Hello Brad- re: My other thread- Thanks for your confidence. Not having ever had my hands, or ears, on a pair of your speakers; I can't make any specific recommendations. Have you taken a look inside the cabinet and determined of what quality the crossover components and internal wire might be? What aspects of the sound are you desiring to alter? Have you already experimented with room placement, toe-in, room sound treatment, etc? Where are you located?
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Thnaks Rodman99999 for getting back to me. To answer your questions, I have not determined the quality of the internal components. In terms of capacitors,inductors, etc. I have no knowledge of what makes one better than the other. This of course is something I probably could bone up on but time isn't on my side right now for that kind of project. I am not unhappy with what I have in sound, but researching with what time I have, how I could improve sonics. There are a few things I plan to implement as time and money permits, such as Platform isolation. I have been collecting mapleshade footers and heavy hats as they become available. I need yet to purchase some maple platforms. Tube rings, upgraded fuse, rectifier tubes, independant power to the wall and upgraded recepticals, are tweaks I also plan. So you can see I have a way to go yet. I am limited in what space I can use for my music room
My stereo resides in the family room, which connects to the kitchen. I think that there is some advantage in this being that my listening seat is far from the wall behind it. I feel that this reduces reflections from the back wall getting back to my ears. Furniture and having to place my systtem components on one of the side walls are disadvantages. Although sometimes I thing that having components in the middle of it all would harm center stage sound field, but I am sure that the hight of the components in relation to the speakers/drivers and the distance they are behind the speakers all play a roll. In my case the stereo would have to go infront of the fireplace which doesnt work for my wife or to tell you the truth myself either.
I was thinking that you would have recommendations regarding what may be the best in cross over components, etc. I realize now, that may be asking to much of you without you first knowing speaker types,loads, impedance values, etc.
Thanks again for your investment in time to answer my question(s). I hope I can return the favor someday.
Based on the fact that you added a supertweeter, I feel it's safe to assume that you aren't into the, "warm" or "laid-back" sound that some embrace. I can thus recommend either V-cap Teflon/tin or copper foil caps, which are both very liquid and resolving. You should easily be able to identify the values, when you see the crossover. It's highly unlikely that Triangle used anything comparable, in the construction of their systems. You might consider replacing the internal wiring, with Kimber's 8TC, or 4TC as a lower-cost option. That's UNLESS Triangle used something equal in performance(again-not likely). Those should result in a more realistic midrange, although the burn-in might take awhile. When you get ready; I can recommend a way to burn-in the caps, prior to installation. Replace your 5AR4 rectifier tubes with NOS Mullard(Blackburn) GZ34's, before you do anything else. See what changes this swap makes. Your power amp already has Fast Recovery diodes, so- it SHOULD respond very favorably to HI-FI Tuning's Supreme fuses, and a power cord upgrade. I personally like Synergistic Research PCs, on my higher current draw components. Whether you bring dedicated service to the room, or do the fuse/PC upgrade first; one will make the other much more noticeable, regarding presentation. I brought two paralleled 10AWG runs(on a 20A breaker) to my outlets(equiv to 4AWG). Of course; my run was 125ft and damn near everything upstairs was wired to the same 15A breaker previously. Whatta difference that made! Some of this stuff is easily performed(though, perhaps, not exactly cheap), and should make noticeable improvements in your system's overall musicality(less grain/more organic & liquid). I've got a system that is larger than what my pitiful room should contain(result of an expensive divorce). If you can treat the wall behind your listening position with sound absorbing materials; you will enjoy better sound staging and a smoother in-room response(less standing waves/slap echo). No WAF issues, so my wall is mostly covered with Auralex(LENRDs in the corners). NOS Siemens ECC82 & ECC83 tubes(pre and power amps), from the 50's or early 60's, will also provide you with a VERY clean, but ballsy and extended response. Have fun!
You might want to take a look at this site. http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
Tony has done a lot of capacitor comparisons with his speakers. I may be inclined to take off the super-tweeter and try replacing the coupling caps in the Prima Luna gear. I believe they use Solen? Those can easily be improved on.
I've heard the Triangle Cellius speakers and they did not have a problem reproducing the top end.
In addition to the equipment referenced above, I have done some tube rolling and ended up with all 12AU7 Tungsram in the preamp,amp, and CDp. The signal tubes are Telefunken 12AX7 in the Pre and CDP and Bugleboy in the AMP. I replaced the power tubes with KT88 Gold Lions. I have tried several different types NOS and current production, and keep going back to the Gold Lions. After further research I may want to try the Psvane or Shuguang Treasures.
I have replace all power cords. Mostly all Acoustic Zen Tsunami II and a couple of PS Audio, and one Crystal Clear 6n silver from the wall to the Equitec son of Sam JR.
The equitec if for the front end only. I plug my amp and sub into a different line/outlet and unplug them when not in use. When I upgrade the house power wiring/outlets, I will probably get a regenerator or some sort of power conditioner at that time.
Since I get th emost enjoyment from my Rega P5 I think I will incorporate some upgrades here first. I have the upgraded subplatter and acrylic platter from groovetracer, and I am using a Lyra Dorian. The next ting I want to do is
position it on an isolation platform. I have some mapleshade
footers and iso blocks. I am trying to figure the best thickness to use to allow for the best drainage into the platform, but not so heavy that it would just reflect the vvibrations back to the turntable. I am goind to isolate the platform from the rack with mapleshade isoblocks.
I will get back to you as time permitts. Forward youre-mail tto [email protected] and I will send some photos
PS: all the things you mentioned to do including the rectifier tubes are on my list