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Speakers: Anything really new under the sun?

After a 20-year hiatus (kids, braces, college, a couple of new roofs, etc.) I'm slowly getting back into hi-fi.  My question: is there really anything significantly new in speakers design/development/materials? I'm a bit surprised that the majority of what I see continues to be some variation of a 2- or 3-way design -- many using off-the-shelf drivers -- in a box (usually MDF at it core) with a crossover consisting of a handful of very common, relatively inexpensive components. I'm asking in all sincerity so please don't bash me. I'm not trying to provoke or prove anything, I'm just genuinely curious. What, if anything, has really changed? Would love to hear from some speaker companies/builders here. Also, before one of you kindly tells me I shouldn't worry about new technologies or processes and just go listen for myself -- I get it -- I'll always let my ear be my guide. However, after 20 years, I'm hoping there's been some progress I may be missing. Also, I unfortunately live in a hifi-challenged part of the country -- the closest decent hifi dealer is nearly 3 hours away -- so I can't just run out and listen to a bunch of new speakers. Would appreciate your insights. 

jaybird5619
roxy54's avatar
roxy54
7,634 posts
 

I'm sure they'll come out with a suitably unaffordable subwoofer.

rick2000
464 posts
 

Node Audio’s 3D Printed Hi-Fi Speaker Cabinets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5o2uYAJb3I&t=204s

soundsbeyondspecs
132 posts
 

Allot of great comments here and many positive reviews out there on the OP’s current speakers. Jaybird, installing active crossovers in your current speakers may be a very rewarding project. I have 3-way, 8-ohm cabinets with very stiff cones and surrounds. The sensitivity is in the mid-90 dB’s.   

I’m using a Rane 23B 3-way fully balanced active stereo crossover. Each cabinet driver has a separate amplifier. The L/R balanced leads from the processor plugs into the Rane. The 23B has 3 pairs of balanced outputs for cables to the 6 amplifiers needed for both cabinets, Each speaker has rotary dials on the 23B to Easily set the correct crossover points and volume levels (being especially careful with the Fs limits). The critical info needed is each speakers crossover points. The Fs on manufacturer’s spec sheets is the absolute lowest frequency a speaker can safely handle. The tweeters are most sensitive to this critical setting.

Once you verify the OEM spec crossover points, the rest gets easier. I chose SEA tweets w/ a Fs at 2K, and 7-inch midrange drivers that play up to 4500 hz. To keep the full midrange (300-3000 hz) on one driver, I set the XO between the Mid/Tweeters at 4500 Hz (sounded best/most natural to me), and Bass/midrange drivers at 200 Hz (and again, sounded most natural to me). 

Keeping my processor at low volumes and using a sound level meter, I started with the midrange at full volume on the 23B, then, turned up the bass to match, and lastly matched the tweeters. Then, used the processor’s SET UP feature to set the distances and better match each cabinets volume levels together. The 15 inch woofers play flat to 35 Hz and I added a SVS Ultra sub to play 20-35Hz. Ultimately, I tweeked the 23B volume levels slightly using a frequency test CD by isolating each driver. It was that easy. I still get chills listening to music and haven’t looked back in over 10 years. 

   

larryi
3,712 posts
 

From the institution that brought us the Bose speakers, come this new approach to piezo-electric speakers:

https://news.mit.edu/2022/low-power-thin-loudspeaker-0426

holmz's avatar
holmz
2,328 posts
 

 

Allot of great comments here and many positive reviews out there on the OP’s current speakers. Jaybird, installing active crossovers in your current speakers may be a very rewarding project. I have 3-way, 8-ohm cabinets with very stiff cones and surrounds. The sensitivity is in the mid-90 dB’s.   

I’m using a Rane 23B 3-way fully balanced active stereo crossover. Each cabinet driver has a separate amplifier. The L/R balanced leads from the processor plugs into the Rane. The 23B has 3 pairs of balanced outputs for cables to the 6 amplifiers needed for both cabinets, Each speaker has rotary dials on the 23B to Easily set the correct crossover points and volume levels (being especially careful with the Fs limits). The critical info needed is each speakers crossover points. The Fs on manufacturer’s spec sheets is the absolute lowest frequency a speaker can safely handle. The tweeters are most sensitive to this critical setting.

Once you verify the OEM spec crossover points, the rest gets easier. I chose SEA tweets w/ a Fs at 2K, and 7-inch midrange drivers that play up to 4500 hz. To keep the full midrange (300-3000 hz) on one driver, I set the XO between the Mid/Tweeters at 4500 Hz (sounded best/most natural to me), and Bass/midrange drivers at 200 Hz (and again, sounded most natural to me). 

Keeping my processor at low volumes and using a sound level meter, I started with the midrange at full volume on the 23B, then, turned up the bass to match, and lastly matched the tweeters. Then, used the processor’s SET UP feature to set the distances and better match each cabinets volume levels together. The 15 inch woofers play flat to 35 Hz and I added a SVS Ultra sub to play 20-35Hz. Ultimately, I tweeked the 23B volume levels slightly using a frequency test CD by isolating each driver. It was that easy. I still get chills listening to music and haven’t looked back in over 10 years. 

I generally find it easier to focus on the negatives.

So if the OP was going to do that, then adding some extra dampening and bracing would likely help to tame the resonances.

That Rane looks like it might be worth playing with for me.

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