Try contacting www.madisound.com. They have drivers and probably good advice.
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I agree with Sean. Call and ask Mad and PE. You basically want to get something that is close to what you are taking out and/or study up so you can make appropriate changes which can be challenging. The existing tweeter was likely matched with a pad (to level match the sound volume) and crossover (control roll-off)to match it to the woofer. Nothing sounds worse than asking a tweeter to go lower than it wants to.
Did you read the primers on speaker and crossover design at partsexpress? My recollection is that they are fairly good. They spell out the basic issues.
Also if you ask at a diy speaker board like the Madisound forum or diyaudio.com you might get someone with experience right on point. This can't be the first of these tweeters have been replaced.
Sometimes (most) you cannot trust the mnf. numbers.
Those are good suggestions, thanks so much.
I opened up the enclosure and removed the tweeter last night. It is surely dead. The crossover is very minimal. A small, but well constructed coil, and a single cap. No board, nothing fancy, anchored to the wall with a wire-tie and screw. I cant see how many Microfarad the cap is, but according the the manufacturer data it is crossed at 2.3khz/12db. So I am looking for tweeters that have fairly flat response to around 1.8khz or lower.
The tweeter is about 15mm across the driver face and appears to be a poly dome, not metal as I originally thought. From its size/construction I would surmise that it has difficulties reproducing the lower end of the spectrum that the crossover is asking it to.
Its good to have a large flat freq range but there are other things you need to check too. For example, a driver will have it's own inpedance that reacts with the filter. The two component filter you have is made to work with your old tweeter's electrical characteristics.
If you look at this 2nd Order High Pass Butterworth Filter which seems to be what you describe (a cap in series with the driver and a coil accross the driver), you see in hte formula that the tweeter's inductance is part of the formula. The values of the passive components are tied to a particular tweeter's inductance at the xover point.
In any event, it has been quite a while since I did much with 2 way speakers and I ain't no expert. The point is that there a few other issues too. The forums above are good places.
Thanks again Clueless, I submit that you are not nearly as clueless as your name may suggest. =) That was a great link.
I have chosen a Morel MDT-29 1-1/8" soft dome. The FS is 900hz and it appears to a good match for the 2nd order 2.3khz crossover. With flat response from 1.8khz and an SPL of 89db. Not to mention it is an exact fit in the unusual counter-sunk rear baffle mounted layout.
I will let you know how I like them after break in.
Distortion, if you have not purchased the tweeters yet, check out the Kinima tweeters that are for sale on ebay. These are a fabric dome tweeter used in the Kinima G1 speakers from Zetag corp. They are only $35 and probably the best you will find under a $100.
Go to ebay, Kinima, click G4. Go to the sellers store for info. I have purchased speakers, drivers and parts from him and they are the best you can get for your project. Check out the spec sheet for info.
The Morels came in. They are a perfect fit it the existing cutout and sound teriffic. Smoother, more detail, without the harshness the original tweets exhibited (Paradigm Titan V2).
RGC, Partsexpress didnt have the exact replacement, they claimed only Paradigm markets the parts. Paradigm said the same thing. A single replacement tweeter from Paradigm was $55.00. The pair of Morels from Partsexpress was $70.00.
If you have Titans or similar Paradigms and want to replace/repair tweeters, the Morel MDTs work and sound great.