Solid core Versus Stranded Speaker cables

Ok for starters I have never tried a solid core Speaker cable until recently. I was very skeptical of the solids performance but I'm glad I tried it. As a matter of fact I tried it and found it to be the best cable I have ever used to date. After much searching, getting opinions from fellow audio enthusiasts and trial and error I happened upon a seller here on Audiogon, JW Audio who offered a 30 day in home trial period with full money returned, no questions asked and took a shot in the dark. That shot hit the bullseye dead center. After receiving the Cryo Nova 12 foot long cables, I was somewhat stunned when I seen the cable, it was nothing like I expected but I connected it anyway. Holy S....t did it make an immediate difference and it keeps getting better. My entire system (Krell) opened up like peeling the skin off a banana. Highs, lows, detail, soundstage, depth, clarity and details that I was missing were revealed. ( and I thought what I had was really outstanding )

Which brings me to the point of this thread. Not knowing what makes a solid core or a stranded speaker cable more desirable aside from the obvious flexibility issues I'm curious to know what my fellow audiocrazies use and why they prefer one over the other or if they even tried both. Anyone willing to give up their opinions on the pros and cons of solid versus stranded speaker cable? I will start that I am a convert to at least this particular solid core speaker wire and unless someone can better it with the 30 day free trial period I do believe it is here to stay.

This is a great thread, and a very good time for me to stumble on it. I have been into this hobby for 50 years, and of all the aspects of it, my favorite is cables. Interconnects,  speaker cables and to a much lesser extent power cords. I have gone from zip cords, to monsters, AC, Tara labs, Purist Audio, and many more i can't remember,  not to mention the home brews.

I never paid any attention to the solid core or stranded aspect until about ten years ago when I bought a set of Gallo  Acoustics Micros for a small system.
I noticed they came with their own 18g solid core speaker wires that was the recommended wires to use.
I found this very interesting, as I had never seen a simple solid core wire used for speaker wire before, much less recommended by a manufacturer.
So I decided to try it in my other systems, and like others have said, a fog was lifted. 
Since that I have stuck with mostly solid core speaker cables, I have used AQ Rocket 88, then to Tara Labs RSC Prime cables for the past couple years witch I find really nice, very open, detailed and well balanced. The AQ was ok, but much darker and heavier in the bass.

I tried some 12g magnet wire in biwire config, it was good but just too hard to manage. 
I also have solid core and stranded interconnects witch I swap out from time to time, but I fine that speaker cables make a bigger difference. 
Sometimes I just feel like giving my old Monster Reference 2s a try with a different amp or preamp.
For the past few months I been on this Kimber trial again, but this time with the cheaper stuff. I have had Monocles and Heroes, but I have never tried PBJ or 8TC, so I started with the PBJ, from source to amp. Really nice for such a simple basic clean design. Now , last week I saw Kimber place a demo pair of 8ft,  8TC on Ebay at a great price and I just had to try them.
I am still burning them in some more, they are not solid core, but they do sound nice so far. This is what makes this hobby fun.
gillatgh: I am considering trying/using the JW wire after your origional comment/recommendation. 
Presently - I have made my own, twisting 12g solid core copper wire strands together: 4 strands per side (to individually bi-wire
and I was amazed at the sound impovement when I hooked 'um up... I actually found a further improvement when I tried the wires without connectors - I found further clarity in using a bare wire connection!
I am considering sending my home-made speaker cables out to have them cryo-treated (should be about $100 or so including shipping back and forth) or (as I stated above) doing the JW bi-wire without connectors for about $160...