I use Singer sewing machine oil in my roxan zerxes and never had a problem....anyone else doing similar? Remember, I'm not advising anyone else to do this, simply saying it's okay in the roxan....cheers, Bluenose
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"It is essential to keep the bearing assembly fully flooded with clean oil at all times. A high-quality, clear and non-viscous oil is optimum. ... Don't use thick, viscous or exotic oils as these might attack the bearing bush linings. Sewing machine oil is a recommended lubricant, obtainable widely throughout the world." Simon Yorke, Simon Yorke Designs.
There are many in the industry that recommend Mobil One synthetic for this purpose. It is what I use on my turntables air bearing between the surfaces that (nearly) meet.
A synthetic will not congeal, change viscosity or diminish its lubrication properties over long periods of time, even when unattended for years.
The version to use is 5W-30W. At room and bearing operation temperatures the viscosity will not be much different than sewing machine oil but has the additional properties that a synthetic provides.
I have been refurbishing an old Thorens TD165 and decided to stick with Singer "sewing machine" oil as a safe bet (not their cheaper all purpose machine oil). Some of the synthetic oils contain Teflon and/or other materials, which has been said can break down and change into an abrasive with time (this is just heresay from the web, mind you). They sometimes contain other preservatives, which might be iffy depending on what material(s) the oil comes comes into contact with, like the TT belt and spindles. As far as I know the Singer oil has no negatives as long as you are not using it in a "grease" bearing and in this case it is not thick enough. Better yet is to use whatever oil the manufacturer recommends for your bearing as it was designed with this particular oil (and the weight of it) in mind, I would hope. I am not saying that all synthetic oils are bad, just that caution is advised in selecting the right one (don't just use anything).
Another synthetic I think worth investigating is Redline. They offer the usual weights 5w30, 10w30, etc. However, they also offer gear/bearing oil in various weights which is said to be safe with rubber. This oil is the MTL, MT90 and 75/90NS. They are sulfur free also. The MTL is about the same viscosity as 10w30, the MT90 about a 10w40. They have all the low friction properties of synthetics in fact I prefer the shifting in my car with the Redline after trying Mobil 1, Valvoline and others. I don't know if there is sulfur in motor oil. There is in gear oil. Jeff
This from Van den Hul's FAQ's. I have no idea where to get it from?
171 Q: Do I need to change the oil in the bearing of my turntable ?
A: Each bearing wears in a way. So a change of oil after a good cleaning of all mechanical parts involved is an option. In my own turntable I change the bearing oil every 2 years.
Lately I use an oil doped with ceramic (zirconium oxide) marbles (1 micron diameter each). This means that there are always very small marbles between the rotating and stationary metal parts. So no metal-to-metal contact anymore. And that is what we need after all.
(This oil works for all non air-cushioned metal-to-metal turntable bearings and if requested is available from us).
I actually bought a 30ml bottle of vdH Zirconium TT spindle bearing oil as mentioned by dougwebb. It is insanely expensive -- now about $150 I think. It's great stuff though. I'm using it on my direct drive Goldmund Studietto, and there's absolutely no mechanical noise. Obviously, I've got more than I'll ever use, so if anyone wants to try some, I'm willing to sell a couple ml (2 cc) to a few people for, oh say $20, which should provide two full oil changes for most TT bearings!
OK, some beginner questions if you all don't mind. First, how do I get the old oil out? Second, how do I get the new oil in? Third, how much oil are we talking about? Finally, how do I know when I've put the right amount in? Your help is appreciated. (Oh, I have a Thorens TD-320, if that makes a difference.)
Assuming the platter comes off with spindle attached, there are still basically two types.
!. Bottom end of spindle ground to a half-sphere (be very careful to protect it!) which rides on a flat bearing surface at the bottom of the shaft, or:
2. A flat-ended spindle which rides on a ball bearing at the bottom of the shaft.
If you have the second kind, you need to get the ball-bearing out. The best and least complicated way is a magnetic screw holder/retractor which you can get at any hardware or auto-supply store. I've also used a short length of flexible tubing and by sucking on one end, you can hold the ball bearing long enough to get it out of the shaft.
I use Everclear grain alcohol (available at the liquor store and great for use in DIY record cleaning solution).
Get or make some large, wooden stick cotton swabs. Clean out/ soak up the old lubricant, and then get it really clean using fresh swabs dampened with the alcohol. It drys pretty fast.
You'll need to put in enough new oil (about 0.5 to 1.0 cc) to cover the (re-installed) ball bearing, or in the case of the round ended spindle, to the top of the rounded portion. Smear a thin film on the spindle (but not in the shaft or you'll have excess oil seeping out) and replace the platter and spindle.
The platter may not settle all the way down at first due to compressed air in the shaft but it will eventually. Give it a little spin occasionally to speed things up!