Use the stock cords. If he put that in the owners manual, there's probably a very good reason for it.
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Why? Because power cords make a huge difference! "Seriously!" - Rpeluso. People that have not experienced what a well-made power cord can do just have not spent enough time listening to PC's or have been listening to the wrong cords or do not have a system that they are able to discern the differences in power cords. I was one of those guys (a power cord doubter) for many years until I had my audio world turned upside down with a Stage 3 Kraken power cord and HB Designs Power Strip. Power and power cords are a very big deal. The bottom line is that they make your system quieter and that makes information that has always been there come to the fore front. Its crazy what good power can do for the sound of your system!
Ok, back to the original question - Tnewell1. I find this question particularly interesting because I have Vandertsteen 5A speakers and I am currently auditioning power cords to the sub amps. Ever since I had my mind and ears opened up to what a good power cord can do - I have been on a mission with power cords thru out my system and specifically to my sub amps. I actually modified the heat sink fins to accommodate the bigger style connectors one finds on the more advanced power cords. Stay tuned Tnewll1. I've been doing a bunch of fiddling with my system lately but power cords to the sub amp are the next big focus. I think that it is going to be a big deal when I get a good PC on those sub amps! I will try and remember to touch base with you once I have tried some power cords on the subs. Take care and - good question!
"People that have not experienced what a well-made power cord can do just have not spent enough time listening to PC's or have been listening to the wrong cords or do not have a system that they are able to discern the differences in power cords."
What power cords should I use on my Ayre V-5's? I can't find ones that sound better than my stock cords.
Zd542: Well, I have no experience with that piece of gear. You might want to start a specific thread for that question. The Stage 3 Kraken power cord is an amazing, magical cord - I know that for sure! The Kraken would probably work great on your Ayre, but like everyone always says.... cords, cables, etc... work differently with every piece of gear. It's always best to try the cords or cables on your gear, in your system before making a commitment.
Well Rpeluso, changes in the quality of audio play back are probably often over stated if described as "huge". Of course, "huge" may be different things to different people. But... I have found that as one works his way up, squeezing more and better information out of their systems the changes are probably better described as "subtle but significant".
Keith...I agree with you that power cords make a huge difference....but as I said above...not on the Vandersteens 5A's that I own. I am using Ayre as well. I made my own power cords with Furutech ends and Acrolink cable. The cable is far less important then is the connectors. Oyeida is good too, but I liked Furutech best..
Keith, with your adjustment from "huge" to "subtle but significant", I can accept that some cords in some/many cases will make a difference. From my perspective the only piece of equipment I ever purchased that made a "huge" difference was going from by old and very much enjoyed Snell CIV speakers to Vandersteen Model 5As, not carbons. I have had them for nearly three years now I think, and cannot imagine something a lot better, though of course there is always better, but I am a happy person each time I sit in front of them and play a disc, either a black 12 inch one or a much smaller silvery one. Oh, and the tone controls on my pre are so very welcome a lot of the times, mostly on taming some high end harshness. Now, that is something I put in the "huge" category, from the single perspective of my enjoyment of a lot of (rock) music recorded long ago.
Johnny from Audio Connections is your source for all information that is not full of hyperbole. A great dealer, and a great human.
Rapunzel, or whatever. I'm not trying to convince you or anyone about anything. I'm just making what I consider to be a constructive comment about power cords on a power cord forum question that just happens to be directly related to the speakers that I have. If you do not believe that power cords make a difference - I couldn't care less - "really couldn't". So, there you have it - we both couldn't care less. That's perfect. I just wonder why people like you - that really have nothing constructive to say except that they do not believe power cords make a difference, even chime in on forum questions like this? It's odd.
Knowing Richard personally back the early 80'
When I lived in Visalia,Ca. He was a purist when it came
to his passion when developing the very first speaker.
Here's THE DEAL!! Power-Cords & the Techie speaker-cables.
Theirs is a SONIC difference in all of then. Hmmm!
Dose that make anyone of you to THINK? WHY!!.
If anyone in this thread has a Acoustic Slide Graphic Analyzer with 32 Oct1/4 to 32Db slopes filters X 1/3rds or half Octaves capabilities.
