WOW
Pretty snobby over here in vinyl land.... guess I'll just crawl back to my cave and light the tubes. |
Sorry. I'm not being snobby. I just don't understand exactly what you're asking. |
Not snobby, but you are probably in a minority when it comes to this type of DIY project here. Maybe the best thing to do is study turntable/arm design and do the math etc so that your project has some rationale behind it. There are so many variables that go into a successful arm design that it becomes a daunting task for any of us to take you by the arm and lead you though the tangle of calculations and considerations.
What is your expectation here? Were you simply trying to find a kindred spirit who has also been through this process? |
Sorry, I was a bit flummoxed by the question. You can use any arm you like on a Rek-o-kut. Most arms will mate to most turntables - it's the arm-cartridge interface (and cartridge-phonostage interface) that brings up more variables.
The only exception to this would be if you were mounting a super-heavy arm on a suspended table, or if you had a plinth that didn't allow you enough room to mount a specialized arm (tangential or 12").
So to answer your question - mount any arm you like - just make sure to find the correct mounting distance. The database at vinylengine.com will help you plan. |
Not doing a diy tonearm at this point, just want some input on tone arms in general to help me select one to use with this adventure. I guess i could post this in the giant home depot thread.
Thanks and keep on keepin vinyl alive! |
I completely agree with Patrickamory - at vinylengine you will find some very good information, DIY friendly and some very knowledgeable friendly folk ! |
I am looking for advice on arm length and types of arms. I have been searching but have not found the right articles yet.
Having owned my current table for 17 years, have not had the pleasure of interacting with many different arms to learn about them. If a tonearm is a tonearm... why so many and why the big price spread, what extra do you get for the 1k or 2k arm?
Cheers |
You should be able to pick up an OEM Rega RB-250 or RB-300 for under $400. They are very nice simple tonearms and are fun to tweak. You seem to be into the DIY so you could buy a RB-250 and then do a rewire and get an upgraded endstub and counter weight as the urge hits you. There is a very interesting thread that was going around some time ago about the strange tonearm tweak for Rega arms that looked really cool.
An used Audioquest PT-6 or Sumiko should fit your budget too.
Cheers,
Jim |
Thanks for recomendations, I will read on and I welcome any other input. |
We're not saying a tonearm is a tonearm... just that with your turntable you should be able to mount any arm that you want.
My personal faves are the 12" arms based on the classic designs of the '60s... original Ortofons or SMEs, or more recently Shindo and EMT. You could also try Ikeda if you like a more modern sound. |
11-30-07: Patrickamory
...My personal faves are the 12" arms based on the classic designs of the '60s... original Ortofons or SMEs, or more recently Shindo and EMT. You could also try Ikeda if you like a more modern sound.
I think a 12" arm for a Rek-O-Kut has a certain poetic rightness about it. |
Patrickamory,
I am seeking a tonearm that will have a classic look and cohesiveness with the Rek o kut, and deliver the sound quality that this super heavy plinth table should be capable of.(if i do my home work correctly)
With respect to length what is the advantage of the 12" over shorter arms?
The way I see this project is to find a shorter arm that mounts on the platform like the original, or get long arm and mount on plinth. the first one giving a more classic look, but this may not be the best option for ultimate performance.
Thanks |
Hello, I am going through the same thing, I bought a Rek O kut B-12GH and will build a plinth. Ideally, I would like to find an arm that would be a drop in replacement, I need to go to vinyl.engine before I start enlarging the existing hole. I have read conflicting reports as to what is best when it comes to mounting the arm, top plate mounting vs plinth mounting. It has been suggested that the table can be mounted in the plinth by turning the table so the top of the top plate is now located on the side where the arm is usually located and the arm is then easily mounted in the plinth, hope that makes sense. My table came with a ROK arm but it had some problems and the bearings are really sloppy. I may go for a Rega and enlarge the existing hole to get the correct spindle to bearing dimensions, plus the arm is cheap and can be upgraded. One of the important things when building one of these tables is to get the Idler wheel rebuilt by Ed Crocket at Vintage Electonics, total cost is approx. $30.00. I want to build up the table first and listen to it then have the Idler wheel rebuilt to see what the improvement is. What materials are you going to use for the plinth? Another site with good info is Roktips. Good luck.
Phill |
Phill,
Great to hear form you!
I know about turning the deck 90 deg. but I am really seeking a look and feel that prevents this. There are some arms the can be mounted to the orininal location with some minor work. I am also considering more drastic mods to that corner area, or applying some yankee engineering to make it look more like it integrates into the deck and plinth if using a longer arm. I really like the look of the deck and want to compliment this.
I am using birch ply and mdf (free scrap from a cabinet shop next door to our shop), very econmical. I would like to end up around 50 to 60 lbs or even greater. I am also going to do a 3 layer platform under the the plinth, ply,mdf,ply.
Keep me informed of your journey also.
Thanks
Ed |
Honestly Ed I think if an arm is within a few mm when mounted in the existing arm hole it will be OK as long as the cartridge can still be adjusted. I used to have a Scheu Premier MK II table and It was said that it was OK to set the arm up within a 5 mm range. What arms do you know of that would be a direct drop in replacement? I can't wait to complete this project to see for myself what an Idler Drive can do, I've never heard one play before, it should be interesting.
Regards,
Phill |
Phill
I think the oe hole in the b12 I have is @ 8.25" or just over 209 mm. I think any arm under 225 could be made to fit and look quite good. The rega arms would most likely be ok but at the long end of the range. I am still collecting my data on some other arms before I make a decision. I may look for some used under rated tables,(good oe arms poor decks) to pull arms from and experiment, or I may decide to go for the gold, and find a really nice older arm like SME, Sumiko, Grace etc. |
