Hi Dreadhead, Welcome to the Jr family!As you may remember, I own a Jr since new ('96) and have the AQ PT-6, upgraded to AQ Emerald Silver Tonearm Cable, Benz Glider Hi-Output Cart, running into a McCormack Micro Phono Drive MC Pre-Amp, then off into my McIntosh Pre.I would say the most significant area to concentrate on would be the Cartridge, and Phono Pre-Amp. when I bought the Glider, there wasn't what seemed to be much available in this level of performance, and price. As you know, there's literal dozens to choose from now.Certainly, the AQ PT-6 is not going to be as good an arm as a Graham, JMW, SME, but since you're already drilled for the PT-6, perhaps best to stick with it, and leave this area alone. I think if one put a $2K Cartridge on a PT-6 versus a Graham, of course the Graham will make the cartridge sound better, but the PT-6 will get you most the way there.A older Mk-IV Platter, such as I have upgraded to with standard bearing, and bought here on AudioGon for $450 will make a substantial improvement in performance, and it's an easy 10 minute swap, with no modifications needing to be made.Better Clamps help a small amount, but certainly not like a heavier platter would. I did go with AudioPoints too from MusicDirect, and these added a nice touch, and an improvement. And a homemade Sand Base would also help I'm sure isolate the table better. The Better Clamp may offer better performance on the lighter 6lb Jr Platter versus a heavier Mk-III-MK-IV Platter. Just be careful not to clamp the living daylights out of the Jr Platter. It has a pressed in Spindle-Bearing.I have a heavy thick BDR Test Puck lying around here if interested.Going through upgrades like new tonearm wiring may be a very slight improvement, and might be more of a waste. I myself would rather put that money towards a better cartridge. Of course, proper Cartridge set-up of VTA, VTF, and a good Pre-Amp, and proper loading of the MC Stage will go far for extracting the best any given combination will offer.A PLC, or SDS would too no doubt offer some improvement, but the SDS's cost no doubt surpasses the cost of the Turntable itself. If the speed appears right on with the Jr, one could probably get just as much an improvement in sound by plugging the table into a decent power conditioner. Naturally, the lower the hum-background noise, the better the noisefloor, and the better the overall sound. Mark |
About the differences of a Toneram Cable Upgrade, for my own personal set-up, I did notice a slight improvement in high frequency response, and high frequency clarity-definition with the Glider HO Cartridge when I switched from the factory stock AQ Cable that came with the Tonearm to the better, more expensive AQ Emerald Cable.
There are sure lots of fine tonearm cables, and this would be an area also where one will extract some improvement. Mark |
Agreed Opalchip, the Jr is susceptible to low frequency feedback. With a Sunfire Mk-IV True Sub in my own system, it wouldn't take much volume to get feedback.
I'm sure even at lower volumes, without adequate isolation, it would cause smearing, and make the cartridge's job a properly tracking a hard one.
My isolation problems were helped to a great degree with the AudioPoints, MK-IV Platter, and some tweaks to my rack, but I still have intentions at some near point in the future to make some sort of additional isolation base, along the lines of a Brightstar sand filled base.
Mark |
Howdy Tedd, Which particular version of the Glider do you have? The dabate of Vinyl vs digital will always be a never ending heated debate. I myself do find analogue more inviting, luring you into the music better. Cymbals for example within my own particular system sound more realistic, with more air, and openess. With Digital, cymbals always sounded to me to have a more compressed-clamped sound to them.
Sad thing is with the Jr now, every option-upgrade that was ever manufactured for this Table is now no longer in stock at VPI. Yes, I believe one can upgrade the Jr Platter to either a Scout Platter ($300) and I believe the MK-IV Platter is also still available last I seen ($700) I would assume both do come with the Bearing-Bearing Well, and also would assume these later Platter versions incorporate the better Inverted Bearing? Perhaps someone else can chime in on this?
As far as the better Acrylic Plinth with Stainless Steel Bottom Sheet Laminate, seperate Armboards for the Jr, this I am unsure of, and I've gotten the impression, that no, they are no longer being made-in stock. The Sorbothane Pucks are said to be still available.
Pete Ringle does make a Tonearm VTAF, which will retrofit easily to most arms (Including the AQ PT-6) with the VPI Jr's Plinth, and make VTA adjustments on the fly a breeze.
