Spacers for Rega P3

Am I the only one who thinks that the tonearm in the Rega P3 is mounted a bit too low ?
It seems that it needs to climb a few mm on its way to the record.
The solution is very simple: a spacer... but wouldn't Rega use a spacer on the stock P3 if one was needed ?
Should I add a spacer ? What size ? 2mm or 4 mm ?
2mm usually works
Are you using a Rega cartridge? If so, then you should not need a spacer. Any other brand of cartridge would likely require 2mm or more.
As pointed out, a spacer is not needed when using the, rather short, Rega cartridges. And the arm is not mounted a bit too low, though it may be mounted a bit too low for your cartridge. The height of the spacer that you will need is dependent on the height of your cartridge and the alignment of your stylus and cantilever angle.
I added TWO 2mm Rega spacers for my Benz Glider on the Rega P5 I own.
I tried playing a LP with no mat. (that's about 2mm as if it had a spacer. It was better, so I ordered the spacers. The 4mm I added is just right. (with the mat back on!)
With my Rega P3-24/Exact 2 combination (Rega cartridge with Rega arm) .....NO SPACERS REQUIRED ! My dealer advises that spacers will be needed if I switch to a "taller" cartridge (Benz, Dynavector, etc.)
Pete Riggles makes a really nice VTA adjustment for your arm/table. Might be a good choice. Check him out at
I'm not sure what type of cartridge I have but it is not the original Rega. It seems taller.
Can anyone identify it (Nottingham ?)and figure out the height of spacer needed ?
The photo of my cartridge again:
Rega recently introduced an adjustable spacer, but it's only for their 3 point mount tonearms. The current P3 has such an arm, but some older models use a single large nut to secure the arm and this spacer will not work with them. The adjustable spacer sells for $29 in the US.
I found it !
I have the "Nottingham Analogue Tracer 1".
The first one on this list:¬=&prlo=&prhi=
Now can anyone tell me the spacer I need ?
Loosen your arm's lock nut and slide some playing cards beneath the arm base, one at a time, until you get the height you want. Then measure the thickness of the cards. (If you have a feeler gauge, use that instead of cards of course.)

As for what height to choose, we can't tell you even after learning the model of your cartridge because there are too many variables (record thickness, mat thickness, cartridge suspension wear, etc.). What matters is how the music sounds at various arm heights, and no one can tell that but you.

The VTAF mentioned by Sounds_real_audio would give you flexibility to adjust for different LP's, or different cartridges for that matter.

OTOH, if you just want a set-and-forget height, choose a typical thickness LP and make the armtube level. That's close enough for those not inclined to tweak for optimum sonics.


P.S. Whatever height you end up at, don't forget to recheck your tracking force. Changing arm height on a Rega alters the VTF slightly.

Thanks for the Thorough reply.
Will do as you suggested.

By the way, How tight should screws 1 & 2 in this picture be closed.
I recently installed the Isokinetic cardas rewire kit (excellent upgrade) and had to mess with them. I ended up closing them in a way that allows me to adjust counter weight but use a bit of force in order to do it. I there a torque figure for that ?

The result of your card test is 2mm.
The mid sounds much better now. Could 2 mm have such an effect ?
I'll order a 2mm spacer.
The mid sounds much better now. Could 2 mm have such an effect ?
Apparently! Why doubt the evidence of your own ears?

Technically, if you think of it from the perspective of microscopic stylus riding inside a microscopic groove, an arm change of 2mm is pretty massive.