Tekton Design Moab


Ordered a pair just now. In Dark Gray, to which Tammy immediately said, "Oh the Charcoal is beautiful!" Charcoal sounds better than Dark Gray (even though we are talking about the same color!) so Charcoal it is!  

My beloved Talon Khorus do still sound awfully good. It will be interesting to see how the Moabs stock out of the box compare with these tweaked and modded warhorses. Both the strength, and the weakness, of the Khorus is using the 10" woofer to cover so much midrange. Its a strength because it makes for a very smooth and cohesive sound. But its a weakness because its asking a lot of such a large driver to go so high. Talon makes up for it with their isobaric design. Mounted inside and directly behind the woofer is another identical driver facing the opposite direction. The idea is this relieves the front facing driver of having to compress the air inside the cabinet. This does allow for a much faster response, and is a big reason for the wonderful music the Khorus produces. 

I have a feeling however it is no match for Eric Alexander's ultra-low mass driver array solution. Only one way to know for sure. So we will just have to see!  

 https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 
millercarbon
randym860-
I own a pair of moab’s. They are incredible speakers they have very good dynamics even at any volume.

Congratulations! You must be very happy. Your comment mirrors others who have said they don’t need to be turned up loud to sound good. I have a hunch this has something to do with their incredibly fast and detailed dynamics. But whatever the reason the fact remains a lot are hearing it, and that’s what counts.

I also have an svs sb16 ultra that does help a little at very low volume but once you start turning it up the moab’s have plenty of low end and the sub is too much.

Very common. There’s even a technical explanation for it- equal loudness contours. Do a search, study the graphs. What they are saying, we do not hear frequencies equally across the range. Especially at the lowest frequencies, they have to be quite loud to even register at all. But then once they do cross that threshold then even a little bit louder sounds a lot louder. That is what the contour lines bunching together is telling us.

What this means in practical terms is if you set your subs to sound perfect at one volume level, then when you turn the volume down they will not be loud enough- but when you turn the volume up they will be too loud. This is why the loudness control used to be so common, and its also why its such a challenge to get the bass dialed in.

The only real solution would be a variable level that adjusts automatically to your custom spec. Okay, I know, dream on. The compromise I went for is to take my time, make very small (tiny, near inaudible) adjustments very gradually. We’re talking over a period of weeks here. Because it takes time to relax and listen to different recordings and at usual listening volume levels.

This last is crucial because what you think is the perfect level changes with volume. The result I came up with, its perfect at my usual critical listening level. There’s a bit more at high rock out levels, which is fine. You kind of want more then anyway. Not a lot more, just enough. There’s a bit less at lower levels, but then it doesn’t matter as much anyway.

You can see how pointless it would be to try and accomplish this with meters. The meters register the same dB change regardless of volume. Meters will get you flat but cannot make the judgment call you can of balancing for overall satisfaction.

Thanks for bringing this up. It will add to the usefulness of this thread when my Moabs come and we go about the process of getting them dialed in.

speedbump6,

"I have a hunch this has something to do with their incredibly fast and detailed dynamics."

This is a kind of thought that those mocking millercarbon are talking about. It is written in the way that projects knowledge, experience, value of opinion, while it is just an empty marketing slogan lifted straight from the youtube influencers' textbook. Some people have very low tolerance for such an enthusiasm. No fault on anyone's part, but annoying to many for sure.

Mapman, the amps I’m using won’t having any problems at all, rated at 900 watts and 4 ohms and 1200 at 2. The Tektons are rated at 4 but do dip below that level. Won’t be any clipping here, and if there is, I’ll upgrade to the 28b3s. Lol. Glupson, again, I don’t see the problem when no one else in all the other threads that have done exactly the same thing, get no grief for it. So it does make it look personal based on that. If that were being applied to everyone that did it, I’d say it was not personal, but then it would be more like the neighborhood compliance police who have to have a say in everything they see you do to your home. I think it snubs free and open conversation. Everyone here knows Miller is speaking without having heard them in person, so nothing is being hidden, and they can take it for what they feel it is worth. I for one prefer to hear people thoughts, even if it means those thoughts come from reviews they’ve read, friends they’ve talked to etc, to bounce ideas off of. I’m pretty good at giving the proper weight to what I’m hearing, and we all have to realize that no matter what, there’s a chance when we get it home, it won’t meet expectations. There’s a chance it might exceed them. The reality is there’s no great way to hear everything we’d like to, and with every combination of equipment we have, or may consider having, much less in our own listening environment. I’ve found that I can tell a lot from what I read, when there’s been enough data posted, and get a pretty darn good idea of what to expect. At times I’ve been suprised, disappointed, or enthralled. As audiophiles, a lot of us move on from equipment we throughly enjoy, because we are in search of the next fix, the next “ upgrade”, for many of us nothing is forever anyways, so if it dosnt work out, we move on. 
Glupson, the problem with car audio systems, it the idea that they’re end. I know Mercedes charges an extra 6-7k for their high end burmeister system over what the standard system is. So let’s say total value is 9k. But not really.  Mercedes is getting a big chuck of that, bu resister isn’t known for speakers? So those are made by someone else, plus add their markup plus what caddy gets. You get 20 or so speakers, so in our world let’s call it three ways. That’s 3.5 pairs of speakers, a head unit (preamp and amp usually built together but sometimes are separates), built in dac, CD player, so at best you’ve got several hundred dollars to allocate to each item. Not exactly high end. I’m currently replacing the audio system in my Mercedes with focal utopia speakers and tru technology class AB amps. I did a system with focall’s many years ago and it was fantastic. I expect much more from this new system, as Those wernt even utopias. Now if a car would come with true high end audio can you imagine the cost? Entry level 20k, mid level 40k, high end 60k and ultra high end 150k, lol. Check your box please.
Bump yup sounds like you are in good shape amp wise.

However many run Tektons off modest power tube amps. That is a different story if the lowest octave without clipping is of interest. Most likely soft clipping with a tube amp so dynamics would be impacted but more palatable distortion there than with a hard clipping SS amp.


Note many Class D amps soft clip as well. I use 500 w/ch to 8 ohm, 1000 to 4 ohm soft clipping Class D amps in my setup. I use a powered sub with smaller monitors but not with larger more full range speakers. YMMV.