Speakers do not have to be monitors to add a sub. You can use any brand of sub. Most subs come with amplification and x overs built in. There are many nice subs besides the Totem that will work fine!
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You will be fine adding a sub. It will be helpful to read up on how to integrate the sub, as there are differing wiring and calibrating methods depending on the sub and your preferences. There also are sealed and vented sub endclosures, which are explained in the better articles. In my bedroom system, I use my sub's crossover and it does not call attention to itself at all. The sub just extends the speaker's bottom end. My music sub is a sealed design vs bass reflex. I would be fine (and was for some time) without a sub, but once I got it set up, I enjoy and prefer it. If you knew all this, please disregard. My intention was to help, not be a know-it-all. I'm a neophyte compared to most on here. Best, gary |
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BTW, Since you have a separate amp and preamp you should get a sub that has a low line level output option. Here is a manual for the hookup options on many subs! Have fun! http://www.psbspeakers.com/content/160419102939-PSB_SubSeries_English_Owners_Guide.pdf |
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I’ve used the skinny Silverline Preludes (even smaller woofers than your Totems) as main speakers for years with REL subs and no room correction other than occasionally having to adjust the output of the RELs a little when a recording is bass heavy (or bass shy). My listening room has a very high sloped ceiling with lots of room for the system to breathe (so to speak), and although my tube main amp is only 65 or so watts per channel, combined with the RELs it has more than enough horsepower (or is it torque?). The RELs (Q150e & Q108e mk II) were purchased used at different times and one is an 8" floor firing and the other is a 10" front…both cost about 200 bucks each (!). Highly recommended, and the REL philosophy of letting the main speakers run full range as designed works for my tastes. |