Speaker stands on spikes or just set-screws? Make a difference?

I recently purchased some nice steel stands. They came with the option of holes in the bottom to attach spikes or not. I opted to get holes + spikes. The spikes which came along with the speakers were not spikes at all, but rather a simple set-screw, like a bolt but without any point at all. I wrote to the stand maker and he said he thought they'd still do a good job of isolating the stand from the floor but also offered a refund for the error. I took the refund. (I'm not disgruntled, mind you; we're talking $40 for 8 nuts and 8 set screws, plus the labor to have drilled holes into the bottoms of the stands. I don't think the price was unreasonable, but they should what they were supposed to be, and the maker agreed.)

In your experience, how important is it for a speaker stand to be on spikes and — given the case described above — do you think that simply perching stands on the included set-screws would do a decent job, even without the spike point?
8700e65e 845e 4b1b 91cc df27687f9454hilde45
I prefer the set screws to spikes. As a matter of fact I use a round carriage bolt instead of the spikes that came with my speaker stands!!
I use carriage bolts too. See my virtual system.
Geeze....are we now going to get a whole new series of threads arguing whether set screws couple or decouple speakers???

Seriously, IMO you were smart to get the threaded holes if only because they give you options going forward. You should look at the posts here discussing spikes vs. more compliant footers, some of which you can mechanically fasten (i.e., using threaded screws) to your speaker stands and some which you can simply position under the stands. I recently went from using a variety of spikes, to using more compliant, decoupling footers under my speakers. I believe the decoupled (i.e., unspiked) options sound better in my system and I have ended up with damped springs under my main speakers and Herbie’s Giant Fat Gliders under my subs. Herbie’s also makes Giant Threaded Stud Gliders that you could screw into your speaker stands to both level and decouple your speakers. Other considerations you can read about are how your floor construction (i.e., suspended wood or concrete slab) can affect the sound depending on which type of footer you use, and also how raising your speakers (with footers) can affect the sound. Finally, whatever method you choose, there are both expensive and inexpensive options for both spikes and decoupling.
Thanks, all. I'll try the set-screws and not worry too much about it. It was just a last minute change I wasn't anticipating and was wondering about your experience. 

@mitch2 I have no need for an extended thread on this. Just gently poking the hive mind. I'm satisfied and grateful for the answers, and appreciate your time in filling in the details of your experience.
Herbie's offers a full 60 day money-back guarantee.  All you need to know is the thread size of the holes.
@twoleftears  Thanks. I've lingered on that site more than once.
Very little.  Stability and how big the footprint is matters much more, but bolts are ugly.

What is important is minimizing the contact area and the motion of the speaker, ESPECIALLY back and forth. 

I'd go with rubber half balls if the stand was stable enough> :)
Thanks, Erik. On my concrete floor with 1/4 carpet, those bolts are invisible and pretty stable. I'll skip the spikes.
@hilde45 , your set screws will probably perform sonically equivalent, or maybe better, than spikes.  In fact, there are several footer manufacturers that offer hard footers with rounded tips.
If you ever decide to consider expanding your options, you may want to look at posts like goose's response yesterday to the following thread since he actually tried a variety of solutions.
@mitch2 Thanks -- good advice and a logical place to go, next.