Tone arm holes do not line up - best way to attach TT?

I bought a new Reed tone arm (3p 12" Tonearm Ruthernium) and the holes do not line up on my Haas table. I'm new to vinyl ... can I attach it with double sided tape? I can use silicon which is strong and can be easily removed? Or, does this approach negate the dampening of table? I've  gone to great lengths to isolate with a rack, spikes and 3" thick maple slab that the TT rests on. What is the "normal" way when that happens? Thanks in advance. 
Ag insider logo xs@2xmcmanus
Its called putting things in perspective. A long arm is just some guys idea of how to reduce tracking error. Its based on the idea tracking error is important. Which it is. But tracking error, which is the whole reason for the long arm, is but one on a very long list of factors that go into it.  

How anyone goes from a totally unobjectionable straightforward comment to trivializing and whimsical is a question I leave to their psychologist.
Antiscate should have no bearing on your issue.  My arm, and many I've seen tracks well without any antiscate at all
Sorry I didn’t have time to read through some likely very good comments by experienced posters.

Here are my thoughts ...

I was tasked with correcting the mount of a Reed 2P for a customer, and discovered that the arm’s mounting specifications (pivot to spindle distance) did not allow for a Baerwaald adjustment, due to (1) being specified for some alternate alignment, and (2) the headshell slots being very short.

I don’t know if this has changed with the "3" series, but it’s something to research. I wrote this Reed installation up in my blog. If you key " A Creative Demo" into the search box on my website, you’ll find a two part rant about this.

You’ll also note how I worked to get the arm positioned to facilitate a reasonable VTA adjustment range (adding 1/2" of height to the armboard). The arm was "non-standard" in this regard, requiring very little "drop" from the platter to the armboard surface. Again, this may have been revised in the "3" series, but I’d look into this as well.

As far as double sided tape is concerned, DRILL AND SCREW that tonearm in place. Tapped holes are elegant, but thru-holes with capture nuts are fine.

In that blog post, take note of the severe sonic drop-off in dynamics during my prototyping of the revised armboard. The acrylic shims I used utterly destroyed the dynamics, and this is far better coupling than two-sided tape.

Frankly, before drilling, I’d verify your mounting location with a known good tool like the Feickert protractor. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that we sell them. Of course, you can drill twice and measure once, if that’s your preference ;-)

Lastly, is Joe Cohen still importing these turntables? I’d contact the importer for mounting help. It’s the importer and dealer who should be helping you with this and not some folks on an internet forum.

Failing that, if you need some help (or a possible referral to someone near you), feel free to reach out.

Thom @ Galibier Design