Tone arm holes do not line up - best way to attach TT?

Its called putting things in perspective. A long arm is just some guys idea of how to reduce tracking error. Its based on the idea tracking error is important. Which it is. But tracking error, which is the whole reason for the long arm, is but one on a very long list of factors that go into it.  

How anyone goes from a totally unobjectionable straightforward comment to trivializing and whimsical is a question I leave to their psychologist.

You can post all the pics you want. Just have to start a system page. Like this https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367

Oh come on guys, you knew it was only a matter of time ...

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case I'd say more like ten thousand.

What's off is your spindle to pivot distance, which you already know is "a few inches outside spec". 

So here's the deal. All the alignment we're doing is to get the record to drag the stylus across smoothly without too much error. That's why someone came up with the idea of your long arm in the first place. A longer arm means a longer radius means less angle change across the record. This is all based on some guys idea. Its important not to get too caught up in some guys ideas. Except mine. You can do that with mine. 

Okay so you got this very long arm and its mounted too close to the spindle. So what you do, take your arm and swing it out over the platter and look where the stylus falls. Look where it falls relative to the arm pivot point. Look where it falls relative to an imaginary line drawn from the spindle through the stylus. Look how cockeyed that line is with the arm. That's your problem right there. 

Because the minute the record starts spinning its dragging on the stylus, and look at that angle. See? The spinning record is pulling the stylus towards the center. This happens on all spinning records by the way. Its just that normally the angle is almost square because the spindle to pivot distance is correct and so the arm doesn't go skating across the record like yours is doing. 

You're trying to fix this with excess VTF which seems logical but in reality is only making the situation even worse. Because its this skating force that is pulling it in. The greater the VTF the greater the force. Not to mention you're putting excess force on the cantilever, putting it out of alignment, but that's getting a little deep for you for now. 

Get a bigger piece of wood. Move that arm out where it belongs. Do not ever exceed recommended VTF. Skating problems are corrected with anti-skate adjustment, not VTF.

The sound is amazing but the complexities are daunting.

Its not that bad. It only seems like there are a lot of things to learn because right now you haven't learned many of them and so they seem to be coming at you from all sides. Its really not that many though and each one of them is really very simple once you break it down. 

Also while going through the learning curve it will serve you well to keep in mind what you already know: The sound is amazing! 

I have been buying, and playing, and modifying, and even building turntables since 1976. In all that time I have yet to hear the one that didn't sound amazing. There was even one time a gramophone in an antique store we put a 78 on and even that was amazing! 

I bring this up because too many audiophiles obsess so much on doing it perfect they miss out on a lot of opportunities to Just Do It! You could for example cut any old piece of wood up, put some holes in it, screw it to your table, and mount your arm to that. Just to hear how it sounds like that. Won't be much work (he said, having everything just sitting there in his shop all ready to go) and you will gain untold experience just doing it. And hearing it. 

Then send it back. Unless you fall in love. Which you might. In which case you go looking for better wood to make it all pretty and nice. Or send it back anyway figuring the shorter one will be all pretty and nice, and probably sound pretty much the same. Which you will never know- unless you try.

What do you mean? Your arm has VTA on the fly. Are you talking azimuth? Or...? Because if not what else is there?? 
Please note the very first thing I said was to make sure you have correct spindle to arm distance.

That's the stuff. It comes thick and thin. I would get one of each. Because right now it seems insane to pay so much for tape. But then you get it and only wish you'd bought more. And then when you do go to buy more its no longer $57 its $67 or whatever. No idea why but the stuff has been going up in price to where it is double a year ago and triple the year before that. When you can even find it. Tends to be back-ordered a lot.  

Works great on all the obvious places on a turntable, tone arm, motor, etc and also on speaker baskets and caps and circuit boards, insides of component chassis, behind speakers (way better gasket material), etc. It kills vibrations but not in the usual damping way that sounds kind of damped or rolled off, this does it by using the piezo electric effect to convert micro vibrations into heat. The signal remains while a lot of detail smearing grunge disappears and the result is a lot more detail and presence but by noise being subtracted. Remarkable stuff. Only wish it looked better. I try and hide it by putting it on the under side of the tone arm tube, underneath the arm base, basically anywhere it can't be seen. Otherwise I would wrap my whole arm in it!

That was my fear- very small base, combined with a lot of mass off to one side, not good for tape. 

As for the vibration control aspect of it, just get that tape. You can thank me later.

There's multiple solutions which in spite of what others will no doubt tell you the only way to know is to try and listen and hear for yourself.  

First of all let's make sure the problem with the holes isn't that the arm is in the wrong place. Use your preferred template or jig or tape to measure and locate the arm at the correct distance from the spindle. 

Yes your double-sided tape trick will certainly work. Its quick and cheap and simple and the biggest disadvantage is how hard it will be to remove should you ever want to do that. Some arms can simply sit in the mounting hole, their mass and the hole holding them in place. That's the way my Conqueror works. No screws. Lifts right out. Before doing anything else you will want to check this. If the center of mass of your arm is over the mounting base and hole then it will stay put all by itself. The Reed has a lot of the arm off to one side, so it might need to be fastened to stay put. You want to check this because if this is the case then over time your tape will come loose its just a matter of time. The safe sure bet is to use the arm as a template mark with a pencil and drill new holes.  

My preferred solution would be to get some fO.q tape, put that on the under side of the arm base, with another layer of fO.q tape on the table. Then drill your holes and screw the arm down, but only just snug not overly tight, and use a bit of fO.q tape to make some washers so the arm is held to the table in such a way it is practically floating held in place between the fO.q tape.