Sony Playstation 1 for a CD player ???

I've got the bug now.
I stripped out the caps in the P Supply and replaced them with correct voltage but slightly higher capacitance new ones.
Put it all in a Maplins cast alu box, extended the power carrying cables and made it with an IEC mains socket instead of the awful figure of 8.
It's better again - the SMPS must interfere a lot - as everyone says it does. Blimey.
The bigger caps must give it more headroom too.
I'm also going to change the capacitors that smooth out the power to the DAC and see what happens.
I saw a pic of someone who has done it and so - I will too !!
The ultimate has to be Oscons or Black gates but that type of investment can wait until I get the urge to re case the whole thing.
I'm guessing that a nice wood box and rigidly mounted transport and loads of mass will change it again.
Has anyone actually done it yet and noticed any improvement?
Still loving it but I guess it's not really a PS 1 anymore.
It's more like a CD player DIY Kit comprising transport / laser, Dac and power supply.
What the hell, I still havn't spent £ 35 !
Now that is worrying.

Andysolder,

I have found with "super" mods, one has to be careful not to completely change the sound signature of the original Playstation. Otherwise, it loses a bit of that Playstation "magic" that a lot of people find alluring. It does come down to personal preferences how far to go with the mods.

My recommendation would be to start with Model SCPH-5501 as it has the improved laser unit compared Model SCPH-1001. At the same time, it shares the same AKM4309 DAC as Model SCPH-1001. Your thinking that an improved suspension would be a welcome upgrade since the stock Playstation is suspectible to skipping with the slightest bump or vibration.

Rich

If i have PS1...SCHP-100X...do i need the controller?

Please advise.Thanks.pescolar

outside of turning the unit on and off, you need the controller

***********PS1 SCPH 1001 OR PS1 SCPH-5501***************

WHICH ONE OF THE MODEL ARE MOST AFTER SOUGHT AND

AUDIOPHILES MOST FAVORITE ?

Does anyone know the difference between a model 1001 and a model 101? I picked up a model 101 today from my local pawn shop for $15.00 just for fun. It does have RCA connectors, but these are not on the back of the unit, they are on the end of the cable from the AV multi out.

Thanks,

Greg

SCPH-101 is the newer model, circa 2000. The reason SCPH-1001 is highly sought after is due to its excellent AKM single bit DAC and dedicated RCA output. I don't know which DAC SCPH-101 employs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation

Hello! guys..any specific wireless remote control model # for SCHP-1001.
Please,advise.Thanks.

i'll stick with my $20 magnavox

Thanks Jaylee, The 101 is lacking a lot of detail and the highs roll off very quickly. It also sounds very closed in. It does have a smooth sound and OK mids for what that's worth. For $15.00 it was fun to play with anyway.

Finally got one last week and able to play the cd by using the controler.This thing really play cd and lot's of fun.This will stay in the garage for now and i left it on 24/7.

IF I REPLACE THE REGULAR POWER CORD TO A PS AUDIO C7 CORD..IS THERE ANY IMPROVEMENT ?

BTW,THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT I LEARNED SOMETHING AGAIN !

Pescolar,

An upgrade from the stock power cord to the PS Audio Xstream Power Punch C7 is worth the $50 investment. The result is better dynamic range, a punchier and better defined bass and lower noise floor. An even better power cord is the Furutech G-320Ag-18F8. A friend brought his over and let me audition it with my Playstation. It's even more refined than the PS Audio cord, but it's also more than double the price. Jeff Day of Six Moons gave it a Blue Moon Award.

Rhing...it's on sale for $29.99 now plus shipping.I can use this in my other gear or may be will use for PS1.

Is there any adaptor that i can use?
Thanks.

The only adapters I know of convert a three-prong IEC to a two-prong C7 (or "Figure 8") connector, and not the other way around. You need a power cord that has the two-prong connector on the component end of the cable. If you don't mind using the IEC-to-C7 adapter, you can use any IEC power cord to power your Playstation.

As I mentioned elsewhere in these forums, a friend of mine has an expensive Kimber Select power cord that he used with one of those adapters for powering his Playstation. After auditioning a PS Audio Xstream Power Punch C7 power cord that I loaned to him for a week, he purchased a PS C7 power cord for himself. Apparently, the adapter didn't do that great of a job.

Just out of curiosity, will Playstation2 cut it?

nope. its the ps1 or bust. diamond in the rough

Tried 2 older ps1 again. Still no magic just ok sound. Used good cables units are in good working order. Both sound the same. We will use for linkied ps1 games as a cd player not so good. But as with all things cheap in audio folks will say best ever, a giant killer heard this so many times with so much cheap kit. PS1 is not a giant killer but for $25 it will play cds. Maybe thats the whole deal not sound quality but that it can sound ok for peanuts. So if $25 for cd play back sparks you go ps1.

