The right footing for a turntable

Replaced the brass feet on my 401 plinth. They sat on 3 sample blocks of granite on a heavy oak table. I don't like ro spend if I don't have to. So, I had these stainless steel cone footers lying around and stood them on the granite blocks, points up and sat the 50pound plinth on those. Ridiculous improvement. The soundstage is now locked in an unmoveable focus and the center image has moved up a foot. It is the weirdest thing! A slight light-brown coloration has vanished. Bass is now absurd from the Quad ESL57s. The quality of the source has lifted the performance of all other components.

Just to provoke some thought. You may want to see what results with two points up, one point down, and/or one point up, two points down.
I have included a link for Synergistic Research MIG Footer placement, where they claim the change in orientation of there footers results in a pin point or ambient sound stage. I'm not suggesting that reconfiguring your footers will result in the same effect as SR footers have when there orientation is changed,but instead you may find one of these configurations further improves sonics. Jut a thought.

Also I am curious, do you think the effects / improvements you noticed, are a result of the points on your footers being pointed up or instead the stainless steel material. Did you try position the points of the brass footers up; assuming they have points.

Thanks for the info

I suggest you try removing the granite blocks and compare.
Bradf, I simply have them points up as they are not attached to the plinth. I think it is the points. The material plays a part too, I’m sure. Imagine cork verses titanium! The brass footers were actually plumbing compression rings...they may be copper.

Totem, without the granite blocks the sound is not good - flabby and smeared. It is night and day. In fact, I couldn't believe how bad when I finished building the oak table. The granite changed everything. 

Thanks for the info. I have some Mapleshade footers (brass), That I have been wanting to try under my turn table for some time., hence the question referenced above.

In My experience, granite rings....not good for my system.
Stringreen, hence the three 4x4" blocks laid on the oak tabletop - damped.
Symposium Ultra Stealth edition will give the best sound however most people like the cheap stuff.
ebm, not diggin' the dig. Not all of us want to spend big bucks on tweaks. The point (!) was to show how effective cheap tweaks can be. Nevertheless, thanks for the info.
I totally agree i working my way up over 40 yrs.There are many cheap tweaks that are wonderful I'm using those as well.Many people sell something before they tweak it to the max.Enjoy your system no matter how much you have spend in the end its all about the music.Enjoy!!
Also my first turntable was an AR which i bought back from Nam i thought it sound wonderful at the time never had an automatic turntable.Thanks point well taken.
ebm, thanks for the nice follow-up. All good. 
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My table per the Linn manual (he also wrote "Hamilton") sits on a stable, light, lowish table, and sounds tremendous. Maple schmaple...
Wolf, Linns are different. I hang mine from the ceiling with fishing line. It really swings. 
I placed my original VPI Aries Extended on some old Stillpoints and never looked back.  The table is on top of oak plywood shelves that hold most of my LPs, so it's NOT going anywhere. 

I might have to try a granite surface plate under the Stillpoints.  Not sure the plywood will support a piece of granite that heavy.  Might have to get a surface plate rack to hold it.
Run a pillar of granite up from your home foundation through a hole in your floor to place the turntable on, and make sure the table is located in another room away from any sound source or people (don't want people breathing on the table). Place maple in the top of your Les Paul where it belongs, and learn how to play the damn thing.
wolf - It doesn't have to be granite.  It can be a concrete piling that goes down to bedrock.  That doesn't work very well in the west coast due to noise from seismic activity.  It can introduce very low frequency rumble into the music though it can also be useful for monitoring fault line creep.   
I had a VPI Hw-19 that I modded and tweaked a lot over the years, including the platform and supports. A few years ago I bought a Hanss T-30. I can divide the tweaks I did with the VPI into what still works, and what is no longer needed. What works: a support in the basement, under the player. No more skipping when I jump on the wood floor. A very solid granite rack. What is no longer needed: a sand box plus some air damping under the player.
Yes. Basement for me too. It sounds so much better than upstairs. 
Setting aside the suggestions to anchor the table to bedrock, as a newb, I would appreciate some commentary on my current setup and whether I should employ some tweaks to optimize it. 

My system is in the basement  - wall to wall carpet over concrete slab floor.  All of my system components are housed in a Salamander Synergy 303 cabinet - the combined weight of the cabinet and equipment (including TT) is about 200lbs.

The TT is a Music Hall MMF 9.1, which has a freestanding motor and sits on three conical, adjustable feet that come to a very sharp point.  The TT feet sit directly on the top of the Salamander Cabinet.

I cannot discern any obvious issues due to vibration transmission, but that does not mean there is no impact on TT performance / SQ.  Any recommendations on inexpensive tweaks to (hopefully) improve isolation / SQ enhancement.  Drilling to the center of the earth is out of the question (for now).

I'd be tempted to sit the TT on a stack of blocks with a paving slab on top. Those audio cabinets are full of hinges and chipboard!