Tweeter absolutely silent. What could be the reason?

Sunilood,
Sounds like you have an open vioce coil on the tweeter.They usually are the first and easyest to blow or open. If your speaker is not fused (check on Back Or Xover)Then repacement is your only option. Since you do not state the brand name you will have to get a repacement from that manufacture. There is a company called Madison Speaker company in I believe Wis. that sells brand name replacement coils or drivers. Email me if you need a # for either. Gary. [email protected]

To "pop" fuses, you would have to have been driving the amplifier past the point of operation that it was comfortable playing in. As such, the amp was probably clipping ( heavy distortion ) and that is what blew the tweeter.

While it might not have sounded like "heavy distortion" at the time, the increased high frequency content and associated power output is what did the tweeter in. As such, it is possible that you have sustained either crossover damage ( blown capacitor ) or the tweeter has what is called an open voice coil. In most situations, it is the tweeter that does "give up the ghost". I would contact the manufacturer of your speakers and see what they suggest.

Something else to think about is your amplification situation. If you continue to do this, not only will you have speaker problems, you'll also have amplifier problems due to the amount of strain that you are placing on it. You either need more efficient speakers, a more powerful amplifier or reduced listening levels. Either way, you aren't in a "good" situation and it needs to be examined before things get both frustrating and expensive. Sean
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hello, It can be an open coil but I would unscrew the back of your speaker cabinet and check that the tweeter wires are in place. Maybe one of the wires came undone which can be caused be vibration. Some speakers have a harness from the tweeter to the croosover and some are hard wired. I would check that before making any move on buying a new tweeter. Good Luck Dan

I have had same problem before. If you can, take the tweeter
driver out of cabinet and measure by omhs. If your speaker
range in 8 ohms-the tweeter must be in the range from 6 to
8 ohms...If your tweeter drive in that range, replace the
cross over pcb.

Easier to check for an open voice-coil by touching a 1.5v battery to the terminals and listening for scratchy sounds.
Tweeters are pretty go-nogo devices. Their sensitivities unfortunately vary dramatically within most production schemes, so don't be surprised if a replacement tweeter results in a change in spectral tilt, necessitating a resistance pad on EITHER of the resultant pair to reach equivalence. It can be a pain.... Good luck.

Abbe Lowell is the advising counsel?