Solution for Schitt Loki wall-wart power supply?

I have a Schiit Loki EQ in my system. Because CD SQ varies so much, it makes no sense to me to not have some sort of tone control option. 

The Loki has a cheap wall-wart and I'm wondering whether my system might benefit from an improvement in this particular area. I don't "currently" have any sort of power conditioner. Before I bought teh Loki, a buddy brought over one of the top-tier PS Audio power regenerator/conditioner devices and neither of us could detect any resulting improvement in SQ, so I don't think I need to address power conditioning for the entire system. 

The Loki wall-wart is plugged into a Cullen Cable outlet receptacle box, along with the power cords for my DAC and CD transport. 

I'd prefer not to spend more than, say $400 at the most. This is an area of audio about which I know very little. 

There are linear power supplies (some very expensive). Is a more economical option like those offered by Small Green Computer
worth considering?

Would it make sense to use something like the Shunyata Venom Defender or Nordost , NORDOST QK1 QKoil Load Resonanting CoilPower Conditioner, plugged into the same wall outlet with the Cullen?

Suggestions? Other/better options? 



Showing 2 responses by auxinput

Just finding this thread.  To add more detail, the Loki "wall-wart" is actually just a small transformer.  If you look on the back of the Loki, the power socket says "16 VAC".  This means 16 volts alternating current.  The "wall-wart" transformer just reduces the 120V AC down to 16V AC.  The rest of the linear power supply is inside the Loki.  There have been other electronic devices that are designed this way, but it's very rare.  The good thing here is that the transformer is far away from the Loki and will not produce electromagnetic interference inside the Loki.

So, yes, if you connect a 3rd party "DC" linear power supply, bad things could happen.
@jetter - this assumption is so easy to make because 99% of the time, these small units just use a real "wall-wart" switching power supply so a linear power supply upgrade would work just fine. However, when I look at possible upgrades to linear power supply I always try to examine the rear panel to see what the power requirement is. Usually it’s DC, such as 5V DC or 12VDC or something similar. In very rare cases, it is actually a, AC input (which can use the same barrel plug connector as other DC power supplies).  If there's no print on the rear indicating power supply requirements, then I need to pull out my multi-meter to see what the power adapter is really producing.