Be real careful, the eleven bands are centered at each warble tone, so wandering around looking for peaks and valleys not centered on the center point of a filter is asking for trouble.
You aren NOT trying to make the room 100% flat, but to dampen the peaks and valley responses to a smaller value. In essence cut each peak down, but it is still there to a much smaller degree. So a 6dB peak is 3dB and a 2 dB peak is 1 db ETC. This doesn't make the speaker fight the natural room effect so the EQ is much more capable overall.
Also, try to set-up your speakers reference volume to CUT and not BOOST most of the eleven bands / sound issues. Notice that the CUT range is higher than the boost range on the dials. This is trying to tell you something! This is very important. You can cut a peak, but it is a fool's game to fill a hole if a few dB of boost don't do it (leave the position at 12 o'clock if the boost seems to have no effect). So you will succed or fail to optimize based on the initial sound SPL you use as your reference. Quick run through all the tones with FLAT (at 12 o'clock) settings and look at the dB values. Start at about 70dB "center" point but don't go much higher or lower than 65 or 75 dB. Somewhere in there more values will be "high" with fewer "low". So adjust the volume till more settings are PEAKS than dips. When you are all done, you can adjust the overall gain to suit your bass "level", which lifts ALL the bass to the same dgeree (like a shelf). The Q adjust is the "slam" / tight or "mush" / bloom factor. I used 7 most all the time (deepest linear bass setting).
I find the job MUCH easier with a digital SPL meter set to slow and the "C" weight (flat). Nothing is happening fast with the tones, and it damps out random room noise so the reading is more steady.
Also, grab a buddy to turn the dial while someone else reads the meter from your normal seating position and manages the tracks being played. They could be longer, so you might have to run through one a few times as you learn. When you are 100% good at this, you can do it on your own.
You aren't calibrating the random click on the CD, but the warble tone. This isn't music, get over it. The clicks are inconsequential to the task at hand.
You aren NOT trying to make the room 100% flat, but to dampen the peaks and valley responses to a smaller value. In essence cut each peak down, but it is still there to a much smaller degree. So a 6dB peak is 3dB and a 2 dB peak is 1 db ETC. This doesn't make the speaker fight the natural room effect so the EQ is much more capable overall.
Also, try to set-up your speakers reference volume to CUT and not BOOST most of the eleven bands / sound issues. Notice that the CUT range is higher than the boost range on the dials. This is trying to tell you something! This is very important. You can cut a peak, but it is a fool's game to fill a hole if a few dB of boost don't do it (leave the position at 12 o'clock if the boost seems to have no effect). So you will succed or fail to optimize based on the initial sound SPL you use as your reference. Quick run through all the tones with FLAT (at 12 o'clock) settings and look at the dB values. Start at about 70dB "center" point but don't go much higher or lower than 65 or 75 dB. Somewhere in there more values will be "high" with fewer "low". So adjust the volume till more settings are PEAKS than dips. When you are all done, you can adjust the overall gain to suit your bass "level", which lifts ALL the bass to the same dgeree (like a shelf). The Q adjust is the "slam" / tight or "mush" / bloom factor. I used 7 most all the time (deepest linear bass setting).
I find the job MUCH easier with a digital SPL meter set to slow and the "C" weight (flat). Nothing is happening fast with the tones, and it damps out random room noise so the reading is more steady.
Also, grab a buddy to turn the dial while someone else reads the meter from your normal seating position and manages the tracks being played. They could be longer, so you might have to run through one a few times as you learn. When you are 100% good at this, you can do it on your own.
You aren't calibrating the random click on the CD, but the warble tone. This isn't music, get over it. The clicks are inconsequential to the task at hand.