SP10 Mk II vs Mk III


A couple of guys here were planning to do listening comparisons of the Technics SP10 Mk II vs the Mk III, in their own homes and systems. Has anyone actually completed such a comparison? I am wondering whether the "upgrade" to the Mk III is actually worth it in terms of audible differences between the two tables. Possibly mounting either table in a well done wooden or slate plinth mitigates any sonic differences that would otherwise be heard. I am thinking of Albert Porter and Mike Lavigne in particular, who were going to do the comparison. Thanks for any response.
lewm

Showing 13 responses by lonestarsouth

I will then look into replacing the capacitors in my SP-10 mkII. I am just scared of damaging the unit in one way or another.
I recently got my hands on a NOS Tech SP-10 mkII. How does it measure up to other current high-end t/tables?
Lewm

I am using the NOS machine for nearly 4 months now with no problem. It is indeed NOS. I was the first to remove the plastic baggies around all the parts taped shut with that anti-tamper green sticky tape. It was like pure sin.

I realise that the RB300 arm is not the best.
Guys!

I have to be honest and say that a tube-based power supply for a turntable such as a SP-10 mkII or III will not be worth the effort at all. The incoming DC power from the PSU is regulated and modulated in a complex manner that will void any "tube-iness". The SP-10 motors are precision devices that operates in a different way than amplifiers. One should not treat it electrically as a piece of audio gear but rather a precision instrument. As long as the stock PSU are operating within specs then it will be the best partner for the motor unit.

Anyway, the stock PSU is much more better designed and constructed than most other audio related PSUs. If only half the worlds audiophile amplifier PSUs were so well designed and regulated then this would have been a much more sane place. This is why I am working on a SE tube amp with a super-regulated PSU. Its not over-kill, it just makes sense.
Jloveys,

Making a single plinth from lead surely is not a catastrophe. The designer of such a plinth should also think of ways to seal the lead to prevent oxidization and lead poisoning. You only have to start worry about lead contamination when someone dumps a used car battery on a dumpsite or in a eco-sensitive area. There is much more worse things to worry about such as the thousands of people dying in Zimbabwe of cholera due to an incompetent government. Walker Audio turntables are made of lead but the structures are sealed with specialist materials to protect the environment and the lead itself. There is also still people on this planet living with lead fillings in their teeth!!

Please dont get me wrong, I care for the environment a great deal but I would rather channel my rage and energy towards mega-factories the churns out thousands of gallons of toxic gasses rather than get upset with a chap in the US who wants to make a lead plinth for his turntable.
Anybody aware of the SAEC SBX-7 plinth for the SP-10 mkII? http://yasshin.hp.infoseek.co.jp/saecsbx7.htm

Atmasphere, you've got a point though. Lead is not optimal - its got high mass but is 'unstable'.

I would rather go for a fiber-loaded (incl aggregates) compound that is pour-cast and then CNCd.
Lewm and guys

Do you think I should re-cap my SP-10 mkII that is "virtually brand new"?
I for one would not dream of modifying my SP-10 mkII in any way. Got it "new in box" so its a bit of a gem. I enjoy it as it is. Excellent machine even with mediocre ancillaries (blush blush).
Albert, a while ago I got Janis Ian's "Live: Working without a net" and on that cd there is the track "Tattoo" as featured on the marvelous "Breaking Silence" LP.

I was stunned all over again at how the LP version, played back on the SP-10 mkII, trounces the CD version in the PRaT dept. Okay, lets face it, I dont own a great cd player but still.
"Also, regarding restoring the deck - I don't think I'm so perfectionist to pay 500 pounds to restore the surface of the deck. I was thinking of something on the order of an auto body place - something where I could tape up everything except the top and side surfaces and have them do a nice job. I know it would be a departure from the original, but this is a second deck - and it wouldn't bother me, as long as it looks good! "

My first SP-10 mkII looked real bad. Scratched and oxidized. I stripped all the parts from the alu chassis and carefully sanded it down. Took it to an auto-body-shop and had it spray-painted in jet black 2K enamel. Looked ultra sleek. If you do it properly it will look great.

BTW - You did get the SP-10 mkII in matt black - they are just very rare. My friend has a black SP-10 mkII. I can send a photo if you like.
"Lonestarsouth, What did you do re the on/off button, when you had the chassis painted? Did you leave it in brushed chrome? That would look cool."

Yes. I left it original. The Technics factory original black SP-10 mkII also had the button in aluminum finish.
Lewm, I am sure I can make a copy of my SP-10 mkII service manual. I got it with the machine in the box.