Tiptoes vs rubber bottle stoppers: When?

I have a Sony SACD777 that was on one side of setup on a very solid cabinet. Then I moved it to a rack, not so solid. The bottom faded after the move... Tried tiptoes, naaah. Then put size 10 rubber bottle stoppers under feet and WHAM, back comes the bottom stability and "solid" musical bottom end. So??? the question is, what general guidelines does one follow? (besides: what sounds best!!!) and does anyone know the correct amount of weight for a #10 stopper to maximize the vibration dampening properties? and how about a #8 stopper? (I got mine at American Science and Surplus 10's for $1.25 each and 8's for .80...) I use some AQ sorbothane pods under my preamp too.
Elizabeth; You're probably gonna' have to experiment with the bottle stoppers to come up with what you like best; maybe try different sizes-- a good idea BTW. I think Redkiwi is probably the best source of info. on resonance control. If your thread doesn't catch his attention, try emailing him. He's a nice guy-- and knowledgeable. Cheers. Craig.
Elizabeth: I'd be curious to know how the sound of the bottle stoppers under the existing feet compares to their sound directly against the chassis. Also, some 'philes have had good results using a partially-inflated 12" bicycle (butyl rubber) inner tube between the chassis and the shelf. Bile tubes filled with oil may sound better and provide more stability than those simply filled with air. Perhaps someone else here can suggest the best type of oil to use.

I've tried Sorbothane pucks in my system and have found that generally make the sound smoother and less harsh, but can also decrease apparent system dynamics (though they can work well in some systems when used in moderation).
Oops! My last sentence in the first paragraph of my preceeding post should start with "Bike tubes," instead of "Bile tubes". My hunch is that "bile" would not work well as a tube material. :)
I only have my opinions Craig and Elizabeth, and what I have to say will probably not go down too well in this instance. I don't doubt what you say you hear, or that you preferred the weightier bass Elizabeth. And if I was there I expect I would agree with that preference.

But (and you knew that was coming), as I have reported elsewhere, I have gotten fooled by this same thing, and eventually saw through it. Using heavy shelfs and certain types of rubber footers will add bass weight, but they do this by moving resonance points into the bass region and lengthening (smearing) bass transients). But if the flipside is using light and rigid supports, and having no bass weight (cause the real thing has bass weight), is it any better? Well there are some solutions that can give you bass speed and bass weight. There may also be iisues with the rack you are using Elizabeth.

I know I am suggesting a u-turn from the path you are on. Do a search on "Shelf" and you will see how much I have been ranting on this topic. But perhaps something you may be happy with is a suggestion you use the E-A-R feet, which give a good bass result while retaining good articulation, and which I reckon are overall way better than any rubber foot - they are a polymer of some sort, look like a rubber footer, are not very big, come in two sizes depending on weight of the component (and you must use the correct size for good results) and are cheap. Found at www.sonicfrontiers.com.
First the use of bottle stoppers might "stop the liquidity of the sound".......
Joking aside be VERY careful with putting oil into inner tubes, oil might degrade the rubber and the potential mess + spill on electronics might be terrible !!!!!!
Liz, do you know if stoppers were molded or extruded and sliced? I have heard it matters in terms of removing unwanted audio resonance. If the pods or stoppers or feet attachments are extruded as one piece then sliced (hence horizontal orientation and strands that when laid flat become perpendicular to shelf and compontent and act as conduit to detrimentally transport resonances vs a random extruded design with an "across the grain" configuration) it does perform as well as molded wherein the strands, actually cells, are random and multidirectional, qualities that ensure soundstage air and depth and directly translate in both bass speed and bass weight while not effecting the mids and often improving the highs. You should see previous discusions of topic on AA. Let me know if you find out from manufacturers about your stoppers orientation. Have you thought about a DBT? Good listening!
Try some Vibrapods; they're quite inexpensive & you might be very pleasantly surprised. They are spec'd according to weight loading (re: your question above). I try to use them at the midrange of their specified weight capacity. Different values of their #1's thru #5's can be combined in various ways too.
The stoppers are clearly seen to be molded and not cut from a larger tube. (i make sure I get new 'soft' ones and not old 'hard' ones too.) On buying some "oficial" footers just because they are 'authorized'???? I HAVE all sorts of footers,pods,wood blocks,tiptoes etc... the bottlestoppers work damn well, and the cabinet IS the problem, but as a solution to the cabinet problem, the bottle stoppers seem to do just the right thing. (the cabinet vibrations before the rubber addition seemed to have cancelled out the players solid lower mid and totally wrecked to bass. WITH the footers the player was BACK to the sound it had on the really solid foundation.
Glad to hear that a cheap fix works for you. Every component does not respond the same. When you have to factor in all the component/shelf/stand/flooring variables you just have to "play it by ear". Love it when 5 dollor stoppers work better than expensive feet. Good job.