Yes and no. Carefully inspect play surface again if there are any scratches.
Spin-Clean isn't efficient to remove the dirt and you may be even pushing it inside the grove even more.
If I face very dirty record, I use protective plastic 'pancakes' with rear-main automotive seal adhesed on each pancake. So labels are between pancakes clamped and than the record is placed onto the dishwasher with disabled hot water and heater. No detergent is added as well. This method cleaned huge jukebox collection of 7" records. I cut about 4 dozen of those pancakes and used epoxy to adhese Chevy 2500 truck rear-main seals on them(perfect size!).
The only way to get a record completely clean is using a KL Ultrasonic Cleaner, and then when your done, putting the record in a new clean inner sleeve. I have tried a few cleaners and this one is the best one by a long shot, closely followed by the AudioDeske, IMO of course :-)
The record might be pristine and unplayed yet still have ticks & pops. Noise can
be a function of the quality of the vinyl used and/or the pressing. It's not always
due to dirt or wear.
Forgive the long post but maybe as a used record buyer and Spin Clean owner myself, some of the below will help...
I use a Spin Clean and actually find it a pretty effective record cleaning system. Just don't try and clean 50 records with one solution like the Spin Clean people say you can. I usually clean no more than 10 because by that time, you can start to see the dirt settling at the bottom. Time to change the solution to a fresh bath.
I also buy a lot of used records and my number one rule is that I have to inspect it first. So that confines me to record shows and shops and never, never Ebay. You can't take the record out of its jacket and inspect it.
Here is what I learned about buying used records with regards to rice krispies (snap, crackle and pops).
1. Make sure your not confusing it with static.
2. Its often more a case of the vinyl being worn rather than dirty, especially after a good Spin Cleaning.
3. Records, particularly those from the early 70's, were pressed on cheap, recycled vinyl due to the OPEC oil embargo. This exacerbated the problem with records wearing prematurely.
4. Vinyl was the only source and everyone had a turntable so there was a flood a cheap players with equally cheap ceramic cartridges that gouged the crap out of these records.
5. The use of automatic changers or stackers did not help the problem either and Garrard and BSR sold a ton of them. Records slapping down on one another is not a good thing!
So, how do you find good, used records to avoid a lot of the damage that was done? Here are some tips that work for me.
1. Use a Zero Stat along with your cleaning rituals. I find that they really do work especially in the cold, dry climate I live in 6 months of the year. Its a necessity.
2. Carefully remove the used record from its sleeve and inspect it. If there are scratches, pits, or severe warps avoid it. I have found a little dirt of dust is OK, especially if I can blow on the record and it moves off. The Spin Clean will take care of the rest.
3. Look at the label on the record. Does it have a white ring starting to form on the paper label? If so, good sign it was played on a stacker and the ring is from the labels getting slapped together. Avoid it.
3. Not much you can do about an album you really want from the early 70's as most were pressed with the el-cheapo vinyl. Just try and find the best one you can. If you can get a Japanese pressing, 1/2 speed MoFi or Nautilus, your chances of getting a good copy go way up. Most of these types of records were expensive back in the day and usually only audiophiles bought them. So they were played on only very good equipment.
4. Inspect the album jackets. Is a white ring starting to form on each side of the cover? Just like the labels, this is an indication that the records were stored flat, stacked on top of one another for the last 30-40 years. Avoid them. A pristine jacket usually indicates a pretty good record inside as the owner thought enough about both. And probably had very good equipment. If the jacket had the original cellophane on it and the opening was sliced with a razor - even better! I have found several of these and what was inside was like new.
5. Once you score a few using the above guidelines, still give them a bath and bag them in poly lined, anti-static sleeves and discard the paper sleeves as 30 plus years of dirt has accumulated in them. If there are liner notes on the sleeves however, save these but still re-bag the record.
Hope some of the above helps
Thanks for the responses. I do inspect before I buy, but the "white ring" is a new for me to look for.
Usually what I do with all my used records is I first fill the sink with warm soap and water. While the water is running I dip the playing surface in the water and with a large super soft water color brush I use circular motions in both directions to pre wash the lp before I go into the spin clean. Of course I rinse the soap off first. I always dry with super soft cotton towels and then I always use a new anti static sleeves.
As for static, I've never really had an issue, but I live in hot humid louisiana, so static doesn't really present itself.
Yeah, considering where you live, you don't have a static problem. So my guess is the rice krispies come more from worn vinyl than dirt.
Glad to help with the "white ring". It is a telltale indicator that the records were not taken care of, either on the tables they were played on and how they were stored.
Just keep hunting down the best copies of a particular title you can and enjoy the music Brother!
The better the cartridge and arm, the fewer snaps, crackles, etc.
IME, an enzyme-based cleaning solution is the best cure for most snaps, crackles and pops. I have a $2K Loricraft RCM (one of the best) but cleaning with just surfactants ("soap") and rinsing does not remove everything.
The grunge in LP grooves provides a breeding ground for microbial growths. Many of these (or their carcasses) are not easily dissolved by surfactant action alone.
Enzymes, however, are chemically designed to break down organic matter. They will attack and help dissolve stuff that soap and water will not.
Having compared 4 brands, my best results come from AIVS solutions, with their Enzymatic being the most effective for removing snaps/crackles/pops.
BTW, having dissolved all the gunk in the grooves you still need to remove it. A Spin Clean, while economical, will not remove all the grunge-laden liquid before evaporation begins. Allowing the grungy liquid to evaporate leaves the grunge behind, probably broken into smaller particles that may be even harder to remove.
