Spade termination for Vandersteen 2CE Signature ii

I want to terminate two sets of cables with spade connectors for a pair of Vandersteen 2CE Signature ii screw plate hook-up. Vandersteen says the max width for a spade is 7/16ths or .4375 inch. I would like to use Cardas CGMS spades, but their width is .4875 (
One cable I want to reterminate is a AudioQuest Rocket 33. It was banana plug and I stripped it to bare wire. The other set is four runs of Duelund 12AWG.

I am seeking advice on a specific spade to use for the Vandersteen screw plate. Has anyone used the CGMS (I know the specs indicate it would not fit). Any other mfg. recommendations for a spade to use?

I am connecting to a Rogue Cronus Magnum II and a Tandberg 3012A. Any advice is appreciated.

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also, I find soft connectors work best. Hard, rhodium plated materials have a tough time gripping.
Thanks for the recommendations.

erik_squires: What type of soft connectors? Is there a specific material you recommend?
All: Please include a URL or specific spade mfg./item description.
I plan to have these soldered onto the AQ Rocket 33 and the Duelund 12AWG bare wires.

Use a cold solder joint, not actual solder. Here's a great, top end example:

but for core materials copper is really hard to beat. Gold plating over copper is also good, since both are soft, and the gold adds corrosion resistance. Here are much more affordable versions:


Doh!! I meant a cold weld, but really what I meant was a crimp, or crimp onto sleeves, and screws like WBT and Furutech recommend.

Solder is not a very good, high current connection, it should not be used for amp to speakers.

But right inside the speaker and the amp there are soldered connections, so I never really understood the anti-solder argument.  If you refuse to just solder, you may want to think about crimping and then soldering.  There are literally hundreds of solder joints in your dac, preamp, ICs, and amp.  Is eliminating one or two really going to make any difference?

There's a difference between line level electronics and speakers.

The high current connections are between the amp and drivers, so personally I'd discourage it. Notice there are no solder joints between the power outside your house and the electrical outlet. Everything there is a pressure connection. 

Of course, there is solder used in some relatively high current places, like bridge rectifiers and primary filter caps, but the biggest power caps use screws, not solder, to connect.

Forgot one of the important things about solder vs. pressure connections:
Solder is brittle. Over time, movement will make it break or become intermittent faster than pressure connections. This is an important reason why solder is not used where two materials will flex.
There’s a difference between line level electronics and speakers.

Okay, forget line level stuff, although I don’t see how they are less susceptible to the effects of a soldered connection than speaker level connections. Most of the connections inside an amp and inside speakers or crossovers that are "speaker level" are soldered.
Over time, movement will make it break or become intermittent faster than pressure connections. This is an important reason why solder is not used where two materials will flex.
We’re talking about home audio systems that don’t move or vibrate like heavy machinery or production equipment. Our systems live a pretty luxurious life in climate controlled environments and spend most of their time sitting completely still. If your solder connections are breaking, you are doing something very wrong.
Compared to a resistor on a printed circuit board, speaker cables require a lot more flexion.

But man, do whatever you want to. It's not really the ideal solution to use solder on these joints.

How do those Audioquest spades fit on?  I see no screws, but just threading on the inside of the collar.
The Vampire Wire BAR spades fit the terminals perfectly and are reasonable.  They will take a 10 awn speaker cable with no problem.
The AQ are crimp ons, I believe.  Make sure you have the right tool. :)

Thanks for all of the recommendations. I have used Cardas spades before with a pair of early 2CEs and liked them. Can I not use them on the new 2CE Sig iis because they don't make one narrow enough to fit that screw plate? The WBTs are very nice, but expensive. I'll look into the AQ and Vampire BARs as well. Would it be OK just to crimp, or do I need to solder or cold weld to secure connection? I am interested in hearing from anyone who has used various spades specifically on the 2CE sig iis.Thanks everyone.
jwpstayman (or anyone else):
I have tried to contact Vampire Wire through their website email notification with no success. Does anyone have a email or phone # I could contact them through? Any other recommendations of good copper/gold spades for the 2CE Sig II screwplate is appreciated.

If you need a horse, why look for a zebra.   Richard's indication of spade is not only fine, but perfect.
jackd: I didn't know they sold on other sites. I like to communicate with a mfg. before doing business. Thanks for sending the links. I bought the Vampires from Douglas Connection.

stringreen: Dunno what you mean. Richard recommends a brand of spades? Or, spades in general (my understanding)?
As an update, I put the Vampire BAR spades on the AudioQuest Rocket 33s and they sound fantastic. Thanks for all of the recommendations. I have put up another post requesting RCA male plug recommendations for a set of Cardas Quadralink 5s that I am splitting into two ICs.
OP the Tandberg amp is a SS killer
always underappreciated
but awesome sounding 

have fun

dont overtorqe the spades

tomic601: I absolutely agree. A highly engineered and very sweet sounding 100 WPC work of art. I recently had mine restored.