Call Thiel, they have "one".
Call Thiel, they have "one".
I use 2 Velodyne SPLR 8s - less than 12" cube. They're quite good, but from my research it seems that small subs always trade some performance for size at any given price point. Thus, the SVS subs at $600 per offer much better performance on overall key specs (extention, distortion AND group delay) than any small sub at any price. Now, can you hear the difference? That one I can't help you with.
PS - the little REL subs test well for group delay ("fast") but pretty horribly on extention and distortion.
if you can fit a jl audio fantum 112, it is the best sub out ther in what I cansider a small size. Trouble is a sub has to move air which by definition means some size. JL cheats a little since they have one of the longest throughs on the market. I also like velodyne alot. Personally I don't do small subs I never found one that wasn't to much of a compromise. the f112 is the smallest I would go.
I know the JBL L8400 isn't a brand name to deserve to be mentioned here but I'm curious if anyone has experienced with it? If possible, how is it (in many aspects) compare with the MiniVee?
I'm too looking for a small subwoofer (in CHERRY color) mainly for music. My room size is 16x16x8.
What's your room size?
I hate small subs. My sunfire actually danced around when pushed hard. To get good performance out of a tiny box is hard. Also, even though they are small, it doesn't mean that you can just "hide" it. Shoving it in a corner or under something else will hurt the sound.
I had much better sound out of an 8" energy than the sunfire. The energy didn't try to compensate for lack of size or power. However, once going to a 15" velodyne, I'll never go back.
Good point for your sub you need to consider room volume H x W x D = cu ft. This is important you need a big enought sub to pressureise the room or it will be point less, actually you shouldn't determine the sub size the room should. Also you need a big enought cone to get the low notes 21 hrtz is usally good watch the specs on small subs they just never sound deep to me ot the ones that get that low have big distortion at volume. Last there is a guy you may want to google craig's subs he seems to of dedicated his life to nothing but testing subs.
MJ Acoustic. Small, somewhat powerful, depending on which one you purchase, and they go very low. I'm running two Reference 150 Mk IIs. The power is rated at 150 watts and they go down to 13 Hz at -3db. Dimensions are 11.8"W X 14"H X 11.8D. They are made by the original crew that made Rel in the UK before Rel moved their manufacturing to China. They are very easy to set up. You can find more info through the industry directory here on the 'Gon.........John
PMC TLE1 has dual 6 1/2 inch drivers and a flat frequency response down to 22Hz. It's not a square box but a slim rectangular box that may fit your criteria of being small. It pumps out quality bass with the internal Bryston amps rated at 150W and totally kills my Dali SWA-12 with a 12" driver. Big drivers don't necessarily guarantee better quality bass or the ability to go lower down the frequency ladder.
This is for those that suggested the Mini-vee. Is it musical? Consider I have set it in perfect condiction such location, room design, x-over, etc., will I be able to hear all diff notes from the Bass guitar or the double bass instrument?
In theory, 2000 watts is a lot of power, therefore, its coil, suspension foam, and all other material ought to be firm and hard which describe a little favor to HT category; big power for shaking the ground.
A simple good, great, or highly recommend suggestion is left some doubt in me to pull the trigger.
Has anyone tried the Mosscade subs?
It depends on your room size as much as anything. I use a Martin Logan Dynamo, which is a one foot cube and has a 10" driver. It works very well for two channel purposes, but it would never work in my HT setup, where I use the much larger ML Depth(i). There are many variables, i.e. crossover points, etc. that must be dealt with. I just run my Merlin monitors full range and have the Dynamo fill in underneath the Merlin's lowest rated frequency. This method works very well in MY system. However, if your goal is to use a crossover point above your monitors lowest frequency, the integration becomes much trickier. If this is your goal, I would suggest the velodyne subs (SPL class and higher) that have built in EQ.
I'll back up what Cruz123 has to say...
I have (2) ML Dynamos in my system and love them. They have a variable crossover point down to 30 Hz and can be run at speaker-level. I definately agree that these are not "HT Subs", but they work very well for 2-channel. The larger ML subs are nice, too, as well as REL subs.