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Tekton Double Impacts

Anybody out there heard these??

I have dedicated audio room 14.5x20.5x9 ft.  Currently have Marantz Reference CD/Intergrated paired to Magnepan 1.7's with REL T-7 subs.  For the vast majority of music I love this system.  The only nit pick is that it is lacking/limited in covering say below 35 hz or so.  For the first time actually buzzed the panel with an organ sacd. Bummer.  Thought of upgrading subs to rythmicks but then I will need to high pass the 1.7's.  Really don't want to deal with that approach.

Enter the Double Impacts.  Many interesting things here.  Would certainly have a different set of strengths here.  Dynamics, claimed bottom octave coverage in one package, suspect a good match to current electronics.

I've read all the threads here so we do not need to rehash that.  Just wondering if others out there have FIRST HAND experience with these or other Tekton speakers

Thanks.
corelli
mac48025's avatar
mac48025
672 posts
 
Hey Bill,

at www.westernelectric.com they have the WE KS-13385 wire from 2-28 gauge. 
If you go to PRODUCTS then COMPONENTS you'll find it.

While at the site check out their WE 300B Monoblocks with eight 300B's per channel. I like their vintage looks with huge meters on the faceplate. Too bad that at $50k/pair they are way out of my range!
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
I forget which end of the crossover board you need to access. Was it towards the top or bottom of the array? I forget. Sorry. Remove the top or bottom midrange driver and take a quick look. Can you access the solder points without removing the board? Possibly if partially behind one of the midrange drivers.  I think it is possible, but you will need surgeon like skills 😊

The board is hot glued and can be pried lose by using a stiff paint scraper etc...between the board and cabinet and slowly and carefully separating it from the cab from the lower midrange driver opening. The driver wires have some slack and you can now carefully move the board within the speaker and position it so you can access the resistor solder points through a mid driver cutout. Solder in the resistor and reapply some glue, liquid nails etc.  behind the board and press back into position. Not easy, but it can be done carefully.  

 


mofojo
2,170 posts
 
Thanks Granny. Will definitely be looking into doing this. Could a guy just use alligator clips to attach it at first to try it out? 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
@mac48025.    Seems like you have to order at least 100 feet.  Wonder if this stuff is exactly the same as the NOS stuff? Interesting. I prefer the Duelund version of this wire as they do not use pvc. They only use natural fibers and oil.  I think that makes a difference. In addition,  the Duelund wire is Cryo treated.  I use the NOS WE 10 gauge as Duelund does not make this thick gauge just yet. I have long speaker wire runs and want a heavy gauge. 






grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
@mofojo

Yes you can but a couple of things to consider.

- once you attach the clips you will have to put the driver back in place and be very sure that part and the clip does not come loose and short out! Oh my!
- the clip will impart a sound and not for the positive. Just realize this. Not a big deal unless your me and have audio issues 😉

But seriously, the danger of a Short is a real concern and approach this carefully. Perhaps Blue Tac and zip tie or something to keep the part in place. Be sure the clips are not going to move or fall off.

Can you run a thin set of wire leads out the cabinet with the mid driver in place ( not 100% tightened) and the resistor hanging outside the cab for quick removal and insertion into the circuit? Sure.

Remember, the drivers have simple wood screws holding them in and the more you remove and tighten them to more you weaken the hold. All that a/b (ing) will take a toll.
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