you can get a rewire kit pretty cheap and usually it will improve the sound over stock wire. I used the incognito kit to rewire a rb300 arm. The difficult part is soldering the clips.
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If you're lucky you can reuse the heat shrink, otherwise get a new piece and slide it up the wire out of the way until you've got things re-soldered.
Try to heat up the clip first since it has more mass than the wire.
You'll probably want to clip an alligator clip to the wire just below where you'll be applying the soldering tool. It will act as a heat source to keep the heat from traveling up the wire and melting more of the insulation.
Then slide the heat shrink over the joint. I've found a hair drier works pretty good with this small of heat shrink.
Had this happen to me several years ago with a MMF-7. I used the opportunity to re-wire the whole arm with better clips and wire. I think I spent about $40 and a couple of hours on a Saturday.
Audphile....It really wasn't too bad. The clip on the white wire was stuck just a bit, and when it finally freed loose, it just shot off and snapped the cable in two. I've heard of people using toothpicks to help loosen them before pulling with the needlenose pliars (make sure it's a fine pair of needle nose). I've heard of others putting some substance on the clip to help loosen it up as well. Just be careful, steady, and just pry the clips off slowly, don't pull. I learned my lesson with the other 3
I am loving the Benz...It's smooth, silky, quiet. It's high's and lows reach much higher than the Goldring. The whole entire sound spectrum is a new beast now. It's incredible what a difference it made. I know it's not the best table and arm, but the cart has made me very happy with my setup now. Still need to tweak a bit, but overall, it's magical.
Buy one of those cheap third hand gadgets with the two alligator clips and integral magnifier from harbor freight tools. Also get a bright led light on it’s own stand and position where needed. Then get yourself some cardas silver solder. Here comes the most important parts....you must use the correct solder iron tip on low power. Use a pointed tip rather than the larger tips shaped like a regular head screwdriver. You want to be able to control the heat, so as not to over heat the tiny wire.
Lastly, place the cartridge connector in the jaws of one of the alligator clips on the third hand gadget and position under magnifier, and direct your light source accordingly. Then place the tiny wire, that has been pre tinned with solder, to the the second alligator clip of third hand gadget. It will take some time to get it all positioned correctly. You then have your 2 free hands to hold the soldering iron and solder. Another tip is to not try and strip wire with a tool. Use your finger nails to pinch wire and gently remove some insulation. A second tip would be to pre solder the connector, whereas you apply a small amount of solder to the entrance of the connector and then just reheat it as you insert the wire..In fact, when soldering it is best to tin both pieces of whatever you are soldering as it promotes an easier and quicker process.
Here’s a link to that gadget...
To prevent doing this again, do not just pull the clip off. The mass of your hand and the tool will keep going with obvious results. If you are right handed you grasp the cartridge with you left thumb and index finger. The thumb should be just proud of the cartridge. Then you grasp the clip with your needle nose and lean the side of the tool against your thumb tip using the thumb as a fulcrum. You have just created a force multiplier. Now you can smoothly pry the clip off.
The better arms have teflon insulation on their wires which you can not burn. Tin both the wire and the clip with solder. Leave a good sized blob on the clip. Arrange the wire so you can orient the clip straight away from the wire. Heat up the clip and while holding the iron against the clip press it into the wire and remove the iron. The wire will melt in instantaneously.
Even if you have teflon wire if you overheat the wire you will shrink your heat shrink tubing so you have to be fast. Never use an iron less than 25 watts. With smaller irons it take longer to melt the solder and you wind up over heating things. The pros use a weighted stand with alligator clips which holds wires in place.
pablo, it has happened to most of us who have been at this for a long time:)
Many times I comment on how maybe the problem isn't what anyone said, maybe its a total lack of reading comprehension. Either not comprehending, or maybe not even bothering to read. Case in point. People giving advice to a guy who solved his problem 13 years ago. Thanks you two for confirming what I've always known.
The puzzling thing is why would Rega, who make such a song and dance about their one piece (structurally superior?!) arms deliberately use inferior wiring?
I remember having a few mishaps with the cartridge wiring on my Linn Ittok. It is indeed a tricky business, so any experienced advice is always welcome.
Personally, although I know some might disapprove, I would rather take my chances with an arm that features a removable headshell anytime (Technics 1200G/GR etc).
Otherwise it will be a safer tightrope walk to remove the arm first. Changing the cartridge with the arm in situ is simply a non starter with a deck like the LP12.
That’s a tightrope walk without a net.
A mere 13 years?
It takes a lifetime’s worth of experience.
Hopefully some newcomers can at least avoid some of the many pitfalls that await any foray into serious vinyl.
An £8000 cartridge?
Can you imagine the installation pressure involved?
Or explaining things to your insurance afterwards...
"Well sir, can you just explain why you think your printer is valued so highly. By the way, our loss adjustor informs us that they have never heard of any Dynavector printer."