I have the 100's and no brightness. It could still be that they need more break in despite being demo units. The sound of the speakers responded well to aftermarket power cords on the electronics. My PW-2200 is in the corner behind the left speaker which helped with some boominess I was getting. I think that the sub was taking pressure waves from the left speaker and acting as a passive radiator and causing some boominess. I am running Virtual Dynamics Audition series cables through my system from CDP to amp with a biwire run of speaker cable which I know has somewhat filtered the highs. I have my speakers 5 to 5 feet out from the rear wall and about 3 feet from the side walls which also may help the brightness as you will change the reflection angles. Try sitting closer to the speaker too. I find that with the width you have that 8 to 10 feet is best. Keep trying and once you find the workaround I think you'll be very happy with these speakers. I've also tried Harmonic Technology Pro 11 speaker cables which worked well with these speakers though if I was going that route I think I'd go with the AZ Satori's in shotgun. Your CDP might also be influencing the brightness too. Good luck.
I would suggest slightly wider spacing and some absorbtion/diffusion treatment at the first reflection point on the side walls.
Oddyssey are neutral, can be lean,sometimes,AQ Type 6
is not bright,maybe you need the midnight AQ, or
MIT,or cardas cross sp cable.What ic do you use?
I agree with the other posts - extend the distance between the speakers or sit a couple feet closer. Toe them in 10 deg. or so. If possible, damp the wall behind and to the sides of the speakers with a wall hanging or something similar. Try to do the same for the wall behind the listening position.
As for the subwoof, experiment with the crossover freq., the 100s can go pretty low all by themselves, I'd probably set the crossover at around 35 Hz and give it a good listen. Then, experiment with it set at 30 Hz and see how it sounds...
Modify the crossovers. This will make the most substantial improvement, greater than cable tweaks. There is much room for improvement on your crossover boards.
I have my sub set somewhere between 50 and 60Hz. The level is actually quite low as I don't care to be evicted at this time. I wouldn't set the sub any higher.
Have you tried this with the 100's? I'd be interested to hear more about modding the crossovers.
Thanks for the posts.
I am currently using AQ Copperhead for amp to preamp. Using Phoenix Gold IC's to a Sony 555es SACD Player. Forgot to mention that I have big picture windows stretching all across the rear of the speakers that start after about 3ft of wall height. Medium curtains behind each speaker and sheer panels in the middle. Speakers are now about 30 inches out from rear windows and about a foot and a half from one sidewall. Other speaker does not have sidewall as it is open-dining room alcove. Speakers are now 8feet apart and the listening distance is now 13ft away.
It is beginning to sound better but still needs some tweaking.
Talked to Klaus from Odyssey. He thinks AQ' are a tad bright too.Thinking about Groneberg cables(odyssey) for this setup as Klaus from odyssey says they are very neutral-even a tad dark. should match well. I do get excellent prices for AQ stuff though.
Last thing, Subwoofer crossover starts at 50hz to 150hz so I have it set at about 75hz.
I modded a pair for a friend 2 years ago. Upgraded caps, inductors and resistors. Two weeks later, after burn-in, he was one happy camper. Cheap crossover parts can hold back an otherwise excellent design.
Thanks again for all the responses. Turns out that my dealer gave me the wrong bi-wire speaker cable. It was a high crossover for a two-way speaker. That is why I had very shrill treble and no bass. They sound really good right now and am finally happy with my purchase!
You realize of course my friend that this is only the beginning of the obsession. Glad to hear it worked out for you.
yeah cosmicvoid-am already eyeing some jmlabs electra 926's or some odyssey lorelei's. The only thing that brings me back to sanity is looking at my savings account hehe.
Coonsider yourself lucky with little in your saving account as a lot of money can drive audiophools nuts and bananas. Enjoy the music now, when you have loads of cash to spare you can start to enjoy the equipment.
Good insight. I am right at the proverbial edge-you know, the point where I do not now if I am enjoying the music or listening to the system way too critically.
By the way, how do you like the REL sub? That is my next choice for a sub. I currently have the paradigm pw-2200. Damn ugrade-itis.
I am not sure I can give you an idea of how the two subs would compare as I have not heard the pw-2200. However, many swear by REL saying it is one of the best for music. Some who did compare and whose ears I trust did say REL is superior to Paradigm Servo 15 (which is a better sub than pw-2200)
OTOH if you ask me about the REL itself, its fantastic. Its been a while now and I don't think I will ever be able to listen to music without a sub.
I too have heard many praises for the rel saying that it is one of the better subs for music. I also agree that I could not listen to 2-channel music without a sub.
I am now waiting to get my tempest preamp by early feb. See if it smoothes out my system as it is sounding a bit cold and digital on classic rock and 80's music.If that does not work, I will try upgrading to a tube player like a used cary for a warmer presentation.
I would be interested in above post suggesting mods for studio 100s,has anyone done this?If so what were the results,,
has anyone tryed sandbags,leadshot,in botton of studio 100 cabs?
I have found that audioquest doesnt mate well with my Studio 100s. Very harsh and grainy highs. I would suggest demoing a pair of Kimber Bifocals.
I've modded crossovers in 2 pairs of Studio 100s, and a pair of Studio 40v2s. I've done this with about 50 pairs of speakers, so I don't remember the actual component values. But it's not too tough if you're comfortable with soldering.
I have studio 100 V.3's with the Rel Storm 3 sub bass unit and Odyssey Stratos Extreme Monoblocks. At the risk of initiating controversy, I will meekly recommend that you consider trying Dakiom Feedback stabilizers. The crossover in my system was always "correct", but the stabilizers really did tame the high end, without sacrificing detail, in my opinion. At FIRST, when i added the newer 2nd generation 203's to each block, there did seem to be a slight drop in detail on the high end but with greater smoothness. Overall I prefered the stabilizers--way more bass slam. After playing the unit with stabilizers on for several weeks, did another A/B and found no appreciable loss in detail, just overall improvement in the sound.
The odyssey mono's don't use much negative feedback according to Klaus (who i call and pester periodically with questions--a very patient man he is), but the stabilizers still seem to help. The Dakiom people claim that break in doesn't really occur, and they seem to think it's really just a psychoacoustic phenomenon, but I'm not so sure.
This is far an away the best system I've ever owned, but I still feel that the high end could be smoother, and may upgrade the system with DAC, Tempest extreme preamp, and different speakers eventually.
Note that I am the author of the original (bombastic ?) Dakiom review, where a B&K ST140 was the amplifier. Very nice, but huge improvement with the Odyssey Extremes.