You can make your speakers. SOUND BEFORE & AFTER Cord or cables swapping. I know for a fact I can make speakers sound like what power cord rolling dose. ONLY FREE.
I think Richard also knows? Why manual states don't cord roll.
You all just Tinkling with segments of the frequency range.
I cant use his name without permission to quote him.
But he's well known Mag AUDIO REVIEWER for over 40yrs.
" If the MIDRANGE reproduction isn't right.
The rest doesn't MATTER." PERIOD.
What POWER CORDS & CABLES do more than anything else to change what you hear. Is on the outsides of the Mid-Range.
This post regards power cords for electronics (amp, preamp, CD player/DAC), not their use on my Vandersteen 5A Carbons which I've owned for about a year now. As others have said, I am using the stock cords for the speakers, and tend to follow Richard Vandersteen's recommendations for his products.
As far as power cords in general go, I had never had any recognition or knowledge of them, and so had no bias one way or the other before trying them. At dealer recommendation, I first tried them on my amp and preamp (not on CD player/DAC initially). Even my first low priced ones ($300-400 range, Kimber) made a difference that surprised me, actually (I'm trying to use moderate language here) astonished me for cost effectiveness. Then I added a third (a Kimber Ascent) on the CD/DAC and was even more astonished. At the time (and now) I thought it was the best bang-for-the-buck I'd ever done. Then, at dealer recommendation, I upgraded all to Audioquest NRG-1000s at much higher cost. I tender the following tenuously because I did not A/B them and inserted them along with other wire changes, in other words, don't rely on it, but I'm not convinced at this point that this upgrade was commensurate with the cost increase. Maybe I would be if I A/B'd them or added them to the system without any other changes at the time. At any rate, my point is that, having wandered into the power cord landscape with no knowledge and no pre-conceptions, there wasn't any question at all of a big improvement when I started to use them, especially in the area of cost effectiveness. Anyone could have heard it. The Kimber Ascent on the CD player/DAC (Resolution Audio Cantata) in particular was incredibly cost effective, making me think it's a huge bargain. In fact I even wrote the CD player manufacturer, saying if a power cord for a few hundred bucks could double the sonic quality of a six or seven thousand dollar unit, why didn't they incorporate it as OEM since it would add relatively little to the retail price and have a big impact on sonic quality, or at least offer it as an option. Other system components are Theta Dreadnaught I amp (two mono modules), Aesthetix Calypso preamp (not upgraded to Signature), all Audioquest wires (ICs, speaker and power cords).
If one wants to experiment, buy some decent Furtech connectors,even the entry level CU ones will do.
Then take some # 12 romex solid core wires ,remove the un-coated ground wire and the plastic sheath.
Take an electric drill ,insert the black and white wires in the opening of the drill, tighten the wires.At the other end put the wires in a vice.
Start the drill and it will twist the white and black wires so that they look as good as what the big boys do.
Then take a plastic covered wire from the same bundle of romex that you've used and make the ground connection.Twist the ground by hand evenly spaced as possible around the outside of the twisted wires and go in the opposite direction.
Then attach the three wires to the proper recptacles and plug into something using such cords as a test,precaution, but really, it's not hard, just make sure all the connections are snug.
This makes a decent upgrade from a stock molded rubber power cord.
I've found the bass is deeper, tighter, there's less haze. The sound has more focus.
The only pit fall is that you should not try to bend it,it's not flexible!
If you need to go round corners or don't have linear runs from your power outlets to your gear forget about this experiment.
Also if you feel that this may void your insurance or that you won't be able to sleep at night because this isn't UA approved, forget about it.
But also remember that this is the same wire that is running hidden between your walls.
Is anybody losing sleep over that?
Actually after lots of trials I was able to make my own cables for my 5A's. The trick is to get the plugs to fit into the speaker side...between the fins of the amps. I got a Cardas connector (3455 IEC CONNECTOR). I chose these because it is very easy to remove the plastic surround exposing the 3 connectors. Make sure you wire it properly and insert the pins properly to the amp. Make sure also, that you use electrical tape to make the unit electrically safe. I use Neotech cable ...I wanted the diameter to fit the connector on the wall side..so it couldn't be too larg for the wall plug. To these ears, there is a definite improvement and no down side.