The Absolute Sound as compared to just sound? re: Headphones.

In being in the market for a bedroom set of headphones, I have been looking at reviews.  To my dismay some of the "professional" reviews are using their phone or some low-fi device to evaluate a set of headphone's performance.   In it's heyday, Road & Track was trustworthy on car reviews as handling, braking and performance were how they judged cars....as compared to some magazines where everything was just great (kind of Julian Hirsch)   What/who do you feel is a realistic source for audio reviews based on accurate sonic merit?   I called Angelina, but Brad would not let her make any recommendations.