SME 30/2 Controller


Looking to get some questions answered regarding a 2004 30/2 turntable. The controller has the knob instead of push buttons and I believe it to be the 2nd generation as the box is longer format. Does the latest controller work with the existing motor?

 The O-Rings are original and the table has been in the box unused since 2009. Is a belt and new rings needed because of age?

 The platter is the mustard/green color but it seems that it was not a change other than color.

 If anyone knows pricing please enlighten me!

 Thanks for any help.

hifipf

Showing 5 responses by geof3

As long as it was put away properly, all the posts closed and locked, belt removed etc, they should be fine. The O-rings are very simple to remove and replace if necessary. Pretty sure you can find them out there if needed. I would definitely replace the drive belt though. Why do you want to change the control module? If it functions properly, there isn’t much reason to swap it, unless there are aesthetic issues. I’ve talked to SME directly a couple of times. I would call, they are usually very responsive. You should be able to order anything you need with a request.

One drop. You need the SME oil. There should be a parts kit in the box with all the goodies. Damping fluid, tools, oil etc. You’ll need the setup templates and tools to properly dial in your arm and cart. The V isn’t terribly hard to setup, but the proper setup tools really are a must. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen the oil syringes and tools on Music Direct. You can order all of this through SME. Look at EBay too, sometimes you’ll see tools and what/not there.

The tower gaps as set with the tool provided simply set the upper platform level with an optimal “stretch” on the elastomers of the system. All the fluid in the pots do is help damp any bounce that might occur. This is unlikely as the unit should be placed on a fairly substantial platform. The towers are not “shocks” where the internals are charged to provide rebound etc. the shock absorption comes from the elastomers. Overall, the height of the towers do not matter in the overall use of the table. However, they should not be able to bottom out the elastomers, nor should they be set so the elastomers don’t have much tension. Otherwise, they cannot do their job properly. Be sure to set the height with the table fully assembled platter installed and arm of choice installed to assure proper level on the upper plinth.

Regarding the damping of the V tonearm, that is entirely different and has nothing to do with the isolation of the platform. Some don’t run damping fluid in the tonearm reservoir at all, I’ve tried it both ways and prefer to damp the tonearm. It seems to give the arm more presence and body. YMMV.

The V damping fluid is a fairly viscus silicone gel stuff (for lack of a better description). It’s really not a big deal to use/install. I had a syringe of it anyway, so it wasn’t any additional cost for me. The only time it can be a pain is if you spill any, or maybe spill when moving the table/arm. It’s a b1tch to clean up for sure. In terms of preference overall to each their own. It certainly isn’t “required”.

Regarding the clamp on or off the table, I don’t really think it’s a big deal either way. The clamp is fairly heavy and it might change the level a bit but enough to make it an issue? Doubt it. When I set up mine I’m pretty sure the clamp was on, but I honestly don’t remember. I’m not sure where the manual mentioned anything about the clamp relative to the tower adjustment. I might have simply shined it at the time.