Dismiss the doubts, they are awesome speakers. Sit back and enjoy!
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NEver heard those Tannoys but they look very nice!
Are you sure you have the right amp to max out the performance with those speakers? I am not familair with your amp so cannot say, but I would confirm that first before changing speakers if you like the sound but just want to make it better. IS you amp a tube or SS amp? 240w/ch to 8 ohm may be overkill for efficient speakers. Maybe there is a better match with lower power output? Speakers like those that use large drivers often do best with an amp with higher damping and current delivery as opposed to just pure watts. These are some things I would be sure of first before changing nice speakers like those that you already like.
I know tube amps are popular with high sensitivity designs like those, but I wonder if insufficient damping could be the culprit? Tube amps have higher output impedance which results in lower damping. Have you ever tried a SS amp with very high damping factor for comparison? I would expect much different sound in that larger drivers often benefit from higher damping resulting in cleaner and more articulate bass. Maybe better overall, maybe not.
A good Icepower Class D amp might be interesting to try with those Tannoys for that. Since they are high efficiency, you may not need many watts, just current, damping factor, and higher input impedance also if you are also using a tube pre-amp. BEl Canto ref500m monoblocks come to mind. These have a good rep and make improvements on stock Icepower power supplies and input impedance for use with tube pre-amps. I use larger BC ref1000m monoblocs with my lower efficiency OHM Walsh 5s, which also use a larger driver tha benefits from higher current and damping.
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Output power 2x530W / 2Ohm
2x350W / 4Ohm
2x225W / 8Ohm
Frequency range 2 Hz - 200 kHz
Dumping factor on output terminal 3500 / 8Ohm / 1 kHz
Distortion no hearable distortion
Power amplifier class AB
four-layered gilded printed circuit board casts in aluminium monolith
Loudness control precise resistors, switched by relays
Input circuits balanced input, discrete circuits without total feedbacks
and without opamps
D/A converter 16 - 24 bit / 32 - 192 kHz, cast in aluminium monolith
Chasis milled massive aluminium case
Cooling by the whole case, upper desk thickness 40 mm, 620 pcs.
vent, heat distribution by gas without Freon´s
Inner cables halogen free, high quality
Output terminals WBT
- analog 1x XLR
- digital 4x cinch 75Ohm
Measures 440 x 185 x 440 mm
Weight 38 kg
Warranty 5 let
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Hmm, well, nothing in the specs jumps out as a problem.
I wonder how much current teh amp is capable of delivering? That might be a factor with teh larger drivers. Often, integrated amps involve compromises in design and current delivery of integrated amps is not typically in the same league as that from the better standalone amplifiers. Can't say for sure in this case.
If you like the sound but it just needs to be tighter and faster, if you can maybe try the Class D Icepower amps. The Bel Cantos I use fit that bill perfectly. Other Class Ds like Rowland or Spectral might as well, but I cannot speak for those.
If it turns out that these do not deliver what you are looking for, then maybe a speaker swap is in order, but I think that would be a much more radical change in sound overall. Depends on your goals really....
BTW, I notice Tannoy employs Class D amps in some of their commercial monitor products, so I'm really thinking tannoy + Class D could be a very effective combo.
If you are not so attached to the Tannoys and the amp is really what you want/need to build around, I have heard some good things regarding Classic Audio Reproductions, Audio Note and Daedalus high efficiency designs. Or perhaps something along the lines of Klipsch La Scala or Khorn?
Godd luck and let us know how things turn out whichever way you go.
Then you should already be a happy man?? :)
Anyway, if you haven't done so - lift your speakers off the floor. Use something like the wooden Shunmook elephant legs. This should tighten things up - improve bass and midrange definitions, also better staging and speed in general.
During my 5yrs with the Royal Westminster (early 90s), I rolled quite a number of amps (VTL Ichiban, VTL90, Cary 211, Audion, Ongaku, Jadis JA200, FMA). I found then that they sounded best with 300B based amps. Given too much power, tube or SS, albeit controlled, their bass had a tendency to thicken/bloat thus overpowering the whole presentation when driven hard.
The SET Cary, Audion and Ongaku (note: all incorporate 300Bs somewhere in circuits) were beautiful combinations, but the push pull 90w triode VTL90 Monos (8 x WE 300Bs) imo was the best balanced overall (control and musicality in spades). So yes, ime definitely worthwhile to pursue the 300B route should you plan to keep the Canterbury.
Great speakers, but gotta work extra hard to get the best out of them. When set-up just right, positioning and all - you'll be pleasantly surprised, those huge boxes could actually disappear, and that they could image pretty darn well too! Goodluck.
Bvdiman sounds like he has the experience with these.
His recommendations all sound reasonable to me.
Often, placement within the room, interactions with floors and walls, etc. can make all the difference. Definitely make sure the setup within teh room is optimized as best possible before changing a thing. Its all good stuff, so a little tweaking to the room might turn out to be all that is needed. Other tweaks possible that might help include ICs, speaker wires and power source/outlets.
It sounds like you are close enough where perhaps just a few strategic tweaks might do the job?