subwoofer for music?


Hi all

My Speakers are the neat ultimatum mf5 which claims to have specs of

MF5 response @ +/-3dB is 28Hz - 40kHz. The typical - 6dB point in the bass is 22Hz. (from BOB of neat)

Can a 6.5" driver get that low?? Proacs and PMC also have specs that go that low! While speakers with drivers of 12" only gets to 30+hz usually...not sure why

I dont feel a lack of bass from the speakers, but having a sub that can fulfil both role of music/movies and help my system to get down to 20hz will be awesome! (will set the crossover at 35hz or less)

However i will have a subwoofer regardless because i will use it for theater, and the pv1d just does not cut it for movies. So therefore im looking for a sub to be used for music and movies with budget as low as possible.

Will 2 subs help stereo imaging? I would much prefer a single sub for convenience .
Room is 8m(6m usable) x4m. So after reading some info, here are some choices that is within my budget (but i would prefer to spend as little as possible)

-jl audio f113

-twin velodyne spl 1000 ultra

-jl audio f112

-bower wilkin db1

-velodyne dd15 (not plus version)

-twin jl audio f110

-mk 350 mk2

-rel r528

I heard about SVS and KK and paradigm subs, but they are a pain to get in my country

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks all :)
nieveulv

Showing 3 responses by kr4

The reason for your confusion about the low end extension of small-woofer systems is that the frequency response specs rarely indicate how much acoustic output they can support at those lower frequencies. For example, a 6.5" driver and a 10-12" driver may each play a 30Hz tone but the latter can play it much louder. Note that the drivers in the subs you list are larger than 6.5".

Also, you should consider using a much higher crossover than 35Hz for several reasons.
1. Crossover roll-offs are gradual. A 35Hz crossover will have minimal attenuation one octave down and, with your speakers, have little effect.
2. Raising the crossover will transfer more of the LF power demands to the more able sub, reducing stress and IMD in your main speakers.
3. Raising the crossover and getting a sub with decent EQ will make placement easier and integration smoother.

However, how do you intend to connect and crossover the subs?
"You can't make a categorical statement based on driver diameter. Stiffness and weight of the cone plus driver excursion (how much air does it displace?), and cabinet volume are all part of the equation. Fed enough power, my Mirages can make deep, loud bass."

Here's a categorical statement: If all of those other parameters are equally optimized, the larger driver is capable of producing lower, louder bass. The dual 7" drivers in my Paradigms come no where close to matching what I get from the dual 10" drivers in my B&Ws, with or without adding subs.
Johnnyb53, you are talking about specific examples, as I did, and not about the general statement. All those variables do apply but each one can be discussed in terms of its contribution.

Designers choose different drivers based on excursion, stiffness, magnets, mass, etc. and depending on the application. When it comes to woofers, larger is not always better but, unless the implementation is incompetent, larger will be capable of louder, deeper and/or more efficient output.