Tonearm for Teres turntable - approx $1000 - ??


I have way to much time to research for components for my new analog setup, and keep on thinking about new ways of spending my budget (which keeps increasing in size. :-( )

I have at least decided on the turntable - basically a Teres 160 - and the cartridge - Zyx R-100H.

I had decided on an Origin Live Silver tonearm,(with Twl's HiFi mod, of course,) too, but now I'm wavering about that decision. I can not afford to spend thousands of dollars on the tonearm, but can probably stretch my budget to about $1000. Used is fine... Are the Hadcock tonearms (which seem to be about the same price as the OL Silver) any good? Better than or equal to the OL Silver? Is there something better I should look for, or should I just stick with the OL Silver?
oakiris

Showing 7 responses by dougdeacon

Oakiris,
I don't have Raul's knowledge about the history of tonearms, but from what I've seen and heard I agree with him.

I've not used a Moerch but I have used a Graham 2.2. IMO a new one is one of the most overpriced components around, particularly since you have to buy a separate phono cable. A new 2.2 + IC-70 actually lists for the same as my Tri-Planar. Some may disagree but IMO that amounts to a bad joke. The Graham may look cleaner and tidier, the paint job is better, but its superiority ends there.

Used Graham 2.x arms are now plentiful, thanks to the introduction of the Phantom, so you might bag one for cheap. However, if I had to choose between a 2.2 and a DP-6 with no chance to learn any more, I'd choose a DP-6. It's probably better, like Raul says, but even if it's just equal it's also less expensive, more flexible as to cartridges and much prettier!

Salectric's JMW-10/DP-6 comparison was interesting. "Richness" and "opacity" are not desirable traits in a component. "Rich" sounds nice at first, but it's really a polite word for "colored". That can get tiring before too long, and it's a pretty fair description of the Graham's sound too.
Gregg,

It's harder to spend $1,000 (effectively) than it is to spend $2,000!

Oakiris,
Remember, all I said is I'd take a chance on a DP-6 before I'd buy a 2.2. I haven't actually heard a DP-6 so that hardly constitutes a recommendation.

Of course Raul loves the DP-6 and Salectric gave you a useful comparison. If clarity and finesse are more important to you than richness and opacity, then apparently a DP-6 would suit you more than a JMW-10. I agree with C123666 that an unbroken arm cable is best, but none of these arms has that.
I can't think of any sub-$2K arm I'd clearly prefer to a DP-6, but my actual experience is fairly limited. The few arms I *know* I'd prefer all list for $3K and up. Maybe that makes the DP-6 a serious contender for best-in-class?

The DP-6's clumsy VTA adjustment can be addressed by ordering Chris's $200 VTA adaptor. It works pretty well provided your table is sited with convenient access beneath the armboard. (Ours isn't, so we need an arm with the VTA dial on top. AFAIK there are no sub-$2K arms with that feature.)

His point about the tactile nature of tonearms was nicely put. If you can fall in love with your tonearm and look forward to working with it, you'll play more music and enjoy it more. From that perspective a DP-6 may be the most attractive arm on the planet, except for maybe a Schroeder at 2-4x the cost.

In addition, a Moerch is so graceful, beautiful and obviously costly that few casual visitors would dare to touch it. That's a good thing for the health of your cartridges. My Tri-Planar has the same effect for different reasons. It has a certain robotic, Terminator-like "aesthetic". Most visitors seem to fear it'll chop off their finger if they get too close!

Doug
Holly,

I'm jealous. I nearly snagged a used DP-6 for our new Teres back in 2003, but somebody else grabbed it first. We got an OL Silver instead, since we couldn't stomach the price for a new DP-6. $2,000 for a tonearm?! (Oh, to be so naive again.)

Check out this site, a Danish Moerch dealer. Lots of good info and internal links. If you scroll down you can read the owners manual and even see a (euro) price list.

http://www.audiovision.dk/Moerch/moerch2.htm

For a ZYX with no integral headshell weight you'll want either a 9" blue, 9" Precision blue or 12" red armtube. I think I'd opt for the Precision myself. Cartridge/headshell coupling is critical, and that vestigial standard headshell just seems a bit dodgy. I think the designer won a battle with the engineer. Of course I'm known to favor geeky looking tonearms...

AFAIK the point of a longer armtube is to reduce tracing angle errors. That's fine in theory, but the ZYX's trace so well I'm not sure you'd benefit much. I've heard plenty of inner groove distortion on 9-10" arms with other cartridges, but never with any of my three ZYX's. Maybe Salectric can describe other advantages of the long arm.

C123666 suggested asking your seller about a continuous run of wire from the armtube connection to the phono plugs. Good idea. That would be better than a junction box + phono cable. It could even save you money.

This is going to be one nice sounding (and looking) rig. Friends and relatives will be amazed.
Raul,
Is there any risk that the high output voltage of a CDP could damage some phono cables? Obviously they're designed to carry 1/10th the voltage or even less.

I don't know, just asking...
Doug
I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm not soldering anything to my headshell clips!

Some people could probably do that safely and also be confident they could remove them later with no residue, but I'm not that good with a soldering iron.

I'd either DIY some jumpers or buy an adapter like Dave suggested. Or just wait 100 years. ;-)