Bummer Johnk. You make it sound like it was a $30 cd player or something.

I have a 3 year old Sony DVD player, NSH52P I think, cost $100 at the time. Has incredible timbres and a smooth analog sound. Not the deepest bass and rolled off on the treble, and it doesn't have the greatest detail or imaging, but the timbres are shockingly good. Vocals extremely realistic sounding.

I compared it to a $3000 MF A5 in a high end store and the owner's son could not tell any difference.

It is ahead of a PS3 I have. Much more natural sound, but less detailed. The DVD Player also responds very well to IC upgrades.

I just put an MDF shelf under the PS3, it was sitting on glass. Sound is seriously good now, better than the DVD player - good timbres, great tonal balance, good detail. Clear bargain as a standalone CD player for $300 or so. It is far better than my current Audiolab 8000CD (new series Audiolab).

Given it does so much else, a HUGE BARGAIN.

Has anyone compared PS1 to PS3?

Yes I have a fried who uses their Sony Playstation 1 for a CD player. I have to admit that their music sounds great when they have it playing. And, of course, the only paid about $300 to acheive that sound.

Since I found out that PS1 can be used as a cd player and by replacing the stock cord with PS Audio Xstream Power Punch C7....now I can tell......" Lot's of Fun to Listen to my music .Also I am using the remote control...just turn play and stop..Btw, in my system...uhhm..good enough bass.I've always thought that I am playing a turntable w/o a hisss...shhhhsss.Btw,I have another 2 PS1 as my back up...just in case.

I bought one a couple years ago, it kept skipping. I then bought a second one on ebay. Same problem. Then finally a third cause they were so cheap. It happened again! I even opened it up to bias the laser as explained online. No help. The sound is alright, smooth if anything. The output is less than normal cd players so keep that in mind.

After reading this thread finally bought one the other day for $12.00.

I can not believe my ears. Really does sound as good as my wonderful Arcam FMJCD23, and WELL beyond my OPPO 983. The OPPO sounds horrible on redbook cd's compared to the old Sony PS1.

What a great purchase........and the who needs the remote anyway. I always listen to cd's all the way through.

For 12 bucks I might even pick up a spare.

Is anybody making a business out of modding these things yet? I love the smooth sound, but the roll off in the extremes gets to me, and there's more detail to be had.

10-20-09: Eugene81
Is anybody making a business out of modding these things yet?

Try user Rhing -- he's done some mods before. Read some earlier posts in this thread on his results.

Thanks Tholt. Email me for more info on mods.

You're welcome. Sounds like you're more then capable with the experience and results you've reported. Plus, my impression is that you're just a nice guy. next time i get the ps1 in the system, I'll hit you up.

Yep, I've got two SCPH-1001's as CD players. I think I paid $15-20 for each. I have one running with a vintage Fisher X-100 integrated tube amp and Klipsch Forte II's. Wow, what a sweet sounding combination! I'm using Audioquest Copperhead interconnects to the Sony.

Nice analog sounding unit for the digital shy.
The PS1 is the CD player that is worth the money x100.

Now also playing with the Walmart Yardmaster speaker wires.
Anyone have anything to share about time and what you will hear during break-in?
Also what about the potential that they are directional as indicated concerning the TAS Home Depot cables?

Just wanted to second the suggestion for rhing. I recently bought a modded PS1 from him and he was extremely helpful and took great pains to ensure that I was getting the best quality for my money. This entailed redoing the mods on a new second player before he sent it to me as the first one he worked on had laser issues. I have put in the Power Punch C7 cord and an Isoclean fuse as per his recommendations and the player sounds phenomenal and its not even fully burned in yet.

I haven't checked this thread in a while.

DaffyD54, thanks for the good word. I'm glad you're pleased with the mods. As the player settles in, you'll be amazed at what details and dynamic slam you hear.

Bottleflow, I use the Walmart White Lightning Moonshine (WLM) speaker cables with my upgraded Klipsch Forte IIs and modded EL84 push-pull tube amp. It shouldn't take too long for the cables to burn-in. The sound just becomes refined in all areas with use. I thought they sounded really good from the start.

Oldwiz, you have a nice set-up. I love my Klipsch Forte IIs. With your Fisher X-100, you must be in aural heaven. I believe the Forte IIs were made to play with EL84 amps.

I upgraded my speakers with crossover repair kits, new Titanium tweeter diaphragms and new internal wiring from Bob Crites (http://www.critesspeakers.com/). These upgrades have transformed my Forte IIs with tighter, better defined bass, a smoother midrange and treble and greater detail. I also installed some Pomona Electronics 3770-x Tellurium Copper 5-way binding posts that are just as good as the more expensive boutique binding posts from Eichmann, Cardas and WBT. With this set-up, I feel I have a system that rivals a comparable analog set-up.

