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Trans-Fi Terminator Tonearm: 2019 Update

In reading a few related posts on linear tracking tonearm, in general,  and Trans-Fi Terminator , in particular, I thought I would give a brief update of the Terminator.

I purchased the arm directly from Andrey in Moscow two months ago. From what I understand, Andrey has taken over production after Vic's retirement. What I received is the most up-to-date version of the arm with the carbon fibre wand and brass counterweights, the direct wire leads from cartridge to  phono amp, and a new brass manifold ( not evident from the main web-site). Both the wand and the new manifold are Andrey's contribution to the continued refinement of the Terminator.

Also,  please visit this site: https://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/2017/04/15/terminator-tonearm-new-arm-mount/. This gentlemen from NZ has developed a new arm mount for the Terminator which advanced the arm's sonics even further. It was reading through the the development of this new arm mount that convinced me to order the Terminator after much prior research. I did not purchase the arm mount from NZ as it would not readily fit my Verdier La Platine, instead Andrey made a custom arm mount. It is in essence a two point support mount rather than a single point support rod that is commonly used. 

My previous arm was a SME V of 1990's vintage mounted with a ZYX airy. The Terminator is several notch above the SME V. All the accolades given to the Terminator seem justified. My main point in writing is that the new developments by Andrey, i.e. the carbon fibre wand and the newest brass manifold, seem to improve upon the Terminator even more ( see link above ). This is the news that I wanted to share with existing Terminator owners. I asked Andrey to start a blog on all the new stuff that is happening with the arm, but it seems that he is busy making 'things'!




ledoux1238

Showing 6 responses by dnicol

dnicol
19 posts
 
I've had the transfi tonearm for over 5 years now. Used a Danner AP-8 (Sera/Top Fin). Out of the box it never had > 1.6 PSI all the way up at the pump. But the arm seemed OK around 1 PSI anyway. Only used a 1 liter tank near the pump.

Decided to revisit all this, had a feeling the Danner was never really good enough, not that I needed more PSI, but seemed like it wasn't optimal.

Reading posts about large and multiple smoothing tanks. But that many large tanks seemed like only something like the Hiblow pump could handle. So I tried a 6 gallon tank, using a Fluval Q2. Out of the box this had 4 PSI at the pump. But it could not push any air out of that size tank for some reason, no leaks either. So went to a 2 gallon, then to the 1 liter tank which is now ~ 3 feet from arm. The Fluval was able to push thru those OK, albeit it loses ~.4 PSI by the time it reaches the arm, which is fine. Must be the amount of back pressure these pumps can handle, the Danner seemed weak comparatively.

As others reported, the extra smoothing tank and stronger pump made a very nice difference. I may do a Hiblow someday, and get the 6 gallon tank running. But for now, I wish I would have spent the extra $$$ sooner and did this right.
dnicol
19 posts
 
"I am a bit curious as to why your pump cannot work with the 6 gallon tank."

Let me clear that up a bit, the 6 gallon tank does eventually fill, but it takes 4-5 minutes for it to show max pressure at the outlet with a gauge. So I decided that it seemed to be too much back pressure on these little aquarium pumps. Moving to a pond pump would of course take care of that problem, but there's the overkill aspect as well. Currently a 2 gallon and a 1 liter tank fill much faster, and is likely much easier on the pump, and still provide plenty of reserve. Moving the smaller 1 liter tank very close to the table seemed to help as well.

My take on the sonic effects, is while the smoothing seems beneficial, (vs pulsing, although the Fluval pump pulses much less than Danner types), I wonder if having all that reserve tank air is helping as well, not relying so much on the pump being consistent. The consistency comes from a full large tank itself.
dnicol
19 posts
 
@ledoux1238,

Reading your posts about the VTF changing due to the wire.

I use Cardas 34x4 "Clear" Tonearm Cable. Very very light and flexible. I haven't noticed VTF change due to the little wire holder clip on the manifold using this cable. The cable I got from Vic, the stiffer litz that you could literally spread out the strands and it would stay, now that sort of wire might cause some changes, or even other types, but the Cardas is literally almost like a wet noodle.
dnicol
19 posts
 
It seems that finding the "optimal" PSI or pressure for the manifold is not that simple.

Adjusting pressure down until it skips or mistracks, then adding pressure until it's gone, may not be exactly optimal, since adding even more pressure than this test calls for changes the sound and the soundstage, and even bass response, IME.

Certainly if you hear air noise when setting stylus in a stationary groove would be too much pressure.

You also can't throw out a number like .3 or 1 PSI, because the weight of the cartridge, mounting parts, brass weights on pivot points, aluminum or carbon wand, will change the amount of PSI needed.

Adjusting by ear for now.

How do others do this?
dnicol
19 posts
 
About heavier carts, I had a hard time getting an ~10 gram cart to sound right, the other problem is it has very low compliance, about 10.

The only way I found was to just add mass. Didn't want to use the carbon wand at first since it was so light, which may not be a great match.

I started by adjusting the manifold away from spindle so I could mount the cartridge almost to the very end of the wand, keeping stylus in line with spindle. Then after much trial and error, adding ~12 grams on top of cart, (using a mix of stainless steel and brass) and then using ~22-24 grams of counterweights, (again mixing different materials), this worked very well for me. Moving the counter weights closer to the pivot points did not work well for me, contrary to popular opinion. My counter weights are all the way to the end. Adding weight to the cart end first, then figuring out how much counterweight is needed if placed at furthest point, worked best, this way I should be getting more effective mass/inertia as well.

I did try adding weight over the pivot points, but that did not seem to really buy me anything.

I believe that a very low compliance cartridge needs mass, and apparently the tomahawk is suited more for medium to higher compliance carts. Coupled with a heavier cartridge seems to make it tougher to dial in as well. It has been easier to get higher compliance carts, and lighter weight carts, to sing on this arm, for sure.

So using that method, now I'm using the carbon wand and it's fantastic.

dnicol
19 posts
 
@ledoux1238,

Well, I did try a bit more weight on the cart end, but I just settled on 12 since it was sounding good. Arriving at that weight was just a lot of trial and error, didn't happen overnight. I didn't think it would be a good idea to go too much higher, but never know, I'm always tweaking.

My thinking was more about a cart compliance problem than cart weight problem. It seemed to me that a stiff cantilever is going to need more mass or weight to trace the groove properly, more than a higher compliance or softer/springier cantilever. Before adding any weight, I increased the VTF and it seemed to help a smidge, so I figured the cart is not tracking like it should, needs weight, so that's what led me down that road.

But I wouldn't sweat adding weights. Besides, everything has a sound to it, it seems, aluminum, carbon fiber, even wood.
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