A vacuum-based RCM is the only way to quickly remove grungy fluids before evaporation undoes the work you began with the cleaning steps. You needn't spend $2K, but if truly clean records are your goal, you need to do more than spin.
My experience and $.02...
Some preamps will emphasize ticks and pops as well!
Sometimes the loading on the phono cartridge can help too; a lot depends on what cartridge you have and the phono preamp.
You can get enzyme based cleaning solution at much lower price tag. Once audio comes onto play the price bumps-up 10x at least. It's simply an enzyme based surgical tools cleaner which retails anywhere from $50 to $100 per gallon(check amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=surgical+enzyme+cleaner
1 gallon can clean about 2..3,000 vinyls depending on contamination and it works indeed best.
Ultrasonic cleaners usually consist of an ultrasonic bath.
To fit 12" record size one should retail at $3...500 range depending on width and electric slow-rpm motor or one with reductor. Also you'll need to put together some frame for the motor. Plywood is fastest and cheapest approach to build it.
With ultrasonic cleaner all you need is distilled water, but if vinyls are highly contaminated, I'd purchase one of those enzyme cleaners in smaller quantities if possible. A gallon would be sufficient for 5k vinyls if not more when using an ultrasonic machine.
Dryer is optional especially when using enzyme cleaner. Vinyls will normally dry out with no residue at all, but optionally i'd build one using blower motor and pipes from the hydroponic gardening equipment.
Purchasing separate ultrasonic transducers and SS bath may save you even more since you don't need heater that usually supplied with any ultrasonic bath
hand scrub your records with a disk doctor brush and Audio Intelligence No 15 pre-wash enzymatic. Wipe it dry with a micro fibre towel and use the spin clean with distilled water for a rinse. Dry your record with a clean micro towel and let it dry for twenty minutes in a plastic dish rack. Short of that, buy a better record cleaner.
I also would look for a speaker that has a very flat response in the treble region...an exaggerated treble will only emphasize the issue...and like it or not...noise ...or varying degrees...has always been part of
the listening experience...I buy primarily used wax myself and have had good luck but there is the occasional turkey...some good advice...I also look for a sharp outer ring...all things considered ...this implies little 'handling' of the record was done...which equates to minimal play...also...depending upon scarcity of the LP...buying another copy hopefully improves background noise...
See member "atmasphere" explanation. The cleaning rarely solve pops. All I can say is I have about 3000 vinyl records of which 50% are used. Almost no pops and no RCM anymore. Just brush. If real dirty which none are I would wash by hand. Never heard the idea of sharp edges don't mean to be rude but thought was pretty funny.
As mentioned - results will vary BUT you do need an enzyme solution and a RCM to vacuum away for best results.
I rarely clean records unless they have obvious problems. For the most part I use a dust brush. Ticks and pops are not a problem despite that, although I am careful of the used LPs I buy, and try to take care of them by not handling the playing surfaces, storing them upright, etc.
The audible improvements from thorough record cleaning go well beyond the reduction of clicks and pops. Noise reduction is only the first benefit of cleaning, not the last.
As I've posted numerous times over the years, a completely clean record is (in a sufficiently revealing system) actually *slightly noisier* than a less clean one. Removing the last, thin layer of grunge allows a (sufficiently resolving) stylus to reproduce lower levels of detail, higher order harmonics and the subtlest micro-dynamics... and also any slight irregularities in the vinyl surface. In my system, these are the sonic indicators that a record is entirely free of contaminants and they (or their absence) are very audible.
These things (including irregularities that can cause a subtle groove rush) are masked in every uncleaned record I've ever heard. No record has ever failed to improve in these areas by being properly cleaned. Sometimes the improvement is so shocking that visitors barely believe it's the same record.
If one doesn't hear or care about these things then perhaps cleaning isn't necessary. But some of us can and do. Speaking only for myself, I didn't invest $25-30K in a vinyl front end to hear anything less than all of the music that's in the grooves. Both common sense and proven experience inform me that removing *everything* that could degrade the stylus-groove interface is essential to my enjoyment of the medium.
First did not say record cleaning not a worth while act. What I said is it is not the cause of the snap crackle and pop the author of this post has implied or questioned. What I said was that I have had several RCM's including the loricraft prc 3. I do take vinyl very seriously. Just after years of experimenting and taking quite good care of my vinyl I have found other ways of cleaning and keeping my vinyl clean. If an RCM works for you the best, all the better. I am always looking for a better RCM or better ways of cleaning my vinyl. But, I believe, that cleaning is Just not the issue or cause in this discussion! That was my ONLY point!
The cleaning rarely solve pops.
My experience (owning a similar number of records) is that cleaning with AIVS Enzymatic removes at least 90% of them... much better than "rarely".
The remainder are probably due to flawed or damaged vinyl. I don't have static problems, so can't speak to how often that's a problem for those who do.
Fully agree with Atmasphere that the phono stage makes a huge difference in the ability to avoid over-amplifying sudden transients.
Machines like VPI work and ultrasonic too.
They remove most of the noise if not all. I had experience cleaning scratched records and they reduced the noise very significantly.
After VPI cleaning Go Champs Go record with surface full of scratches, it plays so clean that some songs I played at the radio station
Here's a solution, send me a couple of these albums that you say "snap crackle and pop" and I will play and record them for sound and video on my TT set up. Obviously they are no good to you so what's your risk but I will then send them back once recorded. Don't send any with serious or obvious defects. Are you Game?