This Spring, I am taking a vacuum tube amp building class at San Francisco's Randall Museum. We're building Direct Reactance Drive (DRD) 300B SET monoblocks, so I'll have to see if the 300B amps do better than my little EL84 push-pull amp.

Hola Rhing and other a'gonners. I'm using a Yaqin tube buffer with my PS-1 now and it really improved the fun factor, besides rendering a nicier sound. It's amazing what you can get for so low money.

I've heard good things about the Yaqin tube buffer. For the Playstation, a tube linestage further improves the sound quality. The Playstation's output is around 1 to 1.5V, so some gain tremendously improves the overall sound quality.

I am posting here for those who browse this thread. I recently purchased a mint condition Audio Research LS7 linestage to use with my modified Playstation 1. Even though it sold as an "entry-level" all tube linestage in ARC's line-up back in 1995-1997, this is an excellent linestage and allows all the detail through from the modified Playstation. Not only do I get exceptional solid bass and treble extension, but I also hear greater timbral detail, more space between the instruments/performers and that holographic soundstage that tube amps provide. The LS7 is transparent, and that added gain really makes a difference in extracting the most out of the Playstation.

Anybody else try the Yaqin ms-12b as a tube buffer with the ps1?

I just got a 1001 off CL and use it to complete my cheapo cheapest ever system. It really does sound wonderful with my HLLY tamp-20 driving Forte IIs. Total outlay for my source and amp; $79! Use it mostly outside on my ground level deck with the Fortes backed by a brick wall. I love the sound and it has amazed mor than a few people!
To me there is such a WTF factor to see this old Playstation and tiny amp making beautiful "full range" music that sounds great. IMO this thing does qualify as a "giant killer", super cheap is an understatement($15) and it really does sound very nice. And I love the "cheese factor".

You'd be surprised with what some modifications and tweaks to your Hlly T-amp, Playstation 1 and Klipsch Forte II's would do. I have replaced the caps in my Forte II's crossovers, replaced the internal wiring, and the stock Phenolic tweeter diaphragms with Titanium diphragms from Bob Crites Speakers. On my Tripath TA2020-based T-amp (similar to the Hlly), I installed better Panasonic FM low ESR caps for DC decoupling and new signal input caps. Then, of course, I modified the output stage and power supply in my Playstation. I use the T-amp as a power amp with my Audio Research LS7 line stage preamp. A little DIY and about $200 in parts will transform your system to one rivaling a $2,000-$3,000 system.

Rhing, thanks for the tips. I am aware of the upgrade potential for this system. My first move will be new Crites tweeter diaphragms. I have limited tech knowledge. Wonder if the crossover can be split so I could use another amp for the woofers?
I like the Chinese approach to these little amps. They seem to watch how the DIYers mod them and incorporate the upgrades in the next generation. I have read about a "DC coupling" mod, but as I said before, I wish I knew my way around a soldering iron.
I have used my Grounded Grid pre with this setup, but usually use the amp alone. Thinking about getting something like a Little Dot mkIII to compliment the tiny amp.

Not sure about splitting the crossover so you can run two amps driving the Klipsch Forte's. I'm perfectly fine with using one amp. A good preamp will provide the needed gain to bring the Playstation's low output to an acceptable line level, so that all your T-amp needs to do is drive the speakers. The Grounded Grid preamp is a decent circuit, but can be much improved with good parts and tweaks to the design.

For the most part, I am not a big fan of Chinese hi fi equipment. I know that some brands have decent quality, but I've mostly found that parts and build quality are really lacking. I've been burned too many times with Chinese audio goods falling apart and just not sounding that great in stock form. More often than not, I find myself repairing them more than enjoying them.

I guess I am speaking specifically about the t-amps, what I have read, and only from my limited experience.
Really referring to the way they take notes from the DIY crowd. I know that even the second generation benefit from part upgrades and mods.

Just wanted to report that my PS has been 100% reliable. Despite reports of overheating problems, I have used it out on my deck many times for extended listening in summer temps without a hitch. Also, in totally stock form, I think it sounds excellent (unlike some other hyped "budget wonders"). The $15 I paid for it puts the price/performance ratio in the down right ludicrous zone!

Thats great news Blkadr, you got a nice player for the price.

Made some "white lightning" speaker cables yesterday. I used the walmart cord, Lowes shrink tubing and Nakamichi banana plugs from ebay. Total cost was $19. The bananas were $5 for set of 8 including shipping from China. I had to stretch the 1/4" tubing a little with needle nose pliers to get them to slide onto the bananas, but it worked like a charm.
They seem to do the job. I think I will find some rca plugs and an other cord and make a few ICs.