The SAMA Motor might still be an option available, and although the stock motor is not bad, I'm sure a good improvement could be made with the more massive SAMA.
Available too, is the SDS Controller.
Of course, Platter Clamps are still available from VPI in a couple of versions, and of course my buddy DJ Casser at Black Diamond Racing still manufactures a massive One Piece Clamp for the Threaded VPI Spindles.
AudioPoints can still be gotten to replace the Rubber Feet, and there's still a good availability of aftermarket sources for Stands-Sand Filled Bases, Butcher Block Tables-etc. |
Hi Dreadhead, Yes, I agree, I found out the same thing personally when surfing the MusicDirect Site, and saw no listing of the small 10-32 Audiopoints for the HW-19.
Living in Chicago basically all my life up until 3 years ago, I know Bess at MusicDirect personally, so I thought I'd give Bess a toll free call, and sure enough, they had them in stock, but be prepared for a nice sticker shock. The 4 AudioPoints came to $91.96, and the 4 brass coupling Discs another $27.96 Mark |
Hi Brusson, Hmm, What I personally found myself, was more, or less the exact opposite.
I believe my second hand Mk-IV upgraded Platter to be an older version as well, weighing in at axactly 18lbs.
While the Mk-IV Platter I had gotten had a much more sturdy, larger diameter Bearing, and Bearing Well, versus the original Jr Platter, I had noticed the Spindle itslef to be just a tad shorter than the Jr.
Both were 1/4"-20 threaded for Clamps. The Jr Bearing Well I had appeared to have a Brass Bushing at the top near the Bearing Well Flange, While my MK-IV Platter Bearing Well, has a Bushing made out of some sort of Black material, and I'm assuming it is Delrin, and not some type of Metal.
I'm almost positive that all Jr Platters had the bearing-spindle pressed into the Platter, while the Mk-IV Platter, such as I have, the Platter just sits on top of the Bearing-Bearing Flange, and it's massive weight keep eveything coupled up.
I notice on my MK-IV Platter itself, 3 Drilled Holes in its center, with three Metal Pins-Screws installed (The supposed 3-point support system I guess), which appear to be threaded into-through the Platter, and with Allen Head screw heads on the top-side of the Platter. Mine appear to be perfectly flush with the underside of the platter so I could not gain any spindle length by screwing in-adjusting the pins. No doubt probably not a good idea to monkey with anyway, as one would probably wind up with Platter Wobble.
I was under the premonition that later versions of the MK-IV Platters were 20lbs, and then also moved on to an Inverted Bearing? Which is yours? Mark |
Hi Brusson, My VPI MK-IV All Black Platter is not press fit to the Spindle, and yes, mine also has a cork ring on its underside, and this no doubt is to cover the Lead Ring that must be glued in to the underside of the Platter. When I say Spindle, I'm talking about what shows above the top of the Platter, and is threaded for the Clamp, and not the underside-Bearing End.
I am unsure exactly what you have there, and I'm certainly not an authority on VPI, and their history, and changes in the HW-19 product line.
I have see pics of Mk-III Platters that were a combination of Aluminum, and Black Acrylic, MK-III's that were all Black Acyrlic, and I believe all the Mk-IV Platters were all Black Acrylic, none being a combo of Aluminum/Acrylic.
This could be a very early version Mk-IV, or a Mk-III Platter you have? Only way to tell would be to give Mike a call at VPI. I'm sure he knows much more than I. Mark |
Hi Tedd,
The Jolida JD9 sounds like a nice unit, especially for the money, as i did a bit of searching here on A-Gon, and a bit online to see what all the bustle was about :-)
I myself wouldn't mind giving a unit such as this a try, but I'm fearing that it won't be a very compatible unit with my hi-output 1.9Mv Benz Glider, with internal impedance of 85 ohms?
I see some specs listed for the unit, but as far as deviating from these factory set adjustments to make it compatible with my Glider, I have no idea?
Do you remember what gain setting was used on the JD9, how do they adjust, and is there any mention of perhaps any alteration from the factory pre-set gain, and loading settings? Does the JD9 use a Wall Wart, or has its own internal power supply?
As Nasgarch recommended, he has stated that ideal loading for my Glider should be around 2.2K give or take.
If anyone else has the JD9, please feel free to jump in. thanks, BTW, I'm presently using a McCormack Micro Phono Drive.Mark |
