STAX input voltage question

Thanks so much Spritzer for the info and advice. You are my VERY FIRST thread/blog/forum (whatever you call this thing) contact/friend/advisor! I just signed up with head-fi. Yes, I will likely have more questions, as I seem to have been re-bitten by the STAX bug, after it lie dormant for over two decades.

Thanks much Spritzer. I hope I figured a way to better articulate my question.
I have two STAX SRM-1 Mk2 units. One is 100V for Japan and the other 117V for USA. The serial numbers are surprisingly close and the voltage selectors themselves look identical (but are wired slightly differently). The 100V unit has no jack in the voltage selector on the back. The 117V unit has the voltage selector jack in place and pointing to 117V. The 117V unit will not power up without the jack in place. I don't like the idea of trying to power up the 110V unit with the other jack inserted in it pointing to 117V. When I look inside, I see that there is a slight difference in the color coded wiring schemes (btw: these 2 units are amazingly close in serial number). Can the 110V unit be wired to the same color coding scheme as the 117V unit with expectations of it working (at 117V assuming that I find and insert another jack)? Or, are their other internal differences?
Another idea would be to permanently wire it for 117V without having to find another jack (IF there are no other internal differences)?
Can you tell that I am not a 'techi'?
My wife has a technical question for you also: "Will I get SHOCKED?" lol
Thanks much!

Spritzer, Both transormers and wires look identical. But the wires leading to the back of the selector switch sockets are wired differently (2 wires go to different pins, as I recall). This is where I was asking if wiring the 110V unit the same as the 117V unit would convert it to 117V.
I can take some photos but will have to borrow the right camera to do it.
btw: My ultimate goal is to find as perfect a tube STAX as I can afford. If you have anything in your arsenal that you might like to sell, let me know thru email. Thanks much again.

Spritzer,

It is the 100V unit that has the voltage selector plug missing and it WILL operate. I bought that unit brand new, from a reputable dealer circa 1986. The packaging seemed factory fresh but I guess someone MIGHT have removed the plug before selling it. I can't imagine that they would have modified any internal wiring though. Also there is a very 'original' looking plate screwed over the voltage selector switch.
It is the 117V unit that will not operate with the voltage selector plug removed. Does that info change what you said before?

On the subject of a tube amp: I am considering an SRM-T1 for either my Lambda Pros or for Lambda Signature Pros that I have access to. What do you think of that combo and do you think that my 61 year old ears could hear the difference compared to what I have? I do love the detail of STAX and the sweet sound of tubes (at least when listening to McIntosh tube amps through speakers).

Thank you again so very much for all of your advice.

Spritzer.....
YOU da MAN!!! Thanks again for the valuable info. All pretty good news too, if I understood correctly. I can make a lot of progress just on what you have taught me here. Would you please email me at [email protected] so that I might ask a quick question about price of a couple of items that I am looking at? I have more STAX questions but will let you rest a while after having put you to so much explanatory effort. lol
Thanks again....!!!