You'll be surprised at how good the RCA interconnects made from the Wood's Patio cord from Walmart will sound. I made my first pair as described in Jeff Day's Six Moons article. The Switchcraft 3502A RCA connectors are very good and the Switchcraft 3502AAU Gold-plated, long body connectors are even better. Instead of using cheap Brass, Switchcraft uses a Copper-Sn alloy that's almost as good as Copper itself. They're very reasonably priced as Switchcraft mass produces them here in the U.S. They're designed for pro audio use and maintain a very strong grip. The Canare F-10 male RCA connectors are very good too.

The second pair I made, I stripped the white Vinyl jacket off the three AWG 16 conductors and made a tri-braided cable using the Switchcraft 3502A RCA connectors (similar to the Kimber PBJ). I used one conductor for the signal (+), and two for the ground (-). I was very careful to evenly braid the individual wires. I later compared these to more expensive cables I borrowed from friends including Kimber PBJ's, AudioQuest Diamondback's and Kimber KCAG's. The Kimber KCAG's won out as expected, but the tri-braided White Lightning Moonshine sounded as good as the Kimber PBJ's and trounced the more expensive AudioQuest Diamondback's. Compared to the original White Lightning Moonshine design, the tri-btraided cable was more extended and transparent.

I recommend that you put the interconnects through a long burn-in period before you make any judgments. Sending 2V or less line-level signals through these cables will not break these cables in quickly. However, once your interconnects are burned in, you'll be surprised just how balanced and detailed they sound from top to bottom.

As for the Walmart speaker cables, the best bargain dual banana plugs that work really well with the Walmart cable are the Neutrik NYS508. There's no soldering involved, as you only have to crimp on the connectors with set screws using a small screwdriver. Another good banana connector are the Homegrown Audio LOK Suregrip BFA connectors. These are similar to the Multicontact LS-4 connectors that Jeff Day recommends, but they don't require soldering.

I encourage you to check out Mick Feuerstein's Web pages on modiying the Playstation. Modding the Playstation really takes Red Book CD playback to another level. You'll really be able to take advantage of the Walmart cables then.

You can get PS1 for $5-$10, direct DAC -> RCA output parts $5-$10 plus a little soldering. For the price the sound can't be beat. The cost of mods should not exceed the cost of the player. Modifying $10 player with $500 parts and $200 "audiophile" power cords is just silly. If you are ready to spend $300-$500 buy yourself a MHZS CD player and do $10 modifications there.

Just received my PS1 (model 1001) purchased from Ebay. This thing does sound good. I'm using the supplied cheap RCA interconnects. Being too careful, I was reluctant to hook it up to my Cary Audio SLI-80 F1 tube integrated amp. So, I hooked it up to my Denon 1908 receiver. Wow! Right away there was a huge difference. I demonstrated to the wife - in a blind test - the PS1 vs PS3 and there was no contest. PS3 on by a technical knockout, lol. She was impressed. I'm going to let it undergo proper break-in for the next several hours before I experience it in my tube amp.

Planned upgrades: I'm not into mods, but I'll upgrade the power cord to PS Audio C7 or Furutech G-320Ag-18F8 power cable. Replace the cheap RCA interconnects with audiophile ones. I've read somewhere that upgrading the fuse also helps. I'm considering the Isoclean fuses. This should further improve this amazing CD player. To be honest, its made my Vinyl sound weak!

Heat wave, 103-104 last week. Used my PS1 outside while I played with my little one in her pool during peak temps without issue.
Don't think I will be buying a $200 power cord or $50 fuse for it. Wouldn't it make more sense to bypass the fuse and risk my initial $15 investment?

Just want to share my personal experience:

I’m running a SCPH-1001 with the dogbreath mod to the output stage with electrolytic DC blocking caps, upgraded RCA cables and a tube preamp buffer. For the power supply, I’ve replaced the stock unit with a good quality linear power supply. If I had to summarize the sound with one word, it would be “ridiculous.” This setup is better than my CD transport and DAC which if you include the upgraded power cables, coax cable, etc. rings up to around $1,100. That’s right, the 1st generation PS1 is besting an $1,100 transport/DAC setup at somewhere around a quarter the price including mods and the power supply. 

Now it doesn’t do everything better. The bass isn’t as crisp and the highs don’t have as much “sparkle.” Whereas the transport/DAC is capable of delivering a forceful punch in the bass department, the PS1 is more akin to a quick shove, but still impressive. What the PS1 does right is completely worth the slight trade offs. The mids are ever so impressive. Stringed instruments have a realism that I’ve not heard before. Horns sounds right. I think where the PS1 really shines is that instruments just sound realistic. It doesn’t have that hyper-realistic sound in the highs that so many digital setups try to reproduce but usually fail at miserably which causes listener fatigue and while it’s impressive for a short while, it leaves you thinking, “this isn’t what instruments actually sound like.” The PS1, especially with the mods and upgraded power supply, has the most analog sound I’ve ever heard out of a digital system.