I have the Sony TTS-8000 (which I bought to experiment with) in condition which resembles NOS (not a scratch or fingerprint anywhere) but have not yet put it in a plinth. I do not have the 1600 arm. I had planned on putting it in a better plinth than the original, and had planned on using either a MA505Mk2/3 or a SAEC arm.
I also own, but have not yet plinthed, a Technics SP-10 Mk2. If I had to compare the two, I would say the Sony has a more mid 70s aesthetic, while the Technics more of a late 70s thing going (though strictly speaking it should be the other way around probably). That's about as good a comparison as I can make (I know - not what you were looking for:^).
I will be interested to see if anyone else comes up with a comment. Have you found a TTS-8000? I would not have figured there were many of them left out there (though some went to the UK originally).
FWIW, I don't have specs for torque, either in the instructions or service manual, and so I expect it will be lower than for the SP-10Mk2 (though the PS-X9 was slightly higher if I recall). Do you have the torque spec by any chance?
I have my eye on two. One with the "sample" plinth with lifing arms and two armboards. The other on the
T1000 plinth. Both have the 1600L installed. I don't know the torque spec but understand they will take a heavy clamp. I'll look around for that spec and let you know if I find it. I would guess these would love a new plinth. Do you have someone in mind to make one or are you making your own?
Interesting, I had not seen one outside Japan for a while...
Not sure now about the plinths. Was going to make my own, only because I did not find one with plinth, but if I could get the TB-2000, I would probably take it. It is a pretty bulky/heavy plinth on its own. I don't know if the one with the arms is as good - though if they were the same price, I would go for the one with two arm slots. FWIW, I have never seen replacement armboard slots (though they must exist somewhere).
I have the Victor TT101 in a Japanese heavy lead plinth with soft rubber feet similar to the TB-2000 - works great, total isolation from vibration. I also got the PUA 1600L at the same time and I use that as well on an SP-10 and a Micro-Seiki RX-5000. Great arm, simple to set up and use. Seems to work best with mid compliance carts, not in the same league though as my Audiocraft AC-4400. For the money it is a great buy, and I understand the audiophiles in Europe are just beginning to recognize the stellar performance of this vintage arm. I would rate it on a par with the FR 64Fx silver and a tad below the Triplanar. I have not rewired it yet and that would be an upgrade to enhance performance I suspect. I also like the Yamamoto wood headshell in preference to the Sony as it smooths out the cartridges. I like my Sony XL-55 Pro II with the 1600L and of course this is a fixed headshell cart. On the other hand I struggle to get my Technics EPC 205C Mk 3 to work well in this arm, so I conclude that a low compliance cart will not be as good.
I would like to try the PUA-9 versus the 1600 as the PUA-7 I have on my Sony PSX-70 is a very nice arm, albeit wired in semi auto mode. Don't see PUA-9's come up for sale though, unless on a big Sony deck. Still lusing after a PS-X9!
Hope that helps
i think the TTS-8000 is one of the best DD's in the world.
Analoghifi, I applaud your sentiments (cuz I got one) but can you elaborate? As a first and so far only post to Audiogon, eager readers have no basis of reference. Have you compared it to anything? Found it better or worse in any particular way? have you listened to it in original, after-market, or custom plinth? Eager readers want to know...
and sorry i forgot my system release. Here is a picture of my TTS-8000. This plinth was only for testing, but it runs over 1 year. ;-) http://i39.tinypic.com/32znbe1.jpg
Currently, I plan a new plinth.
Thanks much Analoghifi. Your system components speak volumes by themselves (but the TTS-8000 appears to be the only DD). Any info you had on the motor of the TTS-8000 would be welcome. I am specifically looking for a torque number...
I found this thread just today and don't know if you are still looking, but the inertia (which assume same as torque) is listed as 1.2kg/cm. I have just bought a TTS-8000 and a TTS-6000 and also have a Sony PUA-1600L. It will take a while to get them set up as I need to get or make a plinth first. I will report findings once done.
Please do report your findings.
I have seen the 1.2kg-cm number "inertia" number posted on The Vintage Knob spec page. I expect that is supposed to be the torque number because it is not an inertia number (it is a couple of hundred times too low I think to be the right inertia moment spec - which can't be very high on this table I don't think).
