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Thanks everyone for the responses.
Jamnesta, I contacted soundocity.com last week, and their cheaper option (non-custom) still added up to about 40% what I paid for the speakers not long ago, so I'm still looking for a cheaper option.
Infection - Are these available in a cryo-treated option? Haha.
bdp24 - I'll do some research on that avenue. I'm hoping to stay <$100.
Good luck Guitared, I'm sure you'll come up with something for your speakers that's cost effective. I have little experience outside of the spikes I was provided with my speakers, but your post brings up an interesting quandary. Couple to the floor with spikes or decouple from the floor via the Townsend or some other method as suggested by Infection & bdp24. I imagine that's been debated endlessly here and elsewhere.....
A DIY version of the Seismic Bars could be a pair of Baltic Birch plywood shelves separated by a very slightly inflated bicycle tire in between them. With a trio of roller bearings between the speaker and top shelf you will have excellent isolation without the non-linear filtering caused by "lossy" materials (rubber of any type).
I've added spikes into threaded inserts, but I've also ordered DIY roller bearing setups. The latter will likely end up being used to isolate my components since I'd prefer to reduce the risk of a loudspeaker getting toppled over (baby on the way!), but I plan on tinkering with both. Thanks again everyone for the feedback!
After getting the speakers up on the spikes I had a quite significant drop in sound quality, particularly in the low-end. I have suspended hardwood floors, and it turns out I'm suffering the same side-effects from coupling seen by many others. I should have done more research...
I've got them up on ball bearings in furniture floor cups now (spikes removed), and I am hearing a great improvement. I'm going to throw some stone tiles between the bearings and the spikes soon, then probably bump up to some vibrapods or feet/isolated spike cups from Herbie's audio labs.
Infection, I wish I would have investigated the Townshend website further instead of just joking about the price of the seismic bars! They have a great video that explains the benefits of isolation vs. coupling, and I would have initially gone in a very different direction!
Hi BDP, I've done exactly that with each of my components and could not believe the improvement they made. I'm using marble tiles instead of plywood, it was actually cheaper! I also have marble tiles under the speakers and above the homemade rollers presently, and every aspect of the sound has been improved over just spikes on the hardwood. I'm a little unsure about adding the inner tube under the speakers for stability reasons; the system is in a living room and I'm worried someone (or some dog) will knock them over.
Has anyone tried this with a more traditional floor standing speaker? I may get 2 more tiles and try sandwiching the tube or rollers between them. The cabinets are rectangular so I need the tiles to allow placement of the rollers in an equilateral triangle.
The Ingress are the best deal around in roller bearings. He now offers a version made to Barry Diament’s specs: a highly-polished single cup made of 7075 aluminum, with a large diameter, shallow bowl (the result of machining the shape of the bowl to follow the curve of a very small section of a very large sphere) to achieve a very low mechanical filter corner frequency (of around 3 Hz), and 3/8" ball bearing. $90 for a set of three, half the price of the Symposium Acoustics Roller Block Jr’s, and of a superior design.
I've just about accepted the fact that I'm getting two sets of three Seismic Pods to put under the Sound Anchor stands my ET LFT-8b's are on. About $800-$900, but justified by the degree of improved sound (or so I've been lead to believe ;-).
guitared, You should go under your house, find the area to support with bottle jacks and 4x4's. (or equivalent), After this, (if needed),you may look at look at other options above.
(All of this will keep you under your $100.00 target... I'll make a bet that it will be the ticket...just requires some effort.)
Be careful if there made of press board. Threads are a good idea (already mentioned). There are several good options. If you send me a PM I will show you something I came up with for ye old English towers. It widened stance and has them firmly planted. It made a sound improvement.
One option thats OK. If your going to go right into the cabs cut some 1/4" pieces to bond to the bottom, and uses spikes with wood screw type threads on opposing ends. IMO this is more durable than some of the other options.
The main reason I like (spikes), it allows me to fine tune speaker placement which I find to be critical. If you don't feel a need to drain vibrations away, the Vibrapods may be one solution. Some may have monitors that allow this adjustment to be made between the speaker and the stand.
I've found that with suspended wooden floors, there will be (out of level) floor issues that require a more thoughtful approach that may include having several methods of adjustability.