Sumiko Headshell on SL1210

Hello folks, i have this on my deck and it does make a big difference, but here in the uk for some reason we don't get the extra counterweight it's an extra. i use an audio technica 110e with this deck and very nice it is too so i am waiting for my friendly local dealer to source me a weight, hopefully for free so by reading some of the posts here do you use blutak as i do to balance the arm or is there another method i could use. great site by the way. all the best, engine
Use a lighter cartridge while waiting? Did you try sliding the cartridge back all the way? It won't be in alignment but will work? Metal, Copper or lead washers may work?
If you're referring to the accessory SL12xx tonearm counterweight, I believe it can be purchased through KAB.
thanks for the tips guys, i used a grado black which is 1.2 gms lighter than the at110e and kept off the cuing arm to lessen the weight and i was able to get the overhang right and alignment so all in all so far so good. i will let you know how it sounds at a later date. all the best, engine.
With the Sumiko headshell, whether you need the extra counterweight depends on the cartridge weight (duh!). I use it with a Denon DL-160, which is a fairly light cartridge at 4.8g, and I can *just* get by without the extra counterweight. Anything above 5g and you'll probably need it.

Even so, I generally use the extra weight anyway, which puts the larger calibrated counterweight closer to the pivot point. I like the sound slightly better that way.

Needle Doctor now offers a the Ortofon SH-4 Headshell, which looks like it would weigh less than the Sumiko but be more rigid than the stock Technics shell. But I haven't been able to get any info on its actual weight. It even costs less than the Technics.
Be sure to avoid the finger lift that comes with the Sumiko headshell, it causes unstableness in the headshell due to off balance weight in relationship to the needle and the headshell itself if mounted.
For the azimuth hex screw, I've found that it can be quite sticky when trying to tighten it down, which becomes more problematic because the when you loosen the hex screw to make an adjustment, and then tighten it down. When you go to tighten the hex screw, this will put pressure on the headshell itself causing your 'fine adjustment' to go out of adjustment.

So I had some silicone spray on hand and took out the hex screw and gave it a small dose of silicone, now the hex screw is nice and smooth for tightening/loosening and does not stick.