Just found this thread. I have just paid for and am awwaiting a Sony TTS8000. I have to say that I absolutely love the styling. I remember reading a review in Hi-Fi World and the author thought it was great - likewise Hi-Fi News recently tested one and gave it a great review. In addition to this JCarr commented elsewhere that he preferred this and other slotless designs in the thread 'stand out phono stages'. I could not resist. The thing that I am really looking forward to is plinth(ing) it and having a bake of with my other decks (EMT 950 still needs to be sorted out). I am curious about a few things:
1. Which modern arm will best go with the tts 8000
2. Which carrtridge would you use with the TTS
3. Wood, slate, panzerholz??? what's the ultimate plinth material?
I am convinced that one will need an arm cartridge that is perhaps a bit on the warm side of neutral with great imaging properties - what say you
Here are my thoughts:
(1) Choose tonearm to match cartridge. Just about any tonearm will work on the TTS8000, except before purchasing a 12-incher you might check to be sure it fits the armboard.
(2) See my response to (1)
(3) Wood vs slate vs Panzerholz (which is a kind of wood, after all). These materials can all give excellent results if the plinth is otherwise properly designed and engineered. I personally have found that a combo of slate and a hardwood (cherry, not Panzerholz) is the most neutral I've ever heard, but in fairness, I have never "heard" a Panzerholz plinth.
The deck unfortunately is a motor unit, so I I have to build a plinth. That said it allows me to cook up a design of my own. I was going to design it to take two arms - one of which will accommodate a Townshend Rock Trough - I have at my disposal the following arms:
Jelco st 250/mission equivalent
I am just concerned that a p inch arm may not be long enough and I need to get a 10.5 or 12 inch arm - that's mean i can't use my trough - although I may get someone to make one for me.
Thanks for the plinth advice - my only concern with soli hardwood is sourcing planks that are sufficiently 'cured' and warp free - as you may know from the thread/storm I seemed to have created with the 'wooden arms warp' thread I have done cabinet making etc, and whilst I am very fond of wood I may be unable to get my hands on sufficiently aged and dried planks - but try I shall...
You're very courageous if you are going to make the plinth from raw wood planks. I created an engineering drawing of what I wanted and gave it to a "real" carpenter, who made the base for me out of solid cherry. (Sounds like you yourself have some real carpentry skills; I do not.)
I then mated that base to a slate plinth that I had previously commissioned. I bought the slate slab in PA, had it cut and honed by the company that sold the slate to me. They then shipped the slab to a water-jet company, also in PA, where the slate was cut to accept the chassis of my SP10 Mk3. The slate slab and the wood base are held together by 6 or 7 large bolts that engage threaded inserts I installed into the bottom side of the slate. Then the Mk3 chassis is bolted through both layers, top to bottom. The slate alone was "very good", but I think the slate + cherry is even more neutral. (What else would one say after so much time, effort, and aggravation?)
Now I am good at building things and thinking mechanically - but electrics - aaahhhh.
With wood it is a case of measure twice and cut once. Most wood can be sourced such that it is largely pre-mahined - therefore leaving one to do the final finishing.
Before I bore you... Back in the day my dad used to teach (I use the term loosely) me to use a router, wood turn, and use a bandsaw before I was 11/12 years old (Fortunately child protection issues weren't such a big topic in those days).
The thought of a plinth does not worry me, nor does the design. The only thing with wood is dust (I am allergic so have to use big masks when machining).
If the design goes to plan I will put images on my virtual system thread so everyone can see - there's not much/if any info on the web about the TTS 8000 or the plinths - SP10's have a wealth of info and plinths.
What I am curious about is what one should do about the TTS 8000 PCB. I understand that when refurbing a Japanese DD one normally:
1. replaces the capacitors - the people in the know Thalman, Krebs, Dave Cawley all seem to favour Panasonic - I wonder why - would Black Gates and Vishay's be any better?
2. replaces old transistors - if so which make or does it make a difference
3. resolders the PCB - What is interesting is that part of the potential advantage of modern day solder vis a vis 60's/70's solder that was lead based is that the new stuff does not corrode as much or as badly as lead solder. Lead solder is easy to work with though.
4. Gets the Krebs mod - I think I will do this post plinth and electrical refurb - let me enjoy it then move the deck forwards - I must say Richard Krebs is a really nice guy - a proper enthusiast
Maybe I should have started another thread, instead of hijacking this one - so sorry in advance - it's just that the TTS 8000 has not got another thread on Audiogon
Finally got it through the post (tight fit LOL) - I bought from Foxtan in Hong Kong on ebay - this aint a plug - but he is straight as a die.