stripped allen wrench screws

My allen wrench screws the hold the cover of my Doge 6 CDP are stripped ( from two previous owners that were compulsive tube rollers)....any ideas on how to remove them without damaging the unit or should I send it to Pacific Valve and Electric?
Take a philips screwdriver and gently tap the end with a hammer, drive the tip into the allen opening and try to create new grooves or a cross pattern that will grip the tip of the screwdriver enough to unscew it.
The screws on the D6 are supposed to be star, not allen. But when I had mine, a star wouldn't work and I had to use an allen. Pacific Valve was very suprised. Anyway, try a star before trying anything else. Oh - also, allens come in metric and US sizes, so you may have the wrong allen. Good luck and don't worry - stripped screws can be removed. Electronic repair places deal with that all the time if worse comes to worse.
Any reasonably well-stocked hardware or auto supply store will have what is called an 'easy-out' or screw extractor. It's a tapered bit with sharp fluted reverse threads. Buy one that is the right size for the allen screw recesses, along with a T-handle chuck to hold the easy-out, and the screws should come out 'easily.'

A 2nd for Sfar's recommendation. Lowes or Home Depot will have it. You can by a set to fit various size "stripped head" screws. Useful tool for other than audio as well.
Thank you all for your suggestions!

BTW - screws aside, that is one great player. Best I've heard for the money. It's also cool in that it allows you to leave the digital section powered up and turn the tubes off. The Lector lets you do that too, but IMO, the D6 sounds better. (I've owned both) Enjoy some good music!
I do not recommend tapping a philips screwdriver or easy out into the head of those screws. In order for either method to be successful you will have to hit it hard enough that you will most likely damage the laser or something else. You will be money ahead by sending your player in for repair.
I agree that I wouldn't tap anything into the screw head but using an easy-out should not involve having to tap it in if the right size easy-out is used.

The taper of the tip of the easy-out is likely extreme enough that the flutes will bite into the sides of the recess when the handle is turned counter-clockwise. I'm not guaranteeing it will work but it's an inexpensive experiment and won't make the situation worse if it doesn't.
If the screws are not recessed, and you have replacement screws available, I recommend you buy a Dremel, and with the cut-off wheel attached, carefully cut a flat slice into the top of the screw so you can remove it with a flat-blade screwdriver.

Just hold onto the Dremel for dear life so it doesn't walk off the screw and cut your unit top.

I've normally have found success without having to go as far some of the above suggestions, even if they are salient.

What I recommend you try first is to switch from metric to SAE or vice versa. More often than not, you can go up a tad in size for the wrench, and get enough of a grip on the bolt to remove it.
I'd NEVER want to use a Dremel around my fine electronics. All it'd take was a single metal flake / chip / particle to short between a couple board traces and you'd be .......well, really mad at yourself.

chayro: do you mean 'Torx'?