do let us know about your progress in vibration control as it comes together. We look forward to your impressions as you get closer to your music.

As a side note: I would love to add a Atma preamp to my kit, I have had MA-1 Silvers for quite some time and have heard the compo, and it's magic. Otherwise, could not be happier. 

Happy Listening!

mesch, May I interject, are your metal boxed components sitting on their manufacturers (rubber) supplied feet, on the maple shelves? Or have you tried coupling them by putting wood blocks, points (points down), or what-have-you, from the chassis to the shelf? The later scheme would act as a drain of energy from the component rather than isolating the energy within the component which the former would likely do.

Lowrider57, when you tried the Isonodes on the pine shelf and got the warmer and lusher presentation, what did they come in contact with? The component feet or the chassis?

Lowrider57, I would caution that the sound is new to you, give it a while. That’s not to say ultimately that it may not need adjusting to suit your tastes. I’ve found when smearing and distortions or confusion are first removed, there is a sense that things went leaner because so much more is resolved and no longer a fuzzy clutter. You should not have to have vibration in your gear and what comes with it to have the midrange warmth you desire. Yet, here is where Hi-Fi gets tricky. When you change one thing, it may well cause you to have to tweak others to get the balance or Gestalt of your sound back where you want it.

Before calling the bamboo the issue of leanness though I would suggest that you try some small wood blocks contacting between the bamboo and the chassis of your components. This will prove out if dampening the component box gives you back some of that midrange body, but it will also drain of cabinet bound energy as well.

Try anything, whatever you have on hand. I like myrtle wood blocks but, any wood will sound somewhat the same. I also like the bamboo yet, some like the maple ( many have only tried maple), though I tried both and went back to bamboo. But that’s me, and my kit, I can’t say it will ultimately work for you. Thickness also has an effect on the tone, so I’m afraid you may have to experiment there as well. A strategy might be to buy or borrow a marble wood board and try it under different components. Different gear may well like different isolation boards. My two turntables like thin (5/8-3/4") bamboo, my mono block amps prefer heavy (2 1/2") maple or bamboo, and my CD player seems to prefer a BDR Black Diamond Racing Reference board to perform best, so go figure.

At this point the good news is, you have successfully acquired isolation from the vibration, so that’s one step in the right direction. Now, don’t be afraid to just experiment.

Lowrider57, glad you have your warmth back without resonance, fortunately soft wood panels are not expensive either. 

if you want a finished maple wood platform, as you may well know, Amazon and IKEA also have a nice assortment of cost effective options and some of the cutting/chopping boards are really beautiful and don't carry the "audiophile" price gouge.

Happy Listening!

... And just how much is a Vibraplane that will hold one piece of audio gear???

This is why it may be "ultimate" but people have to skin-the-cat for far less. And I would bet you we are getting most of what the Vp isolates (80-90%) for a fraction of the cost.