2-4 of these work better.. Very Rare.. 1000 watts all night 5000 watt burst. Very low distortion too. Under 5% <15hz - 150hz optional 250hz.
Try a sub a third in the back
I’ll share something I stumbled upon in the off chance it transforms your listening experience as it did mine. I purchased a rel s/510 while they were on sale to replace a lesser sub. First, the sub is remarkable. I thought it would just add bass extension. I had no idea it would improve the sound stage so much. But now I had 3 subs with absolutely no space in the front of the room to place the third. I planned to sell it. If you like to tinker like me with your system, you probably would have had the same thought I finally did: connect the third sub for the hell of it. In part, the idea was inspired by the long and very good article someone on here linked to about subs: soundoctor.com that talks about putting a sub at the back of the room for HT. The lower the frequency, the more non directional the sound. So, having a sub behind me should be okay in a two-speaker setup. The worst that might happen, I thought was that I might shake my house off it’s foundation. But what happened was absolutely unexpected. The sound in the room became amazingly three dimensional. This is not hyperbole. I have a good system and especially with the new Rel sub, there was good width, height, and depth to the sound. But the effect of adding the third sub was to double or triple the depth into the room. I didn’t believe it so I turned the rear sub on and off, repeating the songs. I’ve done this for a week because sometimes new experiences don’t hold up over time—a product of wishful thinking. This one has lasted. I will describe the change this way. Without the rear sub, the vocals were centered, other instruments were placed around the front of the room—some further away than others. Adding the rear sub stretched the centered voice in front of me from 2d to 3D, like someone was in the room, or better, I was in the vocalist’s room. Imagine taking a photo of the singer and stretching it into a 3-dimensional figure in front of you. It’s like that. Although my previous system had good depth before, with the third sub it sounded like I was swimming in the music. there was an exceptional separation of the instruments around and over me not just in front of me. I won’t go on because results will vary. But if you like to tinker and you have a third sub in the house, give it a go. I hope it turns out as holographically for you as it did for me. (Details: I connected the Rel using the line in from my power amp and two RCA outs on my Dac (it also has XLR outs that I use) to connect the other subs.)
Showing 4 responses by oldhvymec
hilde45 if you really like the REL subs another sub that will really reach deep is a VMPS, Tallboy < 16hz. They were/are used in the NASA simulation lab. I used 4 in the 80/90s. They would and could crumble your house. They run a 12 and 15" active and are tuned with a second passive 15" They were set up with a HP filter to. They are tuned to the room through, Putty Pinching. Perfect integration without digital correction.. Pretty cool actually. 50-100 sand bags worked the best. The slot glued to the floor so to speak.. Ceiling will work too. :-) I have sub columns that have sound pressure coming from 4 (X2) of the 6 surfaces. They are made to go a against the wall in the middle of room, either side of the seated position. You only need 2. With 4 columns people would start having nose bleeds and then concussions. They are 20cf 60" tall 400 lbs cabinets. Direct coupled to 12,000 watt pro amps. Best cone control I've ever seen at 8 ohms medium price super refined reference drivers. With no ports 15 hz. With ports < 10hz. Plates will fall and screws will unscrew though.. LOL |
m-db621 posts
oldhvymec, this seems an interesting technique which I know nothing about. Is it possible to explain a bit further or provide a reference or a link to this method? <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. There are two approaches to passive radiators. One is a standard cone with a suspension added and conventional butyl rubber surrounds. Then there is a lighter mass version. The cone is lighter and so is the suspension. Normally the surround is foam too. There is a reason. With a light moving mass the key is to add enough fixed weight to match the port frequency's lowest point with the space and active drivers used. Now to go below that point we add non hardening putty, (Mortite putty is the best) to the point of BOOM in the room. Now comes the tricky part. You remove mass (putty) the size of a peppercorn at a time until the boom goes away. Your single sub unit has been added and blended to the perfect (Q)uality, with your amp, your mains, you cables and your room. NO electrical correction of any kind, digital or analog. Purely mechanical, just like me. Now correct your room mechanically. Passive materials. You absorb the bass, you let the bass escape, you control the bass with (Q)uality control. Now you can add just slight correction, vs full blown DSP room killing correction.. I hate it. Direct coupled subs that use active crossovers and (Q)uality control are pretty amazing. Very close to a DBA servo sub system, SQ wise. One of my bass system uses 10-20 drivers, there is a lot of cubic inches of cone material, but perfectly controlled and tuned to any gear, cables or room. GRs servo subs and my SAT Bass columns direct coupled. No crossovers.. There is a small set on my Virtual page.. It's my ways, they work very well. I like the VMPS columns. I wish someone would make them again. I need 20 acres, a wearhouse, and a mule.. Regards |
I would also like to know how to hook up a 3rd sub. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1. You can split the left or right low level signal out. 2. You can split the low level sub out. 3. You can come off the main speakers or amps speaker terminals with certain plate amps. REL is one. 4. Certain sub plate amps have a RCA/XLR out to daisy chain. 5. Install a 1 in, 4 out, not switched, split and fixed, low level out. 6. Install an active crossover. 2 in 6 out. DCX 2496. Will add everything up to 12 db of gain for any bass contour through a PEQ and or GEQ 7. Wireless 8. Passive. 1 large power amp running 2-4 passive sub enclosures. Debra, or Swarm. I ran 4 Tallboys on 1 Mcintosh MC2500. They would crumble a house with a single MC2500 power amp. You could fry eggs on that amp, and it just sounded better and better and better. 220/240 vac power supply. It cost 25% more to run it at 120 VAC vs 220 VAC. Heavy piece of $hit. Hated moving that amp (s). How's that? There is a few way. If you give me a while I can come up with some more